D60 front (and 14-bolt too) under my 93 p/u

[AlaskaToy]

Did this last summer but never really detailed what I did to make it work. Now this swap is almost cliche these days, but the exact method varies.

My dana 60 came from an 89 GMC 1-ton crew cab that suffered a dash fire. Got the truck for cheap.

For the swap, I started with my own 93 toyota extra cab which I'd already done an SAS on using a Toyota axle and the All-Pro SAS kit. The allpro kit moves the front forward to extend the wheelbase by 1.5". I tried some 15/38.5 Boggers on this setup and found 1.5" was nowhere near enough. I had the fortune of meeting up with fellow Toy enthusiast and master welder 85Toyflatbed. He not only gave me space to work while I was 385 miles from home, he fed me warm mountain dew and expertly welded on a 3.5" extension and 2" drop hanger reusing my Allpro hanger. Thanks again, bud. BTW, he asked nothing for it, just wanted to help out a fellow wheeler. But as a lesson to all, I made sure he took some monetary compensation for his help.

The Toy axle and AP kit are setup for a 29" perch width. The Dana 60 perches are 31.5 inches apart. I did not want to narrow it.

Since i did not want to narrow the axle and the pass side perch is integrated to the housing on the GM 60, I had to outboard the leafs 1.25" per side.  For the front, I simply cut off the all pro hanger (again) and cut it in half.  I located each half 1.25" outboard of their previous locations.  Easy; here's what it looks like after I split the hanger:

First step.


With the ends gusseted.

[AlaskaToy]

I also had to make the shackles match the perch width.  The Allpro widebody shackles that were there, hung from a through-the-frame tube, incorperated straight shackles made of 3/8"x2" bar with 3/4 spacers on either side of the spring eye.  I mulled over several ways to space the inner shackle plate 1.25" while making another outer shackle plate.  There are several solutions.  The one I chose was to make a new inner using 3/8"x 2" bar and a spacer made from 2" square tube.  The 2" square tube minus the Allpro 3/4" spacer got me exactly the 1.25" I needed.  For the outer shackle plate, I used an old Daystar rear shackle I had (also 2"x3/8") that had a bend in it.  It lacked the 3/4" spacer of the Allpro unit and the bend offset it by an additional half inch; again 1.25".  Perfect.  Springs were hung from the front and rear using 3/4" hardware.

Crappy shackle pic, sorry:


Steering was a lesson in frugality (or cheapness) vs. hassle.  In an affort to save money (wrong approach) I thought I'd reuse the tie rod and sleeve the GMC draglink and only have to buy a pass side arm.  So I got an arm from Rockstomper.  I had Scott drill it for the draglink ends I intended to reuse.  Note: GM draglink ends have the same taper but are thicker than the tie rod ends.  So by having my arm drilled for for draglink ends, I'd be stuck with that since I could never make the hole smaller to fit a tie rod end.

When I realized the tierod ends were tired and the draglink ends were worse, I knew I blew it.  So I called ORD and got their HD tierod and TREs and ordered a draglink taking into account at least the pass arm end would have to be a GM draglink end which I sourced form Napa.  The pitman arm end I chosse to go with one of ORD's LH thread TRE.  The pitman arm is a SkyMfg unit that had a toyota taper, so I reamed it out with a Snap-On taper reamer to fit the LH TRE into.

The arm from Rockstomper was only $100 bucks; one reason I bought it (the other was to combine the shipping with the brake stuff I ordered from him at the same time).  It is designed to fit over the knuckle spring cap and be bolted on.  Even though I was assured bolts were fine, my knowledge of Toyota knuckle design made me wary of the bolts.  So, I moved the studs used on the drivers side J arm to the pass side using threadlocker, then tried to slide the arm over them.  It wouldn't go.  The studs are thicker in the center where they are not threaded.  So I measured the thickness and began an exhaustive search in Fairbanks for a 17/32 drill bit to open the arm holes up to slip over the studs.  I finally found one at Denali Fastener.  After I opened holes in the arm, I beveled the tops on the holes with a 60 degree taper bit so the factory taper nuts would seat properly.

Draglink angle is very mild.  No bump steer.  You can also see the Pass side arm from Rockstomper (well almost :rolleyes: ). 

[AlaskaToy]

ok,

The front leaf packs were  47" long all-pro packs.  Since the extended hanger 85toyflatbed melted on for me, I have gone to another custom leaf pack based on 51" rears from 89 and up third gen toyota pickups.  The 51" spring over the 47s is, combined with the 3.5" forward spring hanger takes the front axle forward a total of 5" from stock.
The current pack is made up of the main and mil-wrap leaf from pack 51", a cut leaf form an earlier toy rear, the 3rd leaf from a toy 51" pack, and the bottom 3 leafs from form the all-pro pack.  The current setup allow more wrap than I I think is acceptable.  In addition, max compression on the pass side is limited by the draglink contacting the frame.  Both of thes issues I hope to clear up by building thicker, flatter leaf packs with more leaf meat between the axle and the front hanger.  Here you can see the draglink hitting the frame.



To further preclude draglink-frame contact, I have a set of Timbren Aeon Springs (bumpstops) on the way from Blackjack at Six States in Soldotna.

One more...

[guywithuglyyota]

That thing is moving right along! Any updates?   

[h0nke]

Man that's awesome. I wish I knew someone who could do these sorts of mods so I could learn from them.

[AlaskaToy]

Latest pointless update.  I put on some 35s for street use.  Movers showed up today with my street tires I had been storing in CA.

quick pic





Seriously need to address front spring wrap.  Its BAD.

Also still waiting (impatiently) for the rumored release of the 14 bolt 5.38s...

...need to regear and lock both ends.

Disc brake swap on the rear going in next few weekends

[AlaskaToy]

How about a frontal shot?  How bad to the tires stick out with the 5" back spaced wheels?  Thanks!!

Sure.  BTW, I think the H2s are 5.5" BS.

14bff in the rear? Did you have to run the 1.5" Spacers in the rear?

Yes, 14bff.  No spacers in the rear.  Rear is 67" wms-wms, front is 69.5"; close enough. :cool2:

[AlaskaToy]

How much of an offset does the allpro outer shackle have? I would like to try to go through the frame with my shackles rather than outboard them. Thanks

The AP shackles are gone completely.  The outer is a remant if a Daystar rear shackle with about .5" offset due to the bend.  It allows the spring to be outboard 1.25" from where the AP shackle with it's .75" spacer *used* to be.  Clear as mud??

currently using rockstomper's m/c and adapter.  Using the stock prop valve with stock 1-ton fronts and drum rears.  Rears suck, even with the propvalve all the way up, but honestly they may be out of adjustment too.  As it stands now, the pedal has too much travel for my liking, but it does stop the truck with no trouble at all.  I hope pedal firms up with the new rear calipers vs the old drums.  But I am aware the stock 1-ton d60 front calipers may be a bit much for the rockstomper 3/4 ton m/c.  I kept all the hydro brake stuff from the donor truck in case the 'stomp m/c proves insufficient.

[Rocksurfer]

Very nice job, and I like the sticker on your hood

[gotrocks]

need more closeups, and hey what tires you going to run offroad

[AlaskaToy]

need more closeups, and hey what tires you going to run offroad

what closeups would you like to see?  I can try to do that, just let me know what you want pix of.

I have a set of OMF-locked H2s, but haven't committed to an offroad tire yet; I am currently divided between the 15x39.5-17 TSl and the 42-14-17 Irok.  Opinions?

[1Bad4Runner]

I'd take the TSL over the Irok, but 42 is a nice number

[uglyota]

any pics of the bumpstops?  What model did you use?

[AlaskaToy]

any pics of the bumpstops?  What model did you use?

No pix.  They are not installed yet.  They are Timbren AEON Rubber Springs and can be found at www.timbren.com http://www.timbren.com/Aeon/aeon/tim_aeon.htm  I got the A520-75

[whiteman]

Great looking truck, looks real beefy with that 60 under the front.  I would vote for the 39.5 TSL

[IronClad]

irok~!  that  40" tsl for the 17" rim runs small  42" iroks man!

[AlaskaToy]

irok~!  that  40" tsl for the 17" rim runs small  42" iroks man!

The 39.5 TSL runs small?  I saw this thread on PBB and was convinced otherwise...http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350697

[whiteman]

TSL's have more tread depth as well.  I would be more supportive of he I-rock but the tread just doesn't please me.

[uglyota]

No pix. They are not installed yet. They are Timbren AEON Rubber Springs and can be found at www.timbren.com http://www.timbren.com/Aeon/aeon/tim_aeon.htm I got the A520-75

thanks...how did you go about choosing that application?  I have absolutely no idea how much dynamic force is going to come down on my bumpstops with the springs at full stuff and whatnot, and I can't afford to use trial and error...

[IronClad]

weird.. JackA  was sayin his were smaller than his last  fodees which were for a 15" rims... *shrug*

[AlaskaToy]

thanks...how did you go about choosing that application?  I have absolutely no idea how much dynamic force is going to come down on my bumpstops with the springs at full stuff and whatnot, and I can't afford to use trial and error...

I didn't get too scientific.  I copied someone elses choice.  brook green, "bgreen" on www.pirate4x4.com and www.alaska4x4network.com uses the same set on the rear of his buggy.  I plan to have the stops contact the axle early on compression, to give a progressive spring rate increase/bumpstop action.

a pic:

[AlaskaToy]

weird.. JackA  was sayin his were smaller than his last  fodees which were for a 15" rims... *shrug*

That sucks; makes me nervous about buying mail order.  I may need to pick them up in person just to verify the size due to the "interco variance factor"  Thanks for the heads-up.

[AlaskaToy]

TSL's have more tread depth as well.

True, but only 1/32";  TSLs are 25/32 and the Iroks are 24/32

[uglyota]

I didn't get too scientific. I copied someone elses choice. brook green, "bgreen" on www.pirate4x4.com and www.alaska4x4network.com uses the same set on the rear of his buggy. I plan to have the stops contact the axle early on compression, to give a progressive spring rate increase/bumpstop action.

a pic:

cool deal, thanks

[Shamb]

nice rig, i am envious of any D60'd Toyota... thats my ultimate goal.

[AlaskaToy]

Last Sunday I got to try on some 42 Iroks.  I think I may have decided on my next tire...







Fender will require some trimming but they cleared the inner fender well, bumper, and springs just fine.  What do you think?  Or should I go conservative and get the 39.5/15-17 TSLs?  (apparantly they run at about 37.5" compared to the 41.5" Iroks )

[CTENG in KS]

TRIM...Bigger is BETTER!

[IronClad]

trim!  the 42s look sick

[gotrocks]

yeah deffinatly the 42's.  That my dream tire and I'm glad i can see now how freakishly huge they'll look on a toyota

[gotrocks]

btw what size wheel are though on.  they look like 17's but how wide and what ths b/s on them