Topic: Driveline Hardware Question

[Dr Phat]

So Im in a little bit of a pickle but cant figure out what hardware is going to work with my drivehsafts. Standrard Toyota its M10x1.0, Tom Woods uses slightly extended length M10x1.25 bolts. However I also have an E-Brake kit from Skys offroad, their rotor is drilled and tapped for M10x1.0. Standard hardware wont fit because the heads wont clear the CV joint. Sky does not recommend drilling out the threads on the rotor and I cannot find anyone that makes a M10x1.0 flange bolt. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas?

[lone walker]

There's a sh1t ton of stuff that is not recommended. I don't see an issue drilling it and putting a nut behind it. The rotor is still held in place.

[RUGER]

id use factory driveshaft bolts from toyota. ive used some metric bolts/bolts from the hardware store but they come loose while the factory stuff stays tight. of course keep some as backup fer trail fixes.

RUGER

[OVRAROK]

How about clocking the rotor, drill and tap.

[Dr Phat [OP]]

How about clocking the rotor, drill and tap.

That would probably be the best permanent solution but most of my tools are in storage right now and its a pain to remove the rotor without making it a bigger project.

id use factory driveshaft bolts from toyota. ive used some metric bolts/bolts from the hardware store but they come loose while the factory stuff stays tight. of course keep some as backup fer trail fixes.

RUGER

I agree! However with the thicker flange of the driveshaft from Tom Woods plus the extra ~6mm from the rotor that wont work unfortunately.

There's a sh1t ton of stuff that is not recommended. I don't see an issue drilling it and putting a nut behind it. The rotor is still held in place.

Agreed! It looks like All Pros rotor is just drilled, going to call to confirm. Not sure how Marlins old kit use to work. I dont see how you could properly torque the hardware down if they are essentially double nutted as well with a tapped rotor. Im leaning towards drilling the threads out and just using some red loctite on the nuts then clock, drill, and tap the rotor when I can if I get any issues from the hardware and "floating" rotor.

[mudmaster]

My AP one was just a hole through the rotor with bolts and nuts they supplied with the kit.

[Dr Phat [OP]]

My AP one was just a hole through the rotor with bolts and nuts they supplied with the kit.

Im leaning towards just drilling them out, but want to make sure there arent any other options before I make a "permanent" adjustment.

[mudmaster]

https://belmetric.com/m10x1-0-extra-fine-din-960-961-hex-bolts-10-9/

[Dr Phat [OP]]

https://belmetric.com/m10x1-0-extra-fine-din-960-961-hex-bolts-10-9/

The head on them is 17mm so the head will interfere with the CV joint yet alone be able to get a socket around it.

[OVRAROK]

If you know the length, you may be able to call toyota.

[mudmaster]

The head on them is 17mm so the head will interfere with the CV joint yet alone be able to get a socket around it.

I always had to use two wrenches. Can you get away with a smaller head or drill it to standard?

[Dr Phat [OP]]

I always had to use two wrenches. Can you get away with a smaller head or drill it to standard?

A smaller head would work but finding a specialty bolt is going to be the hard part. If I’m drilling it out I’ll just use the bolts that came with the Tom Woods shaft. I have a some 30mm and 40mm long socket heads coming. Hoping I can get a bite on them and torque them down. We shall see!

[OVRAROK]

A smaller head would work but finding a specialty bolt is going to be the hard part. If I’m drilling it out I’ll just use the bolts that came with the Tom Woods shaft. I have a some 30mm and 40mm long socket heads coming. Hoping I can get a bite on them and torque them down. We shall see!

Report back, as this may help the next guy in line with this problem.

[Dr Phat [OP]]

So the socket heads I found work great. Head really isn’t big enough to interfere and used OEM nuts to secure them. I ordered both the 30mm flavor and 40mm flavor but the 30mm was more than enough to pass through the drive shaft flange, output flange, and brake rotor. Link below in case anyone else needs something in the future. In order to torque them I put an 8mm key on them, then used an 8mm deep well socket on a 3/8” extension. Had to roll the truck back and forth in order the get the right alignment but it was easy enough.

https://www.mcmaster.com/96144A263/

[D3vilduck]

I second the socket heads. They can be a pain because you need another tool but they get the job done.