Topic: 3vz to 3rz couple of questions

[SnailPowered3RZ]

Currently have a 1986 SAS'd standard cab Toyota Pickup powered by a turbo-ed 3RZ on 10 psi. Things it has:
-HP elocker in the front
-Elocker in the rear
- 2.28x4.7 dual cases
- 3rz with turbo
- 2 inches of lift
- 37x12.5 wranglers
- missing something Im sure of it

So finally onto my question, I found a cheap 1988 extended cab Toyota pickup that I want to swap everything on my truck over to because I'm tall and don't fit so well in my standard cab anymore. Problem is its a 3.slow. I know that I have to move the motor mounts that's not big deal. My question is the wiring any different for the dash harness then when I did it for the conversion for the 22r to 3rz?

[redneckcustoms13]

The last 3vz to 22re swap I did I just plugged the 3vz dash harness into the 22re ecm. All gauges and dash functions worked. Had to adjust tach though.

[SnailPowered3RZ [OP]]

Awesome thanks for the info, I was hoping the dash harness was the same. I don't see why it wouldn't be. What did you do for the tach I had to run a 10ohm resister for the 3rz anyways.

[redneckcustoms13]

The v6 gauge cluster should have an adjustment screw behind the tach. What year 3rz are you running? I know my 83 cluster and a 2nd gen are different but my tach is reading properly with no resistor as mine is a 96 engine with a distributor.

[SnailPowered3RZ [OP]]

I'm currently running a 2000 3rz, so twin coils I needed the 10 ohm resister to make the tach work for the 4 cylinder gauge. With the balance shaft removed.

[SnailPowered3RZ [OP]]

I'm glad I found a 2tr bellhousing for cheap at a local yard, its going to have a sweet tranny behind it when im done hopefully.

[redneckcustoms13]

R151f?

[SnailPowered3RZ [OP]]

No lol. I wish I had money for that. Its just gonna be a one fiddy f

[zippo]

So the 5vz is a bolt in swap for the 3vz. Then just buy a harness. Done!

[SnailPowered3RZ [OP]]

So the 5vz is a bolt in swap for the 5vz. Then just buy a harness. Done!

no the truck is currently a 3vz and I want to swap over everything from my 3rz pickup because its an extended cab

[Phazertwo]

I'm in the middle of this right now (3VZ to 3RZ)...  So far this is what I have learned, that I didn't find much info on.

-The 2TR bell does work with a 3VZ version of the R150... not the 5VZ R150.  However it pushes the sifters back ~3" (put my dual case shifters in my center counsel...), and you don't really get full engagment of the input in the pilot bearing. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101408.0 <- that's my fix for it.

- Sock fuel lines from the 3VZ are on the wrong frame rail, and the tank is on the wrong side of the truck... You can run a big hose across the fire wall, but the factory lines are really close to the 3RZ down pipe... to close for me.  Most people move them, but I had a hard time figuring out where they moved them too.  I spent a crazy amount of time bending and routing and re-routing lines until I was happy.

-Computer mounting, again not much info out there.  I was able to mount the 3RZ computer in the factory 3VZ location, but upside down.  I sill need to figure out how to keep crap from falling into the connectors.  I was also able to remove the firewall grommet from my 3VZ harness and get it on the 3RZ harness... liberal amounts of WD-40 were needed, but it stretched over the connectors and went in the factory engine harness hole.

- The wiring from year to year seems to be quite different, make sure you have the correct info for your build.  I highly suggest getting the factory wiring book for both trucks, I think I paid $20ea and it has been money well spent.  With the books the wiring is very straight forward.

I originally went into this because my 3VZ had a bad head gasket and I wanted more space in the engine compartment (which is important for turbos...).  Remember you can save A LOT of time by going with a 5VZ...

PZ

[SnailPowered3RZ [OP]]

I'm in the middle of this right now (3VZ to 3RZ)...  So far this is what I have learned, that I didn't find much info on.

-The 2TR bell does work with a 3VZ version of the R150... not the 5VZ R150.  However it pushes the sifters back ~3" (put my dual case shifters in my center counsel...), and you don't really get full engagment of the input in the pilot bearing. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101408.0 <- that's my fix for it.

- Sock fuel lines from the 3VZ are on the wrong frame rail, and the tank is on the wrong side of the truck... You can run a big hose across the fire wall, but the factory lines are really close to the 3RZ down pipe... to close for me.  Most people move them, but I had a hard time figuring out where they moved them too.  I spent a crazy amount of time bending and routing and re-routing lines until I was happy.

-Computer mounting, again not much info out there.  I was able to mount the 3RZ computer in the factory 3VZ location, but upside down.  I sill need to figure out how to keep crap from falling into the connectors.  I was also able to remove the firewall grommet from my 3VZ harness and get it on the 3RZ harness... liberal amounts of WD-40 were needed, but it stretched over the connectors and went in the factory engine harness hole.

- The wiring from year to year seems to be quite different, make sure you have the correct info for your build.  I highly suggest getting the factory wiring book for both trucks, I think I paid $20ea and it has been money well spent.  With the books the wiring is very straight forward.

I originally went into this because my 3VZ had a bad head gasket and I wanted more space in the engine compartment (which is important for turbos...).  Remember you can save A LOT of time by going with a 5VZ...

PZ

I have a 2TR bellhousing and I want to use an R150 for my turbo 3rz, so the only thing you did was get the 14mm pilot bearing?

Fuel lines aren't a problem as I am running a 25 gallon fuel cell.

The 5vz would be easier but I am literally swapping my completed 1986 standard cab pickup with the turboed 3rz over to a 3vz extended cab lol.

[Phazertwo]

Yes, I used the 14mm bearing, and I think it will be fine.  I miss understood, I thought you were tearing apart a standard cab taco, it should be pretty straight forwared if you have done it in an older truck.

I don't think the tach will be as easy as plug and play, but like I said it seems there is quite a bit of variation between the different years, at least as far as wiring goes.

PZ

[OOPS]

Move the computer up behind the glove box, gets it out of harms way and there is plenty of wiring!!

[redneckcustoms13]

Might be a silly question. Have you considered just doing the cab swap?

[SnailPowered3RZ [OP]]

Yes, I used the 14mm bearing, and I think it will be fine.  I miss understood, I thought you were tearing apart a standard cab taco, it should be pretty straight forwared if you have done it in an older truck.

I don't think the tach will be as easy as plug and play, but like I said it seems there is quite a bit of variation between the different years, at least as far as wiring goes.

PZ

I was mainly worried about the dash harness off the 3vz-fe extended cab truck. I did the swap in my single cab that was originally a 22r

For the tach I just had to do the 10 ohm resister in the cluster

[SnailPowered3RZ [OP]]

Yes, I used the 14mm bearing, and I think it will be fine.  I miss understood, I thought you were tearing apart a standard cab taco, it should be pretty straight forwared if you have done it in an older truck.

I don't think the tach will be as easy as plug and play, but like I said it seems there is quite a bit of variation between the different years, at least as far as wiring goes.

PZ

thanks for the info on the 14 mm pilot bearing though!

[SnailPowered3RZ [OP]]

Move the computer up behind the glove box, gets it out of harms way and there is plenty of wiring!!

I like that spot! Didn't even think of that spot when I originally did mine

[SnailPowered3RZ [OP]]

Might be a silly question. Have you considered just doing the cab swap?

Yes this has been a great debate of mine. Currently I have an all pro offroad flat bed welded on which I'm afraid would look like if I had to cut and re-weld to compensate for the 10 inches the extended cab is going to add. Then I would most likely have to shorten up the bed so it doesn't have a bubba gump lip. I would rather start fresh and completely strip the extended cab and take my time and fix things I did 10 years ago when I was young and dumb. Actually just picked up the extended cab.