Author Topic: Replacement pads for Allpro t-case e-brake... (Read 10528 times)

H8PVMNT · « **on:** Mar 02, 2016, 10:02:45 AM »

I know it's all ready out there but I thought I would post up what I ordered to replace the pads on my 15 year old all pro t-case e-brake.

http://xtremedist.com/parkingbrakeacccushman.html

These are the Cushman 883141 pad set. I will post up how they worked. Looks like I will need to grind off the stud on the flat pad.

OVRAROK · « **Reply #1 on:** Mar 02, 2016, 10:05:02 AM »

Quote from: H8PVMNT on Mar 02, 2016, 10:02:45 AM

I know it's all ready out there but I thought I would post up what I ordered to replace the pads on my 15 year old all pro t-case e-brake.

http://xtremedist.com/parkingbrakeacccushman.html

These are the Cushman 883141 pad set. I will post up how they worked. Looks like I will need to grind off the stud on the flat pad.

how to you like that e brake setup?, seems like you give, good honest reviews

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #2 on:** Mar 02, 2016, 10:16:24 AM »

Well I've always been impressed by it when it is adjusted properly. Having the e-brake lock the entire drive train pre-gear reduction is a powerful thing.

If you are all locked up you can drive right up a tree to the point of tipping over and set it and it will hold your truck there. Always a favorite at after wheeling party/camp sites with guys who aren't aware you can do that kind of thing. I have got a few guys to rip the steering boxes off their chevies trying to figure out how I did it. It's not for everybody but it is a vast improvement over the drum e-brakes for big tires.

I cut off the torsion bar brackets that hold the e-brake cable housing in place on the back end last time I built my truck so I need to address that with a new tab on the frame to get a good solid adjustment. The pads have always drug slack just a bit so I plan to do a tweak and tune this time to eliminate that.

When the pads get worn to a certain point you can't adjust it enough to work well, but it took me a decade and a half to wear them out to that point.

My only real complaint is the somewhat hard to source cushman brake pads it uses. I want to reverse engineer it for my boys' trucks but make it to use a dirt cheap and readily available brake pad.

OVRAROK · « **Reply #3 on:** Mar 02, 2016, 10:35:15 AM »

did you scroll down on that link, looks like they have same pads without center post, they are cheaper too

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #4 on:** Mar 02, 2016, 10:52:46 AM »

Quote from: ovrarok on Mar 02, 2016, 10:35:15 AM

did you scroll down on that link, looks like they have same pads without center post, they are cheaper too

OK I'll check it out.

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #5 on:** Mar 02, 2016, 11:05:11 AM »

The front pad has no post, the back pad has a post. The front pad has smaller holes the size of the bolt that goes through. The back pad with the post has larger holes so it floats on these sleeves with springs that allow the brake to open and close. So you don't need the post, but you need the pad with the post because it has the larger holes.

OVRAROK · « **Reply #6 on:** Mar 02, 2016, 11:24:08 AM »

Quote from: H8PVMNT on Mar 02, 2016, 11:05:11 AM

The front pad has no post, the back pad has a post. The front pad has smaller holes the size of the bolt that goes through. The back pad with the post has larger holes so it floats on these sleeves with springs that allow the brake to open and close. So you don't need the post, but you need the pad with the post because it has the larger holes.

all pro doesn't sell a replacement pad

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #7 on:** Mar 02, 2016, 11:55:35 AM »

They only sell a "caliper" which as far as I can tell is just the pads with the sleeves, springs and bolts for $160.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #8 on:** Mar 02, 2016, 04:21:30 PM »

The company I work for is a Cushman dealer if you ever need parts. You can source them from a company called total source (also known as tvh)

I would like to use one of these brakes. But not sure how I would since I'm running the front range cross member

helipilot77 · « **Reply #9 on:** Mar 02, 2016, 05:17:21 PM »

I have the all pro e-brake set-up on my 4Runner and have never been able to get it to work nearly as well as what you are describing.

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #10 on:** Mar 02, 2016, 06:09:03 PM »

Quote from: helipilot77 on Mar 02, 2016, 05:17:21 PM

I have the all pro e-brake set-up on my 4Runner and have never been able to get it to work nearly as well as what you are describing.

While reading this thread that was the first thought that came to my mind. Was what you and zippo told me about them. Sounds like maybe you guys didn't get them setup correctly?? What he is describing sounds better than any regular e-brake.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #11 on:** Mar 02, 2016, 06:38:54 PM »

My big yellow toyota had this set up and it worked very well. Even on 54" tires

mudmaster · « **Reply #12 on:** Mar 03, 2016, 06:43:26 AM »

Mine works just fine also. I think the key is adjusting it.

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #13 on:** Mar 03, 2016, 08:26:03 AM »

There is a lot of adjustment built into the thing and you do have to mess with it. The other thing is making sure your cable housing is firmly secured. Slop on the aft end of the cable housing makes it so you can't get a good pull. Kind of like a derailer cable on a bike. My cable housing is just wired up there now and it's not as good as when it was securely bottomed out in the bracket that was made for it which I unwittingly plazed off.

Goose · « **Reply #14 on:** Mar 03, 2016, 09:48:00 AM »

Anyone ever have any luck finding the full e-brake contraption, or somthing similar that would work for less than an arm and a leg or ~$175? it just seems like so damn much for a couple pieces of metal and bolts, especially considering the pads look to only be about $30. I have an in-house cnc and have thought of making a similar affordable e-brake for years, but the cost of that brake setup has been the main deterrent..

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #15 on:** Mar 03, 2016, 10:37:53 AM »

They go used every once in a while. I have bought and sold them for under $200 over the years. I'm sure you could figure out how to build one. The only thing worth the money is that they have figured out the length of the rods and arms and the geometry to make the thing work.

I had disposable income when I bought mine years ago. I think they are worth the money since it would take a couple weekends to make one and get it working, plus some cash for pads and springs, pins, bolts, abrasives, drill bits, etc. That being said I would probably make one these days since I don't get much loose cash around.

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #16 on:** Mar 03, 2016, 11:55:20 AM »

Sky sells one too: http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=TOY-TCEB-001

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #17 on:** Mar 03, 2016, 12:05:05 PM »

So a guy I know says the rotor did not clear the floor when he bought his to use on his 4runner. Anyone with first gen 4runner care to comment on that? Is a body lift required to clear?

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #18 on:** Mar 03, 2016, 12:17:30 PM »

Quote from: SqWADoosh on Mar 03, 2016, 12:05:05 PM

So a guy I know says the rotor did not clear the floor when he bought his to use on his 4runner. Anyone with first gen 4runner care to comment on that? Is a body lift required to clear?

I just looked at mine and I have a good 1 1/2" clearance. I am using a truck frame but it is set up just like a stock 4runner. Was he running some drive train lift?

SqWADoosh · « **Reply #19 on:** Mar 03, 2016, 12:36:42 PM »

Quote from: H8PVMNT on Mar 03, 2016, 12:17:30 PM

I just looked at mine and I have a good 1 1/2" clearance. I am using a truck frame but it is set up just like a stock 4runner. Was he running some drive train lift?

I'll ask him.

OVRAROK · « **Reply #20 on:** Mar 03, 2016, 12:48:21 PM »

nothing a BFH wouldn't fix

Axman · « **Reply #21 on:** Mar 03, 2016, 06:31:08 PM »

I've been looking at the Sky's one as well since it is considerably cheaper. It says on the site that it is a wear unit and you cannot replace the pads. Does anyone know why that is or how to do it anyway? Or are they just saying that so you have to buy a whole new one?

OOPS · « **Reply #22 on:** Mar 04, 2016, 06:22:39 AM »

I bought some brake material from McMasters-Carr and re-lined them myself. Think it ran me 10-15dollars.

mudmaster · « **Reply #23 on:** Mar 04, 2016, 06:29:52 AM »

What did you use to bond them or are they riveted?

OOPS · « **Reply #24 on:** Mar 04, 2016, 06:44:15 AM »

Both!! $Beer Chug\'n$

OOPS · « **Reply #25 on:** Mar 04, 2016, 06:46:07 AM »

Quote

I would like to use one of these brakes. But not sure how I would since I'm running the front range cross member :smack

Erik B made one work on his FROR x-member. Had to make/modify the brackets.

OOPS · « **Reply #26 on:** Mar 04, 2016, 06:48:29 AM »

another picture.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #27 on:** Mar 04, 2016, 01:12:29 PM »

Thanks opps.

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #28 on:** Mar 07, 2016, 07:34:56 AM »

So I got the pads Friday. The flat pad had a stud that had to be ground off the back but they are otherwise identical...

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #29 on:** Mar 09, 2016, 02:07:58 PM »

Installed these on my lunch break.

I replaced the sleeves that the pads slide on because the old sleeves had a notch wore in them from age. Sleeves from the local farm supply were about 3/8" too long so I ground them off but I ended up leaving them about 3/32" longer than the originals.

My theory was that the original pads had a tendency to drag a bit and adding a bit more spread to the caliper would help this. So far it seems to be working because I have a little air space between both pads and the rotor.

This may be a viable tweak to this e-brake setup.

A little adjustment to the rod and it holds like the drivetrain is welded and releases clean.

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