Topic: Slip and twist style traction bars

[snowplow]

Hey guys, due to packaging I am considering the slip and twist style traction bar. Only concern is its on my nice driver. So has any of you experienced bad manners or general clunkiness with this setup. I would imagine they start pretty tight but I am not sure they stay that way 

I am asking because I run soft leaves and a big motor so it will be seeing lots of pressure.

Thanks guys,

DC

[snowplow [OP]]

No one? Really!? 

[Cheesemaker]

I've got no idea on what your talking about.   

[joey0712]

Slip and twist.... Sounds like sex position

[88_Pathy]

OK I'll poke in this one.  It would be called a wrap bar for simplicity.  But.  I do not see how you could save space with this style.  I guess they work the same but you are relying on the inner slip tube to take all the stress.  They are easier to build in some ways too.

[IronClad]

if anything it will make your truck preform better on the road

[noflyzone]

I'll go. Here's mine. I inherited it from another 4Runner. There is more than one way to build the slip and twist in. It just eliminates the baby shackle. Everything else is the same. I would not worry about it loosening up much.  I can't budge this one.

[H8PVMNT]

Just run a few more leaves in the rear springs or an anti-wrap leaf on the top/front of the rear packs.  That will be the best "packaging" you can get and still accomplish what you are after...  unless of course you want everyone to see your groovy traction bar under there.

[snowplow [OP]]

It would save me vertical space by allowing me to not run a shackle but mounting directly to the crossmember. Just wondering if you need to baby sit it.

[noflyzone]

You want that top bar as parallel to the ground as possible.

[Early]

dog poop

Sorry, on to your regularly scheduled program. Just think its funny when things make the picture that you don't plan on.

[yjay]

How do you know that poo is from a dog?
Anyways, I made one for my jeep because the axle wrap was foul after my spring over. I used a QA-1 inch and a quarter heim on the front end with a male threaded end into a weld in bung. The shackles were 3" centers to the bolts so pretty compact. The back 2 mounts at the axle were poly bushings. If I were to do it again I would have used bushings with male threaded ends into inserts so that the pinion angle could be adjusted if a different ride height was wanted. It was silent and worked very well. Those type of joints are rebuildable as well. It basically looked like the one pictured but with a joint in the front.

[snowplow [OP]]

Hey yjay, I thought about doing the rear bushings with male threads into bungs too but decided not to. Would you really get much adjustment out of it? Wouldn't the distance between the two bushings change unless the bars were parallel? You could get a little for sure but wouldn't it bind before you got much of anything?

[yjay]

If both bushings are adjustable, you can turn one out and turn the other one in and the distance between them should remain close enough (if not exactly) the same.
It works in my head anyways.

[Volcom]

Slip & twist would work OK.  Only problem is when you hit the traction bar against something and it pinches the outer slip tube.

Here's how I'm going to make my traction bar
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148260

[Fleetwood]

Not bad Volcom after i went to the other site it made much more sense innovative.

[Volcom]

Not bad Volcom after i went to the other site it made much more sense innovative.

This type of traction bar is going to be my winter project!  I gotta replace a bent rear housing first before welding on the traction bar to the housing though.