Author Topic: NWOR 160 AMP alternator (Read 11114 times)

csdpower · « **on:** Feb 11, 2003, 09:53:55 AM »

I bout a NWOR 160 AMP alternator for my '80 pu w/ 20r. I have had a hard time mounting it up. Has any one done this? It has a 2 vbelt pulley and a single ear instead of a double like my old one had. The wiring is simple. I'm going to make a new bracket and alter the adjusting bracket to fit. I need to know how to get 2 belts on it and clear the coolant hoses.

The customer service at NWOR doesn't seam to know anything and never calls me back. I don't recamend buying from them.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #1 on:** Feb 11, 2003, 01:38:23 PM »

Is it to late to send it back?

160AMPS?!?! wow you want to do some welding on the trail? if not you could maybe get a delco (chev) alt to do the job (78amps!)

brainlessfool · « **Reply #2 on:** Feb 11, 2003, 01:46:45 PM »

OMG!!! just checked my NWOR book and it says a 150 amp alt gos for 425!? OWCH! SEND IT BACK. unless you REALY need 150 amps its just to much $$$ and something elas to think about is that a 150 amp imput to your truck WILL need some thing done with your stock wires to your batt. not a big deal but if you run that kind of power tough the stock wires you'll start a fire!

csdpower · « **Reply #3 on:** Feb 12, 2003, 02:41:29 AM »

I have put in a 6 gauge. I think it is to late to send it back, I dented the back cover plate trying to get it to fit. :cry: I'm planing to put a winch, welder, and some good lights on it. I got the one from NWOR because I figured it would be easier to mount. I was wrong.

I think I have more $$$$ than sense. I'm still looking for an answer to my original ?'s.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #4 on:** Feb 12, 2003, 07:15:45 AM »

well ok so you've got to keep the alt. so , frist the pullys. I have a 83 22r, and it has 2 crank pully groves. so if I needed to run an alt with 2 groves I'd frist look at a/c bolt on pully ? a lot of trucks use a bolt on extra pully for the a/c. could something like that be used for the extra grove? maybe a trip to the junk yard is in order. but as for the ears? well if you can post pics it would give more to work with! and same for the hoses . where theres a will theres a way! good luck and keep us posted!

hawaii500_1999 · « **Reply #5 on:** Feb 12, 2003, 08:01:31 AM »

how far is elk grove from the santa cruz mountains?

i have a bucket of parts and there's some brackets and pullies that you can go through and try out if you'd like. i'll be home all weekend. maybe if i get time i can go through it and take pics of it all.

csdpower · « **Reply #6 on:** Feb 12, 2003, 09:19:27 AM »

Elk Grove is near Sacramento. I my local "pick n pull" is closer than you. I'll go treasure hunting this weekend. I have time. My old charging system still works most of the time. all the electronics are for the future. :up:

drybone · « **Reply #7 on:** Feb 12, 2003, 02:55:28 PM »

:sob: :sob: :sob: :cry: :cry: :cry:

Sorry to hear you got rangled into getting that overly priced alternator from NoWest $That\'s Gay$ You should get a Downey catalogue and read the bickering between these two companies, and then stand back and decide who is right or wrong

I know that most companies don't make things for the 83 and earlier trucks and alternators are one of them, so I had to look for something else. I went with a 100 amp AC Delco from Napa for $100 with a three year warranty. Now to the point, I had a difficult time finding a home for this baby, it would not fit where the old alternator would go. So I looked all over engine styles to find different brackets, early 20r's, 22r's, everything Toyota made, here's what I came up with. All power steering systems run on the third pulley, so you can nix that idea, that leaves the second pulley or first pulley. The second is reserved for AC or the air injection pump on earlier models. The Air injection pump bracket is the one want to throw on, then you can run a spacer to line it up with the first pulley and run one of those expanding turnbuckle to tighten up the belt. You want to try and run it off the first pulley if you can, it's larger than the others and it will let the alternator spin faster, your alternator will not hit it's 160 amp potential until it is probably past 4500 engine rpm, so it's best to get it there quick.
This is sort of a long reply but I feel that maybe someone will not do what you did and throw your Mooola away :cry: :cry: :cry: :unhappy: Good Luck with the set up. Hope my two cents can help

mr4x42u · « **Reply #8 on:** Feb 12, 2003, 09:44:07 PM »

The only thing nwor makes that is any good is the header..I thinks its one of the better ones out there,,but yea,,sorry you got robbed that :change:.So I have also used a newer style alt bracket for a toy that has internal reg.It worked for me,,just used a spacer..maybe if you find an alt rebuild shop you can do what drybone said,,use a smaller pully but find one that only has a single belt to make it look clean..When I threw mine one a pully cost me like 4 bucks..
Don't get :~~:from nwor... $That\'s Gay$

csdpower · « **Reply #9 on:** Feb 13, 2003, 03:03:19 AM »

I'm afraid that this alternator will slip the v-belt if I only use a single v-belt. have you had this prop with your 100 amp? belts are cheaper than having a new pulley turned. thanks dryborn that is allot of good info. At least I learn from my mistakes.

mr4x42u I love NWOR's header design (especially the gasketles fitting) but last time I checked NWOR's headers aren't smog leagle in California. I'm going to get some from downy for that reason. 8)

Ruari · « **Reply #10 on:** Feb 13, 2003, 06:24:50 AM »

Quote

mr4x42u I love NWOR's header design (especially the gasketles fitting) but last time I checked NWOR's headers aren't smog leagle in California. I'm going to get some from downy for that reason. 8)

I don't like my Downey header.
It burns out gaskets faster than I can get a new gasket.
The heat riser tube that they charge extra for to make it smog legal is a POS.

I would not recommend it and I wouldn't sell mine to a friend. It will probably find its way to the dumpster.

Just my .02

brainlessfool · « **Reply #11 on:** Feb 13, 2003, 12:31:43 PM »

Well your right, the NWOR header is NOT cal smog legal. But that being said, I get mine by smog evey time! (just dont tell'um thats its not smog legal) I play dumb and say "well it said smog legal in the book! the reson its not cal smog legal is that the O2 sencer only samplas one runner. And the shop I go to is VERY stricked about the laws. but the dang thing looks so good that they have not looked at it that hard. and it does look very good! I had my smog lic. a bit ago and know that there just ppl that dont know all the laws! no one can and you can find someone that will smog it. if not its no big deal to put the manifold back on anyway. Its been a few years sence I had my lic. but no one in the shop where I was knew all the laws, or got it right all the time! so I vote for the NWOR header, its sweet!

drybone · « **Reply #12 on:** Feb 13, 2003, 02:21:55 PM »

I'm not sure what you mean about slipping belts, does this alternator have a double belt pulley??? It's just a matter of lining the things up and tightening them. (it should have the same V-belt pattern as most toy's). explain more and I'll try to help..

You header boys ought to know that both designs are OK, it's a 4popper for Krissake, But I find the NoW TR Y better for sealing against the head, yet it's pathetic 3-bolt pattern to seal it up to the rest of the exhaust sucks.... And yet the Downey's ( slip over the next pipe and 360 degr. bolt) system is much better and I'm gonna torch and cut till I have both, and I will run one of those 12 inch flexible pipes from Downey to help out with the flex and keep header cracking at bay. You boys ought to get LC's copper exhaust manifold gasket to seal your problems. (it works..)

mr4x42u · « **Reply #13 on:** Feb 13, 2003, 09:09:47 PM »

Yea,you won't have to have a pully machined..You can buy one for a couple of bucks..By the sounds of it you need a matched set of belts if your going to run two belts..I have you seen the price difference for a matched set these days..I don't know thats what youll have to do..but If they run the same length it will be a good idea or one will always be loose and then you back to one belt basicly...The one thing that is nice about oregons smog program,,its run by the state..These fools in there doing the tests don't have a friggn clues as to the diffrence to a o2 senor,cat,or an egr valve..If it passes,,thats all they care about..My 85 suburban passed withnot a single smog device on it..They asked me if it was a cat equipped vehicle :hahaha:uuhhh,,no man I don't think so..It failed the idle test but i turned the idle scres till they were about 1/4 turn out and if flew through..I know cali is not like that..I also used to do smog checks there..sticklers..My buddy got popped from the state for not checking an egr on a stste car..The state put a plate under the egr valve then busted him for passing the vehicle..

good luck with your woes...

csdpower · « **Reply #14 on:** Feb 14, 2003, 02:19:21 AM »

drybone, it came with a nice strong double pulley on the alternator, my old one only had a single. mr4x42u, I'll just buy 2 of the same belt and call it close enough. :up:

drybone · « **Reply #15 on:** Feb 15, 2003, 05:08:31 PM »

What is the second pulley suposed to run, or is it just to give you options, sounds like they sent you a cruiser alt. Downey sends em out with dual pulleys, you can easily switch out the pulleys, they are almost universal as to inside diameter, try to see if you can take your single off the stock toy alt. and throw it on the nwor beast.

mr4x42u · « **Reply #16 on:** Feb 16, 2003, 09:59:12 PM »

Sounds to me like he wants to run that duel pulley.Its been mentioned to change it a couple of times..

csdpower · « **Reply #17 on:** Feb 18, 2003, 03:41:49 AM »

I read in a magazine that you should put 2 v/belts on a high output alternator to keep the belt from slipping every time it's activated.

drybone, If you haven't had any slipping problems with your 100amp than I may not have a problem. I'll swap the pulleys and see.

drybone · « **Reply #18 on:** Feb 20, 2003, 05:38:58 AM »

Summits 140 amp, doesn't have one, nor does Powermaster's giant 200 amp. but heh! what do I know, good luck with the system, let me know how it works out. For all you other guys out there get the Powermaster Delco 100 amp from Summit Racing for $100, it has a pull through fan and dual rectifiers to keep cool, plus a tiny pulley to get it up to it's 6000 rpm (highest output) range. I'm ordering a new one this weekend, and use my older Delco as the truck's spare.

drybone · « **Reply #19 on:** Feb 25, 2003, 07:17:12 AM »

Just had to update this,
I mentioned that the air pump bracket is one too use for the Delco alternator, this will only allow you to run it off the second pulley, just like the air pump, it get's in the way if your trying to turn the alternator off the first pulley.

This weekend I'm heading out to the junkyard to find some brackets that will allow me to run it off the first pulley. :up:, if anyone is interested I'll try to gather some pics of what I found and did.

Got snowed out of Soldier Pass yesterday :cry: :cry:

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #20 on:** Feb 25, 2003, 11:55:35 AM »

:dunno:hey drybone, is that 140 amp alt from summit a "toyota " or a delco one wire???

csdpower · « **Reply #21 on:** Feb 26, 2003, 10:10:45 AM »

Here is a pic of what my alternator looks like. its the bottom pic on this site.

http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/alternators.html

drybone · « **Reply #22 on:** Mar 04, 2003, 06:07:21 AM »

It's a delco style that summit makes, they can come with one, two, or three wire. I use the two wire because the self energizing one wire likes to keep the MSD ingnition box running all by it's self, those two get into bed together and it's hard to shut the motor off.
Back to the picture, it doesn't look anything like those.

95TacoTruck · « **Reply #23 on:** Apr 22, 2003, 12:02:07 PM »

I don't know if anyone has mentioned it but downey sells one that is over 100 amps and costs alot less than the NWOR one does, also The people at Downey are alot more user friendly than the bastards at NWOR. Oh and Downey stands behind their products.

axled89 · « **Reply #24 on:** Sep 18, 2009, 11:55:46 PM »

well what is the stock amps on the 89 3.0 alts. does any one know?

and what is a good alt. to run on this app. any suggestions

kneedownnate · « **Reply #25 on:** Sep 19, 2009, 11:18:57 PM »

Bumping old threads is a great idea, but only if they're relevant

THE ROCK · « **Reply #26 on:** Dec 23, 2009, 10:38:54 PM »

check out "alternatorparts.com"..they have a kit called the "iceberg mod"..for 140.00..bump up that GM CS-130 alt from 100 to 140 amps!

$Beer Chug\'n$

junya92toy · « **Reply #27 on:** Dec 24, 2009, 03:03:10 PM »

A stock 3.0 alt is 60 amps. Ive used mine for years with daylighers, a winch , 12v air compressor and a stereo. I have a yellow top battery too.

mathwizz90 · « **Reply #28 on:** Dec 27, 2009, 08:11:38 PM »

I have an 85 pickup with that NWOR alternator and 2 optima yellow tops, but i run everything, air, winch, welder, and lights lots of lights, But i don't have any problems. As far as mounting it I'm still having problems finding a belt that fits, and i had to pull one of my radiator hoses to get the thing in there but other than that its good.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #29 on:** Dec 27, 2009, 10:06:16 PM »

I have to pull my lower radiator hose every time I've had my alternator out of my 80, which sucked when I kept having alts die right after I bought them, which sucked worse cause my radiator is too big so I'd have to cut the lower hose out.

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