Topic: Motive Power Bleeder

[CTENG in KS]

Anyone used one of these?  I am considering grabbing one to use on the 4runner and Beastmaster...specially the beastmaster.  I would love to be able to bleed the brakes without opening those stupis bleeder screws that are all seized up every time.   

[freds40]

My dad has one like it and he had some troubles with it. I think his problem with it was he was using too much pressure. You can only use like 6-10 psi in the system otherwise the seal on the MC will just start puking fluid. Not sure on the Motive bleeder but most are made that they pressurize the system and then you crack the bleeders and the pressure forces the fluid/air out without needing to use the brake pedal. I don't understand how you could bleed the system without cracking the bleeders?

How I do mine is with an old vacuum pump from a smog machine. I run the vacuum line into a jar and then a seperate line from the jar to the bleeder. The pump pulls vacuum into the jar which in turn pulls the fluid through the brake system. I recently flushed my Dodge brake lines with this system. I pulled probably 4 qts. of brake fluid through the system and I have a solid pedal now.

[CTENG in KS [OP]]

Yeah, I just read more about it...gotta open the bleeders.  I freaking hate brakes.  Never mind the power bleeder, I will just have to deal with my hand pump I guess.

[fordh8r]

Try this. Hook up your hose (preferrably clear vinyl to view air coming out) and container (any container will do) and set it on top of the wheel so air will continue to rise and move upward and away from the cylinder. You may need to use something to hold the assembly on top of the wheel to keep it from falling off as the container fills and gets heavier. Open the bleeder and pump to your hearts content (either till the air is gone or the fluid is crystal clear).
   It seems when you use vac on the rears it has a tendency to pull air around the wheel cyl cups and not allow them to bleed properly it also has a tendency to suck air around the threads of the bleeder screw and makes you think you're not done bleeding yet which wastes a lot of fluid.

  It worked perfectly for me. Hope it does for you as well

[CTENG in KS [OP]]

my biggest issue is not bleeding itself...it is the bleeding bleeder screws which are always stuck and rounded off.

[fordh8r]

Once you get them to turn you should be able to go get new bleeder screws. Also be sure to use six point box wrenches or a socket to crack 'em and tighten 'em to keep them nice.   

[Oddmar]

Getting the old screws to come out IS a PITA, but once you have them out, (or once you replace the calipers and the rear cylinders), install these nifty little gizmos.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

It makes what was once a crappy messy two-person job into an easy DIY process, for just $30.

The 84 XtraCab in my avatar has them, it took me 10 minutes to bleed my brake system to a solid pedal, BY MYSELF.

[CTENG in KS [OP]]

I saw those...I think that may be my answer.

[grillmasterp]

I've had my Motive power bleeder for over 4 years-
It beats the mityvac hand vac(Same prob as fordh8r described), two-person pump/hold method,  gatorade bottle & tubing methods.
It's become a very useful tool to have in my garage-
Everyone that has borrowed it has gone out and ordered one for themselves.
The main advantage over speed bleeders is that the Motive can be used on multiple vehicles and can also be used to bleed your clutch MC.
I use the Motive bleeder on all of the vehicles for  annual brake fluid flushes in addition to brake work-
It also comes in handy if the rear brake line has to be disconnected for removal of rear axle shafts during diff work.

Tips-
-Before adding brake fluid to the Motive bleeder- you are suppose to pressurize it with air to ensure you have a good seal on the MC reservoir.
When you depressurize to add brake fluid, A couple extra turns to tighten the wing nuts on the J- bolts are usually required.
-Add a  T- fitting & relief valve to the gauge for easy depressurization


However- this won't help if the bleeder screws are your problem.  Just replace them and use a flare wrench to loosen them next time.

[Oddmar]

Since i had to replace the bleeder screws anyway, i put in speedbleeders. And one would probably fit in the clutch slave cylinder, too.