Topic: 1st Gen. Toyota SAS (2wd to 4wd)In its new Parking Space

[cgbemis]

Instead of notching the bottom of the frame for half sleeve that the shackle tube will be cradled in, why not go through the frame like on a stock rig? When I converted my 86 2wd, we went through the frame, and it worked great. It not only lowered the truck, but it also raised the pinion up versus going with the shackle under the frame.

[inmyownsummerami [OP]]

That was the plan originally for the reasons you listed, but the springs are nowhere near the stock location, the rear eye is about 10" forward of the body mount where the frame is already tapered in a few inches. While it could still be done similar to the stock 4wd setup, it just isn't worth it to me.

[bkn]

wow that's a project..............

[teamballsdeep]

get to work i wanna see this thing done!!!!!!!!!    good work, thats gonna be worth the time and money when your done

[Steve97TJ]

So did you ever finish this or is it sitting or sold? I am looking to do the exact same thing and curious if its worth it to buy the 2wd thats hella cheap and solid frame/body or just pony up and buy a 4wd truck. Seems to be about the same amount of work honestly when doing it right, and from what ive read you can keep a 2wd truck sas'd lower.

[THK Matt]

2wd's are much easier and better to convert... hands down. old thread but oh well.

[Steve97TJ]

Ya i think if i can fund it i'm going to just buy it and slowly buy parts. Im in the middle of a build on my TJ, so this would be on the back burner if so. Ill start a build thread if i end up with it.

[GJToyotabug]

2wd's are much easier and better to convert... hands down. old thread but oh well.

?? how? you have to get a trans t-case, cut just as much stuff off, replace the steering box because the 2wd one is too weak. i say more power to someone that wants to but ill stick with 2wd's slammed of go fast desert stuff!

[THK Matt]

?? how? you have to get a trans t-case, cut just as much stuff off, replace the steering box because the 2wd one is too weak. i say more power to someone that wants to but ill stick with 2wd's slammed of go fast desert stuff!

they dont have the waffle inside the frame, making it easier to drill for shackle tubes.
less ifs to cut off
no need to box the motor mounts
higher hump in the frame, meaning you can keep the lift down and achieve the same if not better flex
you have to move the box forward on any SAS anyways, even a SA, to do high steer, so moving the box is not "more of a chore"

and getting a trans and tcase isnt that hard or a high priced item.

[inmyownsummerami [OP]]

Well, a year and half later and the truck is looking about the same with the exception of the housings being shaved and for the most part done, and the front suspension done minus shocks.
 Bought a house in June, and have been slowly getting stuff done there. A few weekends ago my cousin and I scabbed the steering together good enough to drag the truck over to the new place. No more working in the dirt for me . The garage was converted into a room and a good size 2 car shop built in the back yard complete with a bathroom and gas heater.The back yard is all concrete with the exception of a small deck, and a patch of grass on the side of the house. So once I get the power turned on to the shop I should be able to start getting stuff done. Hopefully I can get some pics tomorrow of the truck in its new environment. I don't think it has ever been parked in a garage before now.
 I also bought a 1950s Yale forklift from work for $300. Runs great, just have to drain the engine oil once in a while and dump it back into the hydraulic tank because of a pump shaft seal leaking into the crankcase. The mast clears the garage door by about 1/2". The thing has already paid for itself in my eyes. Had to use it to drag the truck up the driveway and push it into the shop. I'm looking at it as a gas powered cherry picker/floor jack/whatever the hell else I can think of. It even has an aux. log splitter valve with Q.D.s so I can use it to power all kinds of hydraulic devices.
 Pics to come tomorrow or friday if I don't have work.

[inmyownsummerami [OP]]

   Here's the truck in the new diggs.

   The garage needs some shelves and a little work(and power) before I can really start working on the truck out there, but it'll have to do until I get some stuff done on the house.
  The $300 self propelled floor jack.

   It was dark by the time I got to the house, so I'll try to get it out of the shop tomorrow and get some side pics.
   Last one for now.

   The garage is if I remember right 19ft. x 20ft. with a 9ft. ceiling, a 5ft. x 5ft. shitter, and a 15ft. by 5ft. storage/laundry room on the side.

[Yota87Truck]

Sweet work space!  can't wait til I have a garage

[OldGold3VZE]

Nice man, keep it up.  I just finished my 2wd body swap to 4wd frame and I am loving the new stance.  Nice front hanger BTW.

[inmyownsummerami [OP]]

Nice man, keep it up.  I just finished my 2wd body swap to 4wd frame and I am loving the new stance.  Nice front hanger BTW.

Thanks. I built that hanger trying to keep it low, and push the front axle as far forward as I could without getting too crazy. As you can see it's still kinda tall. I'm just gonna leave it how it is for now with the exception of the rear shackles.

[OldGold3VZE]

The whole super low thing is over rated.  You just can't have good high speed performance without at least 5" of true uptravel, and 7" is even better.  I say it looks good.  Just be sure to get some good dampers on there, makes all the difference.

[inmyownsummerami [OP]]

With this set up high speed ain't gonna happen. It would be nice to be able to go fast, but being a trail only vehicle it's not needed.I believe I'm at about 26" to the bottom of the frame under the doors. I would like it to be lower, but that's gonna have to wait. I want to get at least 2 years or so of use out of it as is, or fairly close to the same set up while I get parts together to link it with a 60 front and 60 or 70u rear.