Topic: 1UZFE or 2UZFE into 93 4Runner - Auto Tranny Questions???

[cebby]

FWIW, I looked at my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee today and found there is no separate fan on the AC condensor. The air in that one works just fine sitting and idling...

[Uncle Jesse]

A lot of cars only use one fan for the condensor and radiator.  If you use a good radiator fan, then you might be able to get away without a condensor fan.  That is, if the condensor is in front of the radiator.  I'm not sure how well one fan will work with the condenser behind the radiator.

By the way, how did that flex a lite black magic fan work for you?  I had one on my 22re and it was crapola.  Stock fan and clutch worked better than that fan ever could.

[jr9162]

Here's a site with pics of overhaul of the A340 transmission:

http://www.supras.nl/index.php?opti...id=35&Itemid=52

[cebby [OP]]

I finally got back down to the shop after my weeklong+ hiatus (family in from out of town).

On the Runner, just a couple little things done.  The big news is that I got the motor off the skid and up onto the engine stand.  For this particular stand, the fingers add roughly 2 7/16 (approx 60mm) to the bolts + thread depth (approx 30mm).  So, I got (4) bolts M12 x 1.25tp x 90mm long.  No pics of me actually bolting the engine to the stand (too much cursing)

How about a good look at that engine... 

[BUBBA]

Sweet,looks good.I'd hate to have to replace the starter though.Looks like it would be a real pita.

[cebby [OP]]

Sweet,looks good.I'd hate to have to replace the starter though.Looks like it would be a real pita.

I have to remove the intake to change the wiring harness, so I will be replacing the contacts when I have the intake off.  I really don't want to have to pull that sucker once the motor is in.

[Uncle Jesse]

I'd also recommend replacing any rubber related pcv, breather, or cooland hoses that may be routed under the intake.  I work on Ford 4.6 liters and early to mid ninties had a coolant hose under the intake in the block valley.  Four inches of rubber hose and the rest was steel.  No access without the intake off.  So, needless to say that would be a few hundred dollar job for a two dollar hose.

The PCV hoses tend to get some oil intake and soften up.  Over time they will suck a hole into themselves, and you'll get lean driveability problems.

Basically, keep an eye out for any wear items under the intake.

[cebby [OP]]

Thanks Jesse.  Good idea on the hoses.

Got a few things done tonight:

Removed:

Skid
Coolant, ATF and Engine Oil
Bumper and valence
Flex-a-lite fan
Radiator
AC Condensor/Evap./piping
Horns
Hood latch/support

After getting all this stuff out, it appears that I the LS400 rad I was thinking about using is too large.  Back to the drawng board...

[cebby [OP]]

For those that have pulled this motor before, can I pull the engine/trans/t-case as one unit, or do I need to unbolt the trans from the block?  Those bolts up on top of the trans have got to be a beotch if its the latter...

[cebby [OP]]

OK, I received a Tundra torque converter today.  I compared it to the LS400 TC.  While there is a slight difference dimensionally, the big diffference is in the weight.  Even with some ATF left in the LS400 TC (and virtually none in the Tundra TC), the Tundra TC weighs at least 1/3 more.  (Sorry, no scale handy).  The top half of the two TC's are virtually identical, the difference lies on the driveplate side of the TC.  The Tundra TC measures roughly 12" diameter, while the LS400 TC is roughly 11 3/8".



So, the added size and weight should help dissipate the heat associated with the  auto trans/crawlers (with adequate coolers installed of course)

[cebby [OP]]

Spent 5 hours at the shop tonight.  I'm bushed!

Got a good amount done though.

Pulled the trans fluid cooler
Pulled the crossmember
Finished uphooking everything in the engine bay (balance of the AC piping and power steering hoses)

Then I ran into a problem...  I can't get any of my damn driveshaft bolts out.  I tried everything.  I'm going to pickup a set of wobble impact sockets so I can use my impact wrench on those stubborn buggers.  Any words of wisdom (other than heat..)

When I ran into this issue, I turned my attention to 1UZ.  Time to start tearing into it.  Important thing to note:  Even if the folks you get the engine from say they drained all the fluids, don't believe it.  I flipped mine over and proceded to dump a bunch of coolant on the floor.  Then I discovered that my mounting of the engine to the stand was far from balanced - when I flipped it, it about threw me into the air (no small feat!). I found that I was unable to flip it back over, so then I push the engine across the shop to where the chain hoist is.  Hook it to the engine and start hoistin'.  Phew!

So, then I tear into the engine.

I got the TB and top intake plenum off, then I stripped the existing harness off.  I have a couple of sensors to unhook, but for the most part, I'm ready to install the new harness.  Here's a few pics of the strippage:

[cebby [OP]]

OK, back at it tonight.  Although only for about 45minutes.  I had a big project that chewed up ALL of my time for the last week.  The good news...  my wife and kids are off to DC for the weekend, so I'll hopefully get alot done this weekend.  I need to make a trip to the Lexus dealer for some gaskets and starter contacts though - hope they stock some of that stuff...

Tonight I tore more of the engine apart to get to the starter so I can replace the contact.  As seen in previous picks, it would one big mo fo to do with the engine in the vehicle.

Lower intake plenum


Lower plenum out


Starter




Pull the cover and it looks just like the 3VZE starter I replaced the contacts on last November...


Plunger out..


The contacts weren't in bad shape, but I'm replacing them anyway.  I noticed they have alot more surface area than the 3VZE starter contacts did.

I'm welding up a cradle to insert in my floor jack so I can pull the trans/t-case easily .  I was looking online at tranny jacks and they are just glorified floor jacks with a cradle.

I did NOT take a crack at the driveshaft bolts tonight though.  Probably tomorrow...

[Uncle Jesse]

Shoot, for all that work put a plunger in that starter too.  They usually come in a kit with contacts, or i'm sure they aren't too expensive seperately.

Also, inspect that ignition wire to the starter.  I don't know how well it's routed and supported under there, but it would be bogus to have that puny wire break or have a bad spot.  Check right at the connector end especially. 

[cebby [OP]]

I'll take a look at the wire.  It is protected in loom pretty well, so it is probably OK.

Since I have the intake off, I was thinking about porting/polishing the intake runners.  Anyone think it is worth the trouble?

[cebby [OP]]

I need 6 groove pulleys for my AC pump, PS Pump and Alternator.  Anyone know where I should start looking?  How hard are these to switch out?

[tawneybuilt]

The unit on the front of the motor with the flat four spoke pulley and hydraulic fittings is the pump for a hydraulic cooling fan found on SC400s.  The only other difference (that I know of) between a SC motor and a LS motor is the position of the oil pan sump; SC400 = mid sump,  LS400 = front sump. You have a Toyota (non Lexus) motor from over seas but you probably knew that.
The cooling fan pump should be interchangeable with the fan bracket and pulley found on the LS400.
Lexus part #s
bracket 16307-50011
pulley 16371-50030
you will also need four 8mm x 1.25 nuts to secure the pulley to the bracket
The accessory config on both SC and LS is (as facing the engine bay)  power steering pump is left upper, alternator is left lower , and AC compressor is right lower. I would advise running the Lexus accessories and making custom P/S and AC lines and Alt. harness.
It sounds like your thinking of running the Tundra bell housing in the 1uz-fe; Does the bolt pattern match? Will the 1uz starter work with that bell housing?
 

[cebby [OP]]

Thanks for the reply.  Yep, motor is a JDM Toyota V8.  For all intensive purposes, it's an LS400 style motor (except for the hydro fan)

I've come to my senses and will run the Lexus AC compressor and PS pump.  The alternator looks like it may bolt up, so I may try to reuse that (I have a hi-amp Mr. Alternator unit).  Oddly enough, the stock 1UZ alternator is 100amp.  If it's the same case as the 3VZ, we may have stumbled onto an easy electrical upgrade.

The Tundra bellhousing is supposed to fit.  The 1UZ and 2UZ (Tundra) blocks are the same in this area.  Upon visual inspection, the LS400 bellhousing I have looks the same as the Tundra BH.  Starter on top in the valley.  I need to pull the BH I have mounted the the A340F and do a comparison of the the two.  I should go do that now... 

[tawneybuilt]

I was thinking about your radiator. It has been my experience that every LS400, that I have changed a waterpump or timing belt on, there has been an build up of leaves, dirt,and trash between the ac condenser and the radiator (strange but unique to the LS). I have seen LS radiators where over half the air flow surface was blocked by this build up. What is even more strange is that LS400s never have cooling problems due to this build up. It appears that the stock cooling system for and LS is either over built or the aluminum block is just supper efficient at dissipating heat. My point is that you could probably get away with running a smaller then stock LS radiator, like the stock 3.0 radiator, with little or no difference is engine cooling performance. Hose position and routing then become the problem.
 

[jr9162]

Cebby,

With the IFS and front sump, did you ever decide what you'll do for oil pan to diff clearance?

I've been told that a front sump will work with the IFS if one does a 2" body lift. If no body lift is used then a Castlemaine Rod Shop (CRS) in OZ makes a pan for the conversion. I think they make motor mounts to suit as well.

JR

[cebby [OP]]

Cebby,

With the IFS and front sump, did you ever decide what you'll do for oil pan to diff clearance?

I've been told that a front sump will work with the IFS if one does a 2" body lift. If no body lift is used then a Castlemaine Rod Shop (CRS) in OZ makes a pan for the conversion. I think they make motor mounts to suit as well.

JR

I have a 1" BL now.  I know for sure that a 2" BL will allow for enough clearance (Twistytoy94 on www.lextreme.com has this setup with stock front sump), but I'm going to get the motor situated and build my own motor mounts.  If memory serves, the center link is the offending item.  From the pics I've seen, I might be able to get by with the 1" or something less than a full 2".  I have a stick of UHMW left from making some BL's, so I can make the blocks exactly what I need I might rework the center link/tie rods since this is one of the big weaklinks on this IFS setup.

[Toymanf]

Hey there Cebby
I have been driving mine for 3 days now. I am running a 1.5" body lift. I had to remove the steering stabilizer and slightly dent the oil pan to allow clearance of the center link. I have been driving around with only the stock condensor fan pushing air thru the stock radiator. The temp gauge does not move above t-stat temp with this setup. I do not have a/c hooked up yet. outside temp here was in the mid 90 degree range. I set up the cooling system with temp hoses until I decide for sure which radiator to run. At this point I am leaning towards keeping the stock 3.0 radiator. I would be able to fit a Spal 16" x 2.05" fan as a puller. These are only rated at 1300 cfm so I am not sure.
More to come
Frank

[cebby [OP]]

Hey there Cebby
I have been driving mine for 3 days now. I am running a 1.5" body lift. I had to remove the steering stabilizer and slightly dent the oil pan to allow clearance of the center link. I have been driving around with only the stock condensor fan pushing air thru the stock radiator. The temp gauge does not move above t-stat temp with this setup. I do not have a/c hooked up yet. outside temp here was in the mid 90 degree range. I set up the cooling system with temp hoses until I decide for sure which radiator to run. At this point I am leaning towards keeping the stock 3.0 radiator. I would be able to fit a Spal 16" x 2.05" fan as a puller. These are only rated at 1300 cfm so I am not sure.
More to come
Frank

Great news Frank!  If you had another 1/2" on the body lift, woulld you have needed to dent the oilpan?

Good news on the cooling also.  I'd love to keep my stock rad and not mess around too much with it.  I think Tawneybuilt might be on to something with the aluminum block being helpful for cooling.  I wonder how it will do crawling though...

How did the electrical connections go?  Was it difficult or pretty plug and play?

[jr9162]

Frank,

What gearbox are you running? If manual, what kit - CSR, Dellow, or piecemeal?

JR

[cebby [OP]]

Got tied up with stuff - back to it this week hopefully.

It appears that the AC pumps I'm finding are R134 for the 1UZ. My 4Runner was R12. Are there other components I need to switch out along with the pump, or can I reuse what I have?

The other thing I'm finding is regarding the alternators. Do I have to use the LS400 alt with the heat shield, or can I use an SC400 alt (no heat shield).

Anyone know if the 1UZ and 2UZ accessories are interchangable?  (PS Pump, AC Pump, alternator)

[tawneybuilt]

The rest of the ac system on the 4runner will work with the R134 but you should change the receiver/dryer to a R134 version.  A toyota dealer will have one if you cant find one at a parts store. The conversion fittings will be way less at a parts store vs. toyota. If you get a new receiver/dryer, leave it sealed by its self until your ready to evacuate and charge the system.
The alternators for the LS and SC appear to have the same connectors but that doesn't mean the internal wiring for the regulators is the same. Check a wiring diagram for the car the alt came from to be sure. If it bolts up, run it.
2UZ accessories interchangeable? - good question.
 

[cebby [OP]]

OK, I found a PS pump and a Alt locally for a reasonable price, but ran into a question on the AC pump.

The salvage yard I was speaking to said the AC pumps were the same for 90-92, then different for 93-97.  They have a 92, but I think my engine is a 94.  He said there is a difference with the clutch pulley and suction tube (?).

Can anyone shed some light on this?

[tawneybuilt]

The 90-92 compressor is for a R12 system, 93-97 is R134. They both bolt up  the same and the pulley
size is the same but they are different compressors. The early R12 compressors are the weak link in the ac system - they wear internally and eventually lock up (contaminating the entire system- ugly) but the R134 style compressors have proved much more reliable. Go with the later style if you can and convert the runner to R134. The price of R134 gas is usually about one tenth compared to R12.
 

[cebby [OP]]

OK - after a long break, I finally got back to it today...

Went from this:


To this:


I'm replacing the timing belt and water pump in case you couldn't figure it out.  I found a good writeup for dismantling the front of the motor - a few minor inconsistencies, but overall, not too bad.

That took about 2 1/2 hours including a run to the auto parts store to buy a puller for the crank pulley.  Oh, I was all worried about getting the crankshaft bolt out since the motor was out of the vehicle - I had visions of using some ungodly breaker bar and flipping then engine over on to the floor.  It was really a piece of cake.  My impact took it right off with no fanfare.

I hope to get back down there tomorrow and put the motor back together.  Plenty to do there including starter rebuilt (5 minute job), PS pump rebuild, water pump, timing belt, caps/rotors, plugs, wires, etc.

Hey, check out the difference between the waterpump I pulled off compared to the new one.  The existing one has a plastic impeller, while I new one is metal.  Of course I get the old one off and it still looks brand new on the inside...

Old one:


New one:


I'm hoping my tranny jack arrives from HF tomorrow so I can finallly get the motor and trans out.  I still need to assembly the t-cases and crawler assembly, so it will be a little while until I can fit all this stuff in there.  I think I'll be fabbing my own crossmember also.

*I also saw that there is a new coupler for the AT that includes a seal housing.  Looks like I'll be needing one of those...

[BUDDERS]

Do yourself a favor and replace the hydraulic fan pump assembly with a fan bracket from and LS400 while you are at it.  Then again, you've probably already thought of that.

Just thought of something else, if you are searching junkyards for lexus parts, you might want to pick up another ignition coil to keep as a spare for the trail.  Although it is rare, I have had both sc400's and ls400's coils go bad and still run because they have dual coils - they just turn into a 4 cylinder slug. When this happens, they run smooth but won't go above 20mph and seriously lack in power.  So imagine what this would do if you were geared down on a trail with no power and the extra weight of a v8 and body armor....

I looked into this swap too since I have worked on these engines a long time, but eventually decided on a 3rz swap, mainly due to weight, gas, and $.

[BUDDERS]

I just took a look at your throttle body picture and saw that your motor originally had traction control (apparent by the 2 butterflys and 2 tps's).  I'm curious what you are planning to do to dissable it.