1UZFE or 2UZFE into 93 4Runner - Auto Tranny Questions???

[cebby]

Do yourself a favor and replace the hydraulic fan pump assembly with a fan bracket from and LS400 while you are at it.  Then again, you've probably already thought of that.

Just thought of something else, if you are searching junkyards for lexus parts, you might want to pick up another ignition coil to keep as a spare for the trail.  Although it is rare, I have had both sc400's and ls400's coils go bad and still run because they have dual coils - they just turn into a 4 cylinder slug. When this happens, they run smooth but won't go above 20mph and seriously lack in power.  So imagine what this would do if you were geared down on a trail with no power and the extra weight of a v8 and body armor....

Good call on the coils.  I'll see what I can scare up at the pick and pull.

If I can get the pulley off (stripped the threads off the nut on there), I plan to remove the fins from the hydraulic fan impeller, fill it with oil and cap it off.  I'll now need to tack the nut on the ipulley shaft now since I screwed the threads...  Oh well, the price is right...  I'll use the trigger for the hydraulic fan from the ECU to run my thermo fan or fans depending on how everything fits.

As far as the 2nd Butterfly, it is not needed by the computer and can be removed and the actuator wiring not hooked up (with no ill effects).  They also made a non-traction control TB for this engine at the same time.  I could get one of those, but there really isn't the reason for it.  Most of the engines out there came with the Trac unit I've found.

[BUDDERS]

yeah, I know.  The JDM engines usually always come with all the bells and whistles

[cebby]

Got some more done today.  Rebuilt the starter and reinstalled it, installed the new waterpump, and then I turned my direction to the timing belt.  That's where I need a little help.

First a little background, I removed the existing timing belt yesterday.  While it did look a little worn, it still had all of its teeth.  While the belt was still on, I moved the crank to get the pulley to line up with the "0" mark per the instructions in the writeup I followed.  It appears that this was not the original timing belt either based on some of the things I found when dismantling the front of the motor.  (white zip ties)

The right bank has the alignment marks on it and it appears to be in the correct spot.  Here's the strange part. The left bank mark seems to be off by roughly 180 degrees.  Now I've never heard the engine run since it is a JDM import, but I made sure nothing moved when I removed the belt.

My question is this - should I assume that the positioning of everything WAS ok?  Or do I need to get that mark on the left pulley into the position where it would match up with the line on the timing belt?

Here's how it sat with the existing belt on (notice where the mark is on the left pulley - on the right in the pic):


Got the bottom on correctly:


The right bank lines up:


The left side is another matter...


Budders - do you know what I should do here?

Thanks!!!

[BUDDERS]

Ok.  First things first.  Do the painted marks on the cam pulleys cover an indentation in the metal?  If so, great, but I must point out that the painted marks did not come from the factory.  If the painted marks cover indentations in the metal, then yes, you must turn the left cam to line up with the mark on the timing belt.  If the left cam was off 180 degrees, then set the timing belt up as prescribed and do a compression test to see if the valves are bent in the left head.  In general, just set the timing belt to line up with the indentations in the pulleys from the factory and dont worry about the painted marks.

Btw, I must congradulate you on knowing your left bank from the right bank on this motor.  You'd be supprised how many rookies I've seen set the timing belt in there bassackwards.  The way I remember it for any motor is to picture yourself sitting on the trans facing the front of the motor and the right hand becomes the right bank and so on...

[BUDDERS]

Hold that thought a second!  You may have the left and the right pulleys switched.  Let me check my reference material at work tomorrow and I'll get back to you tomorrow night.

[cebby]

I don't remember seeing any indentations on the either the right or left pulley.  Maybe I have a better pic. (this one looks like there is a notch near the paint mark - I'm going to run down there in a few to check it out again)



I never took the pulleys off and the motor and they are marked L and R.  The directions I used said to use the painted marks which leads me to believe that the paint is a factory marking. 

This version of the 1UZ is a non interference motor, so I doubt the valves are bent.  It looks like the motor was run this way for a while judging from the condition of the timing belt I removed.

Thanks for your help!!

[cebby]

This AM, I went down and pulled the timing belt off and pulled the pump.  Took all of 5 minutes...

There was a nice "squish" in two areas on the inside of the pump (pulled off before taking the pics-oops).  Lesson learned.  It still wasn't fully set up yet in some areas...

[cebby]

Budders - Here's what I found on the pulleys:

Right Pulley - the paint mark is 180 degrees from notch in the pulley.  I'm pointing to the notch in this pic:


Left Pulley - the paint mark is right next to the notch in the pulley.  I'm pointing to the notch in this pic:


Is this normal for the paint marks to not match the nothces?  I don't get it...

[BUDDERS]

I don't get it either, but good news: I just saved a bunch of money on my car insurance!  Just kidding....

Anyways,  I took a look at our TIS machine at work today.  It's a IBM computer that's linked up online to coperate Toyota and has all the reference materials toyota/lexus published in the last 16 years or so and puts them at my fingertips (manuals, electrical diagrams, recall bulletins, etc...)  So, I found out that your pulleys are installed correctly and you DEFINETALY need to line up the marks on the timing belt to the INDENTATIONS on the cams (not the paint).  You already have the belt set correctly on the crank.

By the way, I hope you arent planning on using that red rtv for your water pump.  That stuff should only be reserved for trans pans.  I would go down to lexus or toyota and ask them for a tube of black fipg.  This is the stuff that toyota/lexus uses and makes for a much better seal that anything you can by at a aftermarket parts store or get from an American auto manufacturer. The F.I.P.G. stand for:  formed in plastic gasket.  Make sure you let this dry for a couple hours before adding any coolant to the system. 

If you need anything specific off of the TIS machine, let me know.  I doubt I will be able to e-mail it to you, but I should be able to fax it ok.

[cebby]

Cool on the timing belt info.  Someone else told me to ignore the paint also, so that is great to get confirmation. 

I was using a high temp copper/silicone sealant - good to 700 deg.  It isn't the red Toyota formagasket stuff (I have that also).  I can't use this stuff?  If it won't work, then I'll get the Toy FIPG stuff, but the closest dealer is a good 1/2 hour+ from my house.

Thanks for the offer in the tech info.  There is a good chance I'll need to take you up on that.   

[BUDDERS]

As for the silicone you are using I suggest thinking of it this way.  Would you rather drive a toyota that has the dependability of a toyota (or lexus since they are made my yota), or drive a toyota that has the dependability of a chevy?  Or try thinking of it this way:  Would you rather try and re-seal your water pump in the middle of a trail run with a v8 stuffed in already cramped engine bay or not have to worry about this ever happening? 

Note: beware that this FIPG has a hefty price tag but it is well worth the money.  I have used it to temporarily fix chewed up insulation on spark plug wires and had it last well over 60k miles - pretty good for a temp fix that it was never designed for.  I you use it properly on your water pump, the bearing on the front of the pump will go out before the gasket ever will.  Even around the shop, people hold onto this stuff like gold and never want to let someone know where they keep there extras.

I'm glad to help out with the Lexus info I have.  That's why I joined this forum and it's also where most of my expertise lies.  I was just thinking of getting one of those portable USB memory sticks and now I could use it to transport files from work to my home computer and then to you since I'm not able to access my email at work.  That way you could get colored wiring diagrams if you can open Adobe Acrobat files.

[cebby]

That would be killer on the Acrobat diagrams.  Awesome!

What does the FIPG go for (roughly).  I remember the red stuff being pricey too...  I want to do it right, so I'll spend the extra bucks for the insurance policy.  Is this something all dealers stock, or do I need to call around to see if they have it?  There are 2 dealers about 1/2 hour away (opposite directions though...)

What exactly should I ask for?

Thanks a bunch!!!

[BUDDERS]

Ask for black FIPG and yes, they all stock it.  I think it's about $18 bucks a tube.  I'd get a couple of them to make your trip worth while and stick one tube in your trail toolbox for emergencies.

[cebby]

Got two tubes of the good goo...

Toyota Seal Packaging 102 (FIPG)
P/N 00295-00103

$10/tube 

No progress unfortunately - hopefully tomorrow...

[BUDDERS]

Right on Cebby.  I just did a little looking at the earlier pics in this thread.  Did you ever figure out what you are using for a tourque convertor?  Personally, I would use the LS400 and not the Tundra.  In the 5 plus years I worked at Lexus, I never saw a tourque convertor totally lock up.  Now in the 3 plus years at Toyota, I've seen 5 Tundra's completely lock up and have to be towed into the dealership cause you can't start it and keep it running with it in gear.

Did you ever figure out the placement of the accessories on the engine.  The P/s pump goes on the right, with the alternator right under it.  The a/c compressor goes on the left, right above the oil filter.  I would try to get a Tundra p/s pump to work since I have never seen them leak and the LS/SC power steering pumps always leaked and would wipe out the alternator.  And yes, I'm PRETTY SURE that the accessories will swap from 1uz to 2uz and visa versa.  Just keep in mind that these engines had completely different ignition systems and intake configurations.

[cebby]

Right on Cebby.  I just did a little looking at the earlier pics in this thread.  Did you ever figure out what you are using for a tourque convertor?  Personally, I would use the LS400 and not the Tundra.  In the 5 plus years I worked at Lexus, I never saw a tourque convertor totally lock up.  Now in the 3 plus years at Toyota, I've seen 5 Tundra's completely lock up and have to be towed into the dealership cause you can't start it and keep it running with it in gear.

I have both - I haven't heard of probllems with the Tundra TC.  My thought was that the bigger mass and fluid capacity would aid in keeping things a little cooler.  Ultimately, I want to use what won't cause me grief.  I don't want to make a habit of pulling the trans out.  I'll use the LS one and hold on the Tundra one.

Did you ever figure out the placement of the accessories on the engine.  The P/s pump goes on the right, with the alternator right under it.  The a/c compressor goes on the left, right above the oil filter.  I would try to get a Tundra p/s pump to work since I have never seen them leak and the LS/SC power steering pumps always leaked and would wipe out the alternator.  And yes, I'm PRETTY SURE that the accessories will swap from 1uz to 2uz and visa versa.  Just keep in mind that these engines had completely different ignition systems and intake configurations.

The folks over at Lextreme chimed in on the accessories placement.  I had not heard that on the PS pump leaking, but I'd believe it.  The LS400 one I have is covered in oil.  I have a rebuild kit for it.  If it still leaks like a sieve, it will get replaced.  I also have two alternators (one junkyard, one reconditioned) and a good looking R134 compressor.  Just need the bolts for the compressor.

I couldn't get down there again today - hopefully tomorrow...

[BUDDERS]

Good call on the TC.

As for the power steering pump, yeah, I'd probably rebuild the LS400 one too.  I got pretty good at them when I worked at the "Hell with an L."  Just make sure you either replaced the vaccum valve on it or pay really close attention to make sure that the insides don't fall out of it when you rebuild the pump.  If they do, you will suck ATF into the intake and hydrolock your motor.  I'm sorry to say that this happened once to me and thank God that the engine didn't have any internal damage.  Sometimes you just got to learn from your mistakes....

[dj]

just thought i would throw in what little experience I have had.

A general rule on your torque converter is larger diameter = lower stall speed the low stall speed is better suitable for a 4wd application, and yes it does dissipate heat a little better.

Glad to see you went for the yota fipg. I even use it on my chevy junk.

I wanted to do this swap when the 2uz first rolled off the assembly line in the new tundras. I started accumulating parts (I formerly worked for toyota) and later opted for a gm v8 due to greater supply of low cost parts and higher parts interchangability. I may still have a power steering pump if I have not gotten rid of it it was from a wrecked 01 tundra. if I can find it you can have it for shipping costs. 

I also have a 2uz short block in need of 1 new piston engine was overheated and gaulded piston. it has right at 20k miles on it and came out of an 01 sequoia that was less than a year old jiffy lube left a radiator hose loose on it and the woman that owned it just kept on driving it until it blew the head gaskets and warped the heads.
I would like to sell this and get it out of my shop.

another cool little trick is to put the 1uz heads on the 2uz blocks but you have probably already heard about that.

also if you are have any desire, somewhere I have a bellhousing I started to build to bolt the 2uz to an sm420 trans because at the time I was bent on running a standard luckily I snapped out of it and went with a th350 auto when i finally did my swap.

if you get stuck and need some technical info I will do my best to research it out for you, I still have a lot of connections to Toyota. 

[cebby]

Just make sure you either replaced the vaccum valve on it or pay really close attention to make sure that the insides don't fall out of it when you rebuild the pump.  If they do, you will suck ATF into the intake and hydrolock your motor. 

Not that it has happened yet, but if the guts fall out, is there no way to get them back in correctly?  This concerns me, because typically, if something is going to happen like parts falling out due to inexperience, it will happen to me...

[cebby]

A general rule on your torque converter is larger diameter = lower stall speed the low stall speed is better suitable for a 4wd application, and yes it does dissipate heat a little better.

The diameter betweeen the LS and Tundra TC's seem to be very similar if not the same.  The Tundra TC is definitely deeper though (and heavier)

I may still have a power steering pump if I have not gotten rid of it it was from a wrecked 01 tundra. if I can find it you can have it for shipping costs.

SOLD!!!!  I hope you can fiind it...

I also have a 2uz short block in need of 1 new piston engine was overheated and gaulded piston. it has right at 20k miles on it and came out of an 01 sequoia that was less than a year old jiffy lube left a radiator hose loose on it and the woman that owned it just kept on driving it until it blew the head gaskets and warped the heads.
I would like to sell this and get it out of my shop.  another cool little trick is to put the 1uz heads on the 2uz blocks but you have probably already heard about that.

I'm defiinitely planning on the Alum block of the 1UZ to help save some weight.  I'm still searching for an actual weight on the 3VZE engine.  The 1UZ is only 375 lbs.

also if you are have any desire, somewhere I have a bellhousing I started to build to bolt the 2uz to an sm420 trans because at the time I was bent on running a standard luckily I snapped out of it and went with a th350 auto when i finally did my swap.

I'm going to stick out the Toy auto for now.  If I grenade it, I'll be calling Dellows for a custom BH and Flywheel to go Toy manual.

if you get stuck and need some technical info I will do my best to research it out for you, I still have a lot of connections to Toyota. 

Cool! Thanks!!

[dj]

I am going to pull out a complete 3vz-e pretty soon I will stick it on a scale to see what it weighs.

I looked for the pump some today, my shop is looking like a warzone at the moment though, I will look more this weekend. also I will check my storage building.

[cebby]

OK, take two...

Here she is all cleaned up.


The copper RTV was a major PITA to remove from the pump (those grooves do a nice job of keeping the RTV in there.  At least I learned from it.


Considerably less this time, plus I smeared it around to make sure it was even.


Side view


Waterpump back on (sorry a little fuzzy)


Got the thermostat housing back on also (a pre-schmear pic...)


Even got the cams lined up properly while installing the timing belt this time.




Idlers reinstalled also...


Crank pulley and cover back on too


This is as far as I got yesterday (I did this AFTER replacing the waterpump, thermostat and changing the oil on my 2000 JGC)

[BUDDERS]

Right on Cebby      Now go have a couple of     You deserve it        

[dj]

I am going to pull out a complete 3vz-e pretty soon I will stick it on a scale to see what it weighs.

I looked for the pump some today, my shop is looking like a warzone at the moment though, I will look more this weekend. also I will check my storage building.

I cleaned the shop and did not come across the pump so I am not sure if I still have it. but I will continue to keep an eye out for it.

[b_ripper8]

Awesome swap.

[raybie]

what's the lastest is it in and burning up the road?

[cebby]

Timely post Raybie...

I guess it's time for an update.  After a long absence, I've been able to spend some quality time with the 4Runner this week.  Three separate sessions.  Maybe a total of 5 hours or so (?).

Last week, I discovered that the gantry hoist that was at my disposal was too short (due to ceiling height) for me to pull the motor and clear the radiator core support, so I got a folding "Sams Club special" hoist.  I think it was around $169.  I'm not adding that time into the swap, since I had wanted to get a hoist anyway.

Session #1
Remove stubborn as a mo-fo driveshaft bolts.  This seemed to take forever.  Each took a breaker bar and several hard whacks with a deadblow.  Pulled the driveshafts.  I found it easier to remove the bolts at the diffs - the tcase end seemed to be pressed/rusted in place.  I was able to knock these out afterwards, but not while on the vehicle.




Also removed the motormount bolts, disconnected the fuel line, throttle cable, tranny dipstick bracket, tranny fluid lines that went to the radiator, steering stabilizer, shift linkage and a few other misc little things I had missed before.  I also took a sawzall to the downpipe at this point.

Here's the downpipe cut - I got in there where I could.  I unbolted those two bracket bolts and the bracket dropped to the floor - it probably should have been attached...


Session #2
At this point, the motor is free enough to lift it up and pull forward so I can get at the top transmission bolts.  I'm convinced that there is absolutely no way in hell these can be removed any other way since these took a long breaker bar to bust them loose.  I removed the top 4 bolts and also removed the starter (let it hang).  At this point, I also unplugged the wiring that was on top of the front of the trans.  I think I only cracked one connector.  The vehicle IS 13 years old.




Dropped the motor/trans back down to the motor mounts and went to work on the other bellhousing bolts.  All the while I had the trans/tcase supported by one floorjack with the HF trans jack adapter.  This thing works OK, but it is way too tall unless you have your vehicle up on jack stands,some sort of hoist, or a bigger lift/tires - but OK for supporting it while I pulled the motor. There are a few more wiring connectors that need to be removed at this point from the back end of the trans/tcase.

To separate the engine from the trans, I took a long piece of tubing (about 5') and with the engine/trans combo lifted back up slightly (so I could get a sightline to where the BH meets the engine), I took the piece of tube, threaded it through the core support and put it on the edge of the BH flange and gave ti a few whacks with a deadblow.  After getting it separated about 1/2", I started to violently yank the hoist back and forth until the engine separated from the trans completely.  I was finally able to get the 3.0 up and out.  Even with the better clearance of the hoist, I had to lift the engine to the point where the end of the lifting arm was up between the ceiling joists, so I had to do a little monkeying to get the engine over core suppport, but under the joists to a skid I had nearby.  That empty engine bay is the most reward part of this swap so far.



FINALLY!!!

Session #3
I have limited overhead space and didn't want to mess with trying to lift the 4Runner OVER the trans and jack - so with a combo of low profile floorjacks and some finagling, I was able to get the unit safely to the smooth concrete floor where I could drag it out from under.  When putting the new trans back in, I really need to modify the HF trans adapter so it isn't so freakishly tall.  I don't think I really need the pivot function anyway - didn't use it so far.  Fortunately, there are at least 4 floorjacks floating around the shop I'm working in.  That was one heavy mutha...








Coming up next - 1UZ to do's (modify fan hydro pump - turn into idler pulley, remove cut-off exhaust collector flange studs, replace fuel rail o-rings, reassemble engine intake, plugs, wires, caps, do cosmetic stuff, mount up the wiring harness, etc), Trans to do's (run oil coolant lines and prep for aux cooler, figure out wiring), and finally Tcase to do's (install 4.7's and doubler assembly) and driveshaft length changes, etc.

At least I finally made some REAL progress...

[raybie]

engine hoists are over rated.  looks like my weekend project.

[BUDDERS]

Wow, that was the coolest engine hoist, I think I've ever seen 

[cebby]

Wow, that was the coolest engine hoist, I think I've ever seen 

Kind of tough to use that one inside though...