Author Topic: High output alternators (Read 7626 times)

Toy1 · « **on:** Feb 09, 2009, 11:13:54 AM »

Hello,
Does anyone have the Toyota High output alternators from North West Offroad?
I wonder if it is a good product?

Thanks

brainlessfool · « **Reply #1 on:** Feb 09, 2009, 06:20:58 PM »

seen other ppl talking about them, seems the gen thought is stay away. pita

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #2 on:** Feb 09, 2009, 07:23:50 PM »

$300 for the 100 amp, i installed a second alt for free

OOPS · « **Reply #3 on:** Feb 09, 2009, 08:33:12 PM »

Stay away from NWOR !!!!

Here is a thread on the High-Amp I put on my 3.0. Embedded in the thread is a link for putting one on a 22r.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=458156&highlight=OOP%27S

Toy1 · « **Reply #4 on:** Feb 12, 2009, 12:05:31 PM »

Okey thanks

Can I ask why everyone say stay away??

OOPS · « **Reply #5 on:** Feb 12, 2009, 09:23:18 PM »

Quote from: Toy1 on Feb 12, 2009, 12:05:31 PM

Okey thanks
Can I ask why everyone say stay away??

1. Their products suck.

2. NWOR means No Warranty Or Return.

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #6 on:** Feb 13, 2009, 06:03:27 AM »

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on Feb 09, 2009, 07:23:50 PM

$300 for the 100 amp, i installed a second alt for free

Holy crap, my GM 100 amp cost me $65.

John Doe · « **Reply #7 on:** Feb 13, 2009, 06:15:13 AM »

I got quoted a littler under $300 for a bolt in 140amp delivered from http://www.excessiveamperage.com/

joey0712 · « **Reply #8 on:** Feb 13, 2009, 08:47:32 AM »

just put a gm one wire alternator on. There is a guy that makes a bracket i think. I can get his email if u want.

Wermz84 · « **Reply #9 on:** Feb 13, 2009, 09:39:08 AM »

Quote from: OOPS on Feb 12, 2009, 09:23:18 PM

1. Their products suck.

2. NWOR means No Warranty Or Return.

And their customer service is terrible.

John Doe · « **Reply #10 on:** Feb 13, 2009, 09:49:57 AM »

Quote from: joey0712 on Feb 13, 2009, 08:47:32 AM

just put a gm one wire alternator on. There is a guy that makes a bracket i think. I can get his email if u want.

Need info, including amps and $ of bracket. Bolt in, plug and play?

joey0712 · « **Reply #11 on:** Feb 13, 2009, 12:18:38 PM »

Yes it is bolt on all u need is a Chevy one wire alternator. I emailed the guy and he said 65 shipped and he is out of stock till next month.

OOPS · « **Reply #12 on:** Feb 13, 2009, 01:10:44 PM »

If you would read the thread I posted you would see that both I (3.0 V-6) and Erik (22r) used the stock mounting brackets. They are both GM type alternators, 3-wire. We bought them at Summit for about $150.00. Mine is 160 amp, 80 at idle. Powermaster also makes an on-board welder that these alternators will support.

emsvitil · « **Reply #13 on:** Feb 13, 2009, 01:53:26 PM »

Rather than changing out the alternator, is there room to add an alternator?

2 lower capacity alternators would be less expensive than 1 high capacity, plus they'd probably last longer because they'd generate less heat.

And even if 1 crapped out, you'd still have the other to limp home on............

tryn2Crawl · « **Reply #14 on:** Feb 14, 2009, 12:21:54 PM »

What about a MEAnGreen alternator?.Other than pricey......?

peacesells · « **Reply #15 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 06:35:40 PM »

I found a buick alt at the junkyard, bolts right up and is the 1 wire style. Cant remember what it came off of, just take the hole to hole measurments and start scavenging at the boneyard. $13 110 amps.

CrawlerBrennan · « **Reply #16 on:** Mar 01, 2009, 10:49:27 PM »

what does the factory toyota one put out?

John Doe · « **Reply #17 on:** Mar 02, 2009, 10:35:55 AM »

60 amps for my 85 22re

joey0712 · « **Reply #18 on:** Apr 05, 2009, 07:45:04 PM »

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=57113.0;topicseen

jimbo74 · « **Reply #19 on:** Apr 05, 2009, 07:47:17 PM »

Quote from: John Doe on Mar 02, 2009, 10:35:55 AM

60 amps for my 85 22re

i run a 60 amp on my 84.... my 84 was equipped with an external regulated 40 amp unit....

i did a little rewiring and run a 60 amp internal regulator from a 85 22r

joey0712 · « **Reply #20 on:** Apr 05, 2009, 07:54:38 PM »

Y do that when for about 100 bucks u could be charging at 100 amps..... 55 the the bracket and 50 or so the the alternator......

Joey88RUNR · « **Reply #21 on:** Apr 07, 2009, 09:22:58 PM »

I wonder If you can have the factory toyota alternator rebuilt at a higher amp rating, or maybe that might cost to much, anyone done this?

TacoRunner · « **Reply #22 on:** Apr 08, 2009, 09:19:13 AM »

Yes you can, thats why I did this.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=56519.msg705616#new

jimbo74 · « **Reply #23 on:** Apr 09, 2009, 12:27:40 AM »

joey, i did what i did not for the upgrade, but because i was doing an engine swap and already had the internally regulated alternator. the truck didn't have an alternator when i got it, just the regulator on the fender... the extra 20 amps and going with newer technology of the internally regulated alternator was a bonus... 20 amps more than the stock 40 is quite a lot... my truck is carbed, so it probably doesn't even need more than it's 40 anyways

66cobra · « **Reply #24 on:** Apr 09, 2009, 05:47:37 AM »

if you get a 1 wire remember that it will not charge at low rpm's the power master trigers at @ 2000 rpm's <alt shaft speed>

Aaronn · « **Reply #25 on:** Apr 11, 2009, 10:25:14 AM »

Quote from: 66cobra on Apr 09, 2009, 05:47:37 AM

if you get a 1 wire remember that it will not charge at low rpm's the power master trigers at @ 2000 rpm's <alt shaft speed>

not true...Quote from Power Master

A one wire alternator has a turn on point (sometimes called cut in, which is typically 1200 engine RPMs). This is the speed where the internal sense circuitry connects the battery to the voltage regulator, thereby turning the alternator on. Once the voltage regulator turns on, the alternator will remain on and charging until the engine comes to a complete stop. If the engine idle speed and pulley ratio combination do not allow the alternator to come up to this point during starting, the engine will have to be revved up to turn the one wire alternator on. The sense circuitry in the one-wire regulator can be bypassed to excite the alternator as soon as the ignition switch is turned on. This is called three-wire operation. This means the alternator will not be dependent on reaching a certain turn on RPM.

66cobra · « **Reply #26 on:** Apr 11, 2009, 04:24:11 PM »

just got one from p.m. 168 amps and has to be turning past switch on rpm's to charge they recommended to run at 1500 rpm [motor speed] to maintain good charge output while in heavy use.was a little concerned about it due to sometimes i will use the winches heavily. not worth debating ,this is what p.m. told me directly from tech support when i orderd .this is for a 1 wire alt only

854RUN · « **Reply #27 on:** Apr 14, 2009, 09:38:16 AM »

Use a Sequoia or Tundra alt, I put one in my T100 for $80. it puts out 130amp.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=35174.60

Toy1 [OP]

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