Interesting alternator problem

[Rebeltilldeath3]

August - Original alt. burned out
February - 2nd one burned out
March - 3rd one burned out


Everytime I change it out, I get charge.  Today I had this latest burned out one tested, 15 amps, still good, yet I don't get a charge.  It doesn't make sense that everytime I replace an alternator that I get charge back if there's a short or bad connection.  I can only guess it's one of the leads going to the alternator.

Anyone have any similar problems before?

[brainlessfool]

15 amps?!?!?! that's nothing! should be alest 45 amps, depending on what alt. ya's got.

[Ferg]

check your ground connections at the firewall, frame, engine and battery.  Loose or corroded ground will ruin most electricals

read this thread  http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=9971.0

[Rebeltilldeath3]

There is a fairly thick wire coming out of the firewall, just to the drivers side of the head, has a pretty hefty grommet.  What is it?  The wire has a pretty nice gash in it.

[Uncle Jesse]

I believe on the later models the two white wires, about 10 gauge are the alternator wires.  At least one goes to a junction block on the fender, then goes across the core support and over to the fuse box to either a 60 or 80 amp buss fuse.  Then there is also a couple smaller gauge wires to the alternator, I don't recall the colors.  Just follow the harness from the alternator out and make sure everything is ok.  Some trucks the harness winds up laying on the steering shaft and could chaf the insulation.  15 amps won't run much, so if you have the engine and lights on, it may not have enough juice left to charge the battery.
There should be a ground wire on the back of the head, one from the block to the fender, and one from the fender to the battery.

[guywithuglyyota]

I had the chafing problem with my steering shaft (that sounds bad huh) Your battery could be the coulprit as well. They can cause finicky electrical problems sometimes. I say inspect the crap out of your wires.