Author Topic: Front hanger location..... (Read 5687 times)

mdtrail-toy · « **on:** Nov 23, 2015, 06:40:51 PM »

O.k. so before I start please be easy on me. Im aware of the how to use the search bar

But this question may have more variables and is likely more opinion then solid answer. Front S.A.S. hanger location? like many others probably did I spent years planning and months collecting parts for the swap and probably read every build thread I could find. I am completely stoked im actually getting to tear it down and get it done this weekend. Its going on a 90' ex-cab with All pro 4" springs. going for the D.D. solid weekend truck trying to keep axel in general stock location. certainly would like to keep steering box as is but know that may be an issue no matter were the hanger is set. Once my steering is on I will deal with that. So I guess my question is what would you guys recommend with these springs on a 3rd gen. Flush mount or 3/4" forward . already have frame tubes done and going to tack in the hanger soon any opinions would be great. Long post for a likely simple answer Thanks

84Flatbed · « **Reply #1 on:** Nov 23, 2015, 07:02:22 PM »

I'm thinking flush. The allpro springs are a little shorter than some others so your shackle angle would be steep if you move the hanger forward. I'm sure allpro has instructions on their site. The safest way is going to be tacking the hanger on then setting the vehicle weight on the springs and looking at your shackle angle.

jangelfire · « **Reply #2 on:** Nov 23, 2015, 07:03:13 PM »

If the frame tubes are already installed, your shackle angle will determine where the hanger has to be.all pro springs flush mounted moves axle forward 1.5".when i did my truck i flush mounted the hanger and shackle angle told me where to drill my frame holes. Mine sits like this with 4" allpros and 37s

jangelfire · « **Reply #3 on:** Nov 23, 2015, 07:08:27 PM »

And i highly recommend less than 45 degree shackle angle with the new springs.ecspecally if you run a bumper and winch.they will sag after you beat the crap out of it for a few weekends

OOPS · « **Reply #4 on:** Nov 23, 2015, 07:09:44 PM »

You do not need to tack the spring hanger. What I did was mount the axle and springs with the shackles and the hanger. Then I put the hanger where I though it should be and used "C" clamps to hold it in place. I started out with it flush. Took it off the jack stands and put in on all fours. Seen if I like the shackle angle. If I was happy with it (which I was) I made sure it was centered and tack it up.

I do not know if they are still the same way but A-P's hanger used to be made to be mounted in two different positions, one way was for stock length 79-85 springs and if you flipped it around it was for their longer springs. This is the way it was when I did my SAS in 1999, I do not know if they are still made that way.

Tjcarter · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 04, 2015, 12:48:15 PM »

Any update on this?? I set mine up by tacking the hanger in the front then lowering the vehicle down on just the rear of the spring where the shackle would normally go. That compresses the spring. Go straight up off the middle of your spring eyelet and mark on your frame where you want your frame tube. If its interfering with your body mount, move the front hanger forward enough so that the frame tube sits right between the body mount supports, tack it, and retest. You will want the shackle nearly vertical in the beginning because your springs will break in and the shacke angle will grow as the springs sag more. You'd hate to start it at 45 then when your springs settle after a few runs, you could be bottoming out your springs and hitting your shackle literally on your frame. That's how i did it and I love how it's set up...

mdtrail-toy · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 04, 2015, 07:17:17 PM »

I actually got my whole front end done last weekend. except for a few small things, bumpstop ext. , shock hoops , brake line clips I made to replace what was removed with ifs.. Over all I am extreamly happy as never having done it before and same with my help. I'd like to think im pretty mechanicly inclined. Fixing , fabing , and just plain figuring stuff out but with that said I havnt learned to weld yet and sure as hell wasn't going to have this be my learning experience So my welder while very competent was a 20yr old college kid on a 3 day thanksgiving break . So keeping him focused and here long enough , he was out chasing girls and racing cars ,damb kids. Was a tall task. With the frame tubes, I slid the jigs full forward in the body mount and had the hanger flush mounted. I was fairly happy with it at first, fully aware the springs would settle. And this is were his impatient's came in. shackle were a little back from vertical so with him going back to collage in the a.m. and my patients running thin with him I gave him the o.k. to burn it on for good. But now 4 days later shackle angle looks perfect I think about 3deg. but I have not drove it more than just out of my shop. I have a bad feeling in a month or two im not going to be real happy with it. already driving crazy to the point that I want to just cut it off and start over

. im not worried about hitting the frame or body mount it's not that bad, just don't want a bad angle . Anyways long story short on a V6 defenetly DO NOT FLUSH MOUNT. then again im extreamly picky about details so maybe its not that bad. if I can figure out how to post pics I will Thanks Bryden

mdtrail-toy · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 04, 2015, 07:45:34 PM »

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mdtrail-toy · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 04, 2015, 07:52:09 PM »

ok cool I just figured how to post pictures. those were just two test shots to try and get it working. I will get better one up in the morning. as always the pictures don't look the same as in person but your thoughts? I wish I new how to do that before but now I can start a build thread when I can find the time so I don't have to clutter up all the sections with a new thread for every question I have . Thanks for your help and info guys

Its tough getting good info out here on the east coast

mdtrail-toy · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 04, 2015, 07:53:58 PM »

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mdtrail-toy · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 05, 2015, 04:47:30 AM »

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Tjcarter · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 07, 2015, 12:46:51 PM »

It doesnt look bad, have you tried flexing it to see how far up it'll go and how close the shackel gets to the frame? I redid mine after learning the right way to do it because the shackle was hitting my body mount and driving me nuts (i'm very particular). Preferrably, you'd have that shackle a little more vertical right from the git go...

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #12 on:** Dec 07, 2015, 12:54:46 PM »

If it bothers you have a local machine shop blow a set of boomerang shackles out on the waterjet.

84Flatbed · « **Reply #13 on:** Dec 07, 2015, 01:38:21 PM »

What do you measure from center of shackle mount (frame) to center of front spring hanger hole?

mdtrail-toy · « **Reply #14 on:** Dec 07, 2015, 02:49:16 PM »

I haven't yet been able to get out and flex it just received my flat pitman arm and box relocation plates. At this point re doing the hanger would be a nightmare if not absoloutly needed. Front center hole to frame shackle center is 44 1/4" on the nose. Center to center spring is 46 1/2". Shackle is 25 deg. But I did finally get some one over here to help me do my chevy's, that has done a few sas's and he thought it looked pretty good. And again it does ....... until it settles. On the bright side did my rear 63's and I couldn't ask for a better front to back height just tall enough up front that it should settle out perfect. But now with the pic's and measurement's any thought's Thanks for the info as always

84Flatbed · « **Reply #15 on:** Dec 07, 2015, 08:47:47 PM »

I think you'll be fine. If you wanted to youcould undo the leaf from the shackle and then swing the shackle until you measure 46 1/2" center to center from hanger to shackle. If you have to you can clearance the body mount, very common, or go boomerang shackles.

mdtrail-toy · « **Reply #16 on:** Dec 08, 2015, 05:01:04 AM »

Yea maybe it's just me over analysing every thing as I do with every part of my truck. Hell it usually take me 5 min to put my license plate stickers on to make sure their straight. Again I don't think I'm worried about hitting the body mount to the point that I would need boomerang shackles. Just don't want a lazy angle in turn scrappy ride feel. But guess I should at least give it a little time before I make myself to crazy. Hell haven't even driven it 10 ft yet.

mdtrail-toy · « **Reply #17 on:** Dec 08, 2015, 02:01:41 PM »

Now without having to clog up this page with another un needed thread this is my rear chevy angle right at 15 deg. But only tacked on right now. Working with a much more capable and patient welder on the back end. I know all about 20 - 40 deg being optimal. Actually going for less angle .Still would like to be able carry some load in my bed with better street manners. To vertical? Or just roll with it?
Yep just high jacked my own thread
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jangelfire · « **Reply #18 on:** Dec 08, 2015, 02:24:37 PM »

Id go a little more but thats just me.

mdtrail-toy · « **Reply #19 on:** Dec 08, 2015, 06:53:31 PM »

I concur . After looking at it everytime I walk out my door the last few days I think I will try and push the rear hanger up just a bit and try to get a little closer to 25deg.

mdtrail-toy · « **Reply #20 on:** Dec 12, 2015, 07:00:43 PM »

Update at least on the rear 63's. Finally got the rear bunt in for good. But i moved the shackle hangers forward 1 1/2" which put me right at 30deg. Much much better. Lost the perfect front to back stance but I'd rather add to the pack than have no up or down travel

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mdtrail-toy · « **Reply #21 on:** Dec 14, 2015, 12:24:56 PM »

without starting an un needed useless thread has anyone ever used a Toyota 2.5" add a leaf on a chevy 3" pack . it would only be temporary until I can get out to pickup a new 3" pack for a little extra height

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