Topic: Brake troubles

[YotaNME]

Ok, so a while back I was replacing my front third member and when I disconnected my front calipers I just let my brake lines run dry.  When I was all said and done replacing the third I went to bleed the brakes and the brake pedal was going straight to the floor.  I was still getting brake pressure but it was a very small amount.  I replaced the brake booster and still was getting very little amount of pressure.  Both times i bench bleed the master cylinder.  I noticed that I had a bend brake line going to the rear passenger drum so I replaced that. Sill no change. Soon after I replaced that line the rear driver side wheel cylinder started to leak.  Replaced that and while bleeding the brakes again the wheel cylinder blew.  Any ideas on what the problem could be would be greatly appreciated.

[81 shortbed]

You didn't by chance get the front brake line and bleeder screw reversed in a caliper did you? I did this once on a Nissan and had the same symptoms.

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[GRW]

Had something like that happen with our 2X ended up replacing the new master & booster (2 X each, pain) but after the 2nd time it was all good. Fairly sure the 1st new booster was the problem.

[YotaNME [OP]]

I didn't take the bleeder screw out of the calipers so I don't think it is that but I will just to be sure. I took another master cylinder off a buddys rig and it didn't help.  Could the calipers be seized up just from draining the brake fluid out?

[Prismo]

Check the bleeder screws to make sure they are not plugged up with dirt or rust also.

[OOPS]

Is this how you bled the brakes?

"...This is from the FSM and it works great..."
1. Drivers side rear
2. Passenger side rear
3. Passenger side front
4. Drivers side front
5. LSPV (Load sensing proportioning valve)

[Rocksurfer]

Sounds like you let all your seals dry out, not a good idea. Try what OOPS posted that is the correct way to bleed the system. Also if you let the master cyl. go dry too, you may also need to bleed it, best way is to bench bleed but it can be done when mounted.

[YotaNME [OP]]

Ya I just tried bleeding that way. They still aren't compressing. I'm going to replace the calipers and go from there.

[Dirt Mover]

If you took the calipers off completely and mixed them up (left and right) you won't be able to get all of the air out

[Snowtoy]

I don't think it is your calipers, if one of the pistons were stuck you wouldn't have "no pedal pressure", besides buying new calipers is a waste of money when you can rebuild them for less than $20.  My bet is you still have air in the lines from when you removed the calipers and let the brake fluid drip out while you changed the diff.  If you think the calipers are bad, I would rebuild them, and then re-bleed the entire system with new fluid starting with the drivers rear until new clear brake fluid comes out, then do the rest, it will be the only way to know for sure that you have removed all of the air from the system, seeing how you have also had the MC off as well as the brake cylinder.

[Wainiha]

Is this how you bled the brakes?

"...This is from the FSM and it works great..."
1. Drivers side rear
2. Passenger side rear
3. Passenger side front
4. Drivers side front
5. LSPV (Load sensing proportioning valve)

I have a 2000 Tacoma.  Does this order of operations apply to my truck?

[Snowtoy]

If the rear brake lines on the Tacoma travel across and down the Passenger's side like they do on the previous generations, then it would be the same.

[OOPS]

I have a 2000 Tacoma.  Does this order of operations apply to my truck?

Do not know, I do not have a Tacoma. You want to bleed from the longest line to the shortest line measured from the MC, If the Tacos have a LSPV you want to do it last because it is the next to the highest component in the system and air travels up. The MC is the highest component in the system. The MC is mounted with the nose pointed up, that is the reason you have to bench bleed it with the barrel level.

[Wainiha]

Ok I always have bled the longest line to the shortest.  I did not know about bleeding the LSPV when I first got my truck.  Axle seal failed and had to disconnect the brake line to pull the axle....no wonder I couldn't get it right.  I have read, now long ago, about it. 

Doing it last is news to me.  Makes sense though, thanks.

[dt]

I am with snowtoy and oops,I think you need to do a complete bleed,I want to mention that I just did my front diff. and what I did was tie up my calipers with bailing wire.and on the rears I have small clamps that go on the rubber line,so there is less bleeding in general. also OOPS,could you please tell me the correct method of bleeding the LSPV,thanks

[Dirt Mover]

Update? Did you figure it out?