Spool vs locker

Started by Saved-wheeler, July 02, 2013, 07:43:02 PM

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Saved-wheeler

So, I could not think of any place better to ask this question than the n00b forum, so without further adoo.  I have heard a lot about lockers and I understand what they do but I am confused about spools and anything else in the (locker family). If someone could clarify this question for me that would be great.

Rocksurfer

01. Search, it is your friend.
02. Spool, 100% locked 100% of the time.
03. Welded Spider Gears, operates like above
03. Air Locker, an air activated locker when deactivated operates like an open diff
04. E-Locker, an electrically activated locker  that operates like above
05. Manual Locker, a manually activated locker that operates like above
06. Auto Locking Diff, locker that automatically releases when cornering while decelerating and locks in under load.
07. Limited Slip, power biasing slip diff.   
The Ghost-Rider/Ghost Runner

No matter how far you fall, the ground will always catch you

Rocksurfer

The Ghost-Rider/Ghost Runner

No matter how far you fall, the ground will always catch you

Saved-wheeler

 :biggthumpup:awesome advice thanks!  I'm going to read that wiki! It's awesome how helpful people are on this board.

H8PVMNT

All you need to know is that if you put in some kind of positive traction devise, be it locker or spool you can wheel about 300% more stuff with ease.  What you use comes down to price and personal prefference.

Wheel On.
"I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth."
– Steve McQueen

"Except for maybe Seattle."  -H8PVMNT

"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

"I'm jealous of your shop. It has concrete and doesn't smell like pickles like the old shop  "  300K

Snowtoy

One more thing to add, lockers will push you around on the trail, which you have to be able to compensate for to get on the line you want/get stay on the line you want, this is why they shouldn't be used by beginners.  If you are new to the hobby(say less than a few 3-400 trail hours), you should opt for a selectable locker like the ARB.  This way you can use it only when needed, and not make your wheeling experience harder on you.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

lone walker

Selectable locker is the way to go!! For me at least :P
Going, going, gone

twistedtoy92

i just weld my rear spiders :biggthumpup: baller on a budget style  :smokin: welded/spooled fronts suck for steering though!
2005 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro 380 AWHP @ 24psi
1993 Toyota Pickup http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=72886.msg866982#msg866982
1992 Toyota Pickup http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=49319.msg616251#msg616251
1985 4runner http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=60737.msg745263#msg745263

"TRIPLE CASES GETS YOU LAID." -BigMike

"I daily drive this thang everyday." (swapped89)

Saved-wheeler

 :clap: great input again, so in a sense does a selectable locker make the hobby "harder"?  In my research selectable lockers are pretty pricey and then with let's say an arb locker you need a compressor. What is a good affordable alternative? Granted I would probably get the best set up if I could afford it. For when the time comes how hard are the installs, I'm guessing there is a how to forum on he for a basic install?

lone walker

Cheapest of all selectable locker will be elocker. You can usually find a complete third for about 3-400 bucks. Can never go wrong with that, you can manually lock them as well.
Going, going, gone

Snowtoy

#10
Quote from: Saved-wheeler on July 03, 2013, 08:03:52 PM
:clap: great input again, so in a sense does a selectable locker make the hobby "harder"?
A locker will make trails you find difficult with open diffs easier or will allow you to take a harder line through the sections where you normally take the easier routes, however they can also make the trail harder for the reason stated in an earlier post, the selectable is no different, but at least with it, you can turn it off when not needed.

QuoteIn my research selectable lockers are pretty pricey and then with let's say an arb locker you need a compressor. What is a good affordable alternative? Granted I would probably get the best set up if I could afford it.
Yes they do cost about double of what an auto locker costs, but having the ability to run open diffs on the street and in the snow, icey, or wet roads, is a benefit, and with less tire wear than an auto locker, the difference in prices could be recouped by your second or third set of tires, if your trail rig is also your daily driver.  As with the Toyota e-locker, you can find ARB's used, I did($450), often set up with 4.88 or 5.29 gears for around $5-750, and sometimes in complete axles for around $5-1000.  You also can run them off any air source(when regulated), so you don't need to buy the pricey ARB compressor.  I run mine off a parts store vlt compressor and fabricated air tank, total cost $70(includes hose and fitting), I could have purchased a 1 gallon tank, but I like to save money when/where I can.

QuoteFor when the time comes how hard are the installs, I'm guessing there is a how to forum on he for a basic install?
Bench labor to install an ARB runs about $200, not all that more than auto lockers.  If you are mechanically capable you can usually do an auto locker or spool yourself.  The best way to do a locker is when you regear the diffs for taller tires, then it is basically a bolt in procedure.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

Saved-wheeler

Ok, thank you! I think I am going to start looking for a used one. 

Rocksurfer

Quote from: H8PVMNT on July 03, 2013, 08:24:30 AM
All you need to know is that if you put in some kind of positive traction devise, be it locker or spool you can wheel about 300% more stuff with ease.  What you use comes down to price and personal prefference.

Wheel On.

Well then, I guess when I add a locker to my current 4Runner it is going to climb inverse! :rofl:

I've always trained my little wheelers in open rigs, learn the right way to wheel then learn with a traction device. It will give you better judgement and a better wheeler overall.
The Ghost-Rider/Ghost Runner

No matter how far you fall, the ground will always catch you

New83


zembalayan

#14
Quote from: Snowtoy on July 05, 2013, 12:23:42 AM
A locker will make trails you find difficult with open diffs easier or will allow you to take a harder line through the sections where you normally take the easier routes, however they can also make the trail harder for the reason stated in an earlier post, the selectable is no different, but at least with it, you can turn it off when not needed.
Yes they do cost about double of what an auto locker costs, but having the ability to run open diffs on the street and in the snow, icey, or wet roads, is a benefit, and with less tire wear than an auto locker, the difference in prices could be recouped by your second or third set of tires, if your trail rig is also your daily driver.  As with the Toyota e-locker, you can find ARB's used, I did($450), often set up with 4.88 or 5.29 gears for around $5-750, and sometimes in complete axles for around $5-1000.  You also can run them off any air source(when regulated), so you don't need to buy the pricey ARB compressor.  I run mine off a parts store vlt compressor and fabricated air tank, total cost $70(includes hose and fitting), I could have purchased a 1 gallon tank, but I like to save money when/where I can.
Bench labor to install an ARB runs about $200, not all that more than auto lockers.  If you are mechanically capable you can usually do an auto locker or spool yourself.  The best way to do a locker is when you regear the diffs for taller tires, then it is basically a bolt in procedure.

I agree with SnowToy on what he's written above, and I would like to add that if you are going with a selectable (ARBs are the best IMHO), then DEFINITELY get your diffs  / lockers set up by someone who is very good at doing them.  Marlin Crawler is truly one of the best.  I have run several diffs set up by Rocky at Marlin Crawler without any problems.  Many others have said the same about them.  That being said, I have done the dumb / convenient thing in the past, and I have had two ARBs set up by local Bay Area shops, which ended in failures, one of which destroyed the ARB's casing and required a total ARB locker rebuild.  Was it eventually fixed and made right? -- sort of yeah.  Do I better appreciate my other problem free diffs that were set up by Marlin Crawler and Sean at River City Differential? -- 100% Yes!

Again, my recommendation above all is to get someone really good like Marlin Crawler to build your diffs, if you are getting a locker.  If you are getting an ARB used, make sure that you check to see if it holds air, and ALSO inspect the engagement or have someone else who is very good check it out.  Again, after I had that destroyed ARB / diff warrantied and repaired by the guy who initially set it up for failure , I did not trust it , and I took  it to someone else very good and had it re-checkedd and inspected  only to find and see first hand for myself that the repaired /warrantied set up was way off and needed to be re-shimmed, etc.=more time and money wasted.  It can be so disappointing to pay big bucks for something that is destined to leave you stranded on the trail or the highway simply because so many guys and and fab shops make light out of the precision and skill it takes to do a great set up.


J+S Crawler

I have always had selectable lockers (ARB). But recently purchased a truck with Detroit rear and a Detroit truetrac front. I prefer the selectable lockers but have been pleasantly surprised with the new setup.