cracked frame suggestions and fabrications

[4-lo]

Ok so I hit 65+ and the ride starts to rattle like unbalanced tires but futher investigation I found this..

[4-lo]

What are some ideas out there.  Looks like the hanger and mount has to come off.

[4-lo]

And lets see some pic of any like this

[Nimyad]

Well that's not good at all, where is it located on the frame? Front, middle, back? Looks like the front. I'd cut off the front in front of the firewall and add some rectangle tube. Like this guy did, pics towards the bottom of the page
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/1029246-khione-runner-3.html

[IronClad]

weld it up and brace it

[4-lo]

Its in the front just right behind the hanger you can make it out in the pic

[4-lo]

Another angle

[Teran H.]

damn! 


weld it up!

[OOPS]

You need to plate that. I would plate all the way back to the motor mount. I would use at least .250 plate and plate both sides of each rail top and bottom. Drill holes at the end of each crack and weld the crack then grind it down and plate. Drill holes in the plates and also rosette weld the holes.

I also run a brace back on the frame from the spring hanger back about six inches.

If you do it right it will be stronger then stock.

When I do SAS's I always run the brace from the spring hanger back along the frame. It is something I feel the vendors should do when the make the hangers IMHO!!!!

[OOPS]

damn!  weld it up!

You cannot just "weld it up", it has to be plated or it will crack again.

[4-lo]

You cannot just "weld it up", it has to be plated or it will crack again.

X2 thats what im fearing

[jrock]

Like Oops said; weld, plate and brace. I'd cut the body mount so you can get a plate all the way to the front of the frame and continue it back past the engine mount. I think .250" is a bit much, I used .188".

[4-lo]

f**k this morning took a bottle of degreaser to the other side and found that there is also a crack in it too.  My guess is that there is too much pressure on the hanger with little support.

[Dingman.]

I cant view the pictures currently,   however my it.sounds like what happened to mine.

I welded the cracks, ground the welds down.   Welded metal to the sides of the frame to cover the welds. And then i welded square tube from the back side of the hangar along the under side of the frame.  So far so good! 

[jrock]

This is a very common problem with the solid axle Yotas, more so if you drive them hard, add drop hanger, large tires, blah blah blah. Everything rides on the front hanger and the frame at the point just behind the hanger. It needs to be braced and maybe plated. If its already cracked, it needs plating and bracing.

[BigMike]

Yikes that's nasty. Follow OOPS suggestions to the T. I was just discussing this in another thread earlier this week:

Get those frame cracks fixed ASAP. Don't let this happen to you on the trail:



(source: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=11671.330)

And I plated my frame back to my shock towers, inside, outside, top and bottom and also built this corner brace which is great for you-

BigMike

[jrock]

Corner braces as BigMike showed or a bar/crossmember crossing just under or ahead of the crank pulleys will help a ton to limit frame flexing.

[4-lo]

Dont know if you can see it but there is already a steering bracket on it.  But after looking at it I think im going to brace it back to the second mount or is that just over kill??

[BigMike]

I braced mine to the second bar of my MCI shock hoop (so a bit past my engine mount). The frame has internal bracing so it's probably overkill what we are doing for just Rock Crawling, but if ya got the spare steel then why not build extra insurance and prolong the life of your rig

BigMike


Sent from my iPhone4 connected to the BigMike Network using Tapatalk

[4-lo]

Thanks mike im going for the insurance for the trails.

[dropzone]

I am going to add  Big Mike's bracing..this is what I did on mine kind of like what OOP's showed:

[junya92toy]

Id grind out the crack before you weld it, or you will just be pissing in the wind if you grind it smooth after welding. Take off the weld re enforcement, without grinding the crack first, means you wont get any penetration.