Topic: crank bolt problems

[REG535]

22re (auto) crankshaft bolt (je harmonic balancer crank bolt). the 19mm one.

Left is loose and right is tight , correct?

Also tried with 19mm socket and drive with a breaker bar. with chain attached to pully so it doesn't move. Still wont loosen up. Trying a half-inch drive tomorrow and left as what i read. 
Any other thoughts?

[THK Matt]

Tap the ignition with the breaker bar on it.

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[thebigdogg]

Tap the ignition with the breaker bar on it.

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if you tap the ignition, pull the coil wire off the coil so it wont accidently start

TheBigDogg

[lone walker]

if you tap the ignition, pull the coil wire off the coil so it wont accidently start

TheBigDogg

X2

MAKE SURE YOUR COIL WIRE IS UNPLUG UNLESS YOU WANT BROKEN BRAKER BAR AND EXTENSION FLYING EVERYWHERE, MIGHT EVEN KILL YOU IF IT HIT YOU RIGHT OR WORST BREAK SOMETHING ELSE!!!!

1 - UNPLUG COIL WIRE
2 - TIE THE BREAKER BAR FIRMLY BENEATH (UNDER I SAID NOT ONTOP) YOUR FRAME JUST TO PREVENT IT FROM FALLING OUT WHILE YOU CLIMB INTO YOUR RIG
3 - SLIGHT TAP YOUR IGNITION, ALLOWING IT TO CRANK ONCE ONLY AND GO BACK OUT TO CHECK, MORE LIKELY THIS WILL WORK

OR IF ALL ELSE FAIL VISIT ---------> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhnO6fh5kn4

That should be very helpful!

[Sparkplug]

I used to do the starter bump way. I swear all the ones ive done in the last couple years, just impact yank on a 1/2 inch ratchet with the plugs in it on the right stroke. Hasnt failed me for a long time now.

[bleakhorizon]

Had one once i had to heat up... think someone used anti seize on er thou

[4-lo]

had one where they used a whole tube of lock tigth so i had to cut off the washer part of the bolt to loosen up the tension on the bolt.  only thing is youll have to have an extra bolt if you do that.

[REG535 [OP]]

Thanks for the help fellas. I will try this later today.

[REG535 [OP]]

Okay, i wonder if this is reverse thread its not is it? left is loose , righty tighty? also on a toyota chiton old manual i got says to use a gear puller, and do not remove the 10mm bolt as its for balancing purposes..

Is this a 10mm bolt, i didnt look. so maybe i just use a gear puller/pully puller to get it off? .. Cause we already got the pully off just not this big one? am i making sense.. or i still have to get this bolt out and then use a gear puller?
thx, kinda confused here, i asked my helper about the above mentoned he doesnt think it would work. we'll see what happens

[emsvitil]

You may or may not need a gear puller.    Mine just pulls off with my hands  (surprised me the first time; as I was tugging on it just for the hell of it, and it came off)

As for the center bolt:    It's a normal (lefty loosey) bolt.  I use impact wrenches on automatic transmission vehicles.


And what 10mm balance bolt, I only have the center one.......

[79coyotefrg]

You may or may not need a gear puller.    Mine just pulls off with my hands  (surprised me the first time; as I was tugging on it just for the hell of it, and it came off)

As for the center bolt:    It's a normal (lefty loosey) bolt.  I use impact wrenches on automatic transmission vehicles.


And what 10mm balance bolt, I only have the center one.......

there are normally 4 12mm bolts that hold on the power steering pulley.  breaker bar agaist the bottom of pass side frame rail and bump the starter.
good luck getting a impact in there unless you have the radiator removed.

the crank pulley isnt a harmonic balancer except on the 90's models.   

the bolt is a 14mm bolt with 19mm head

[lone walker]

You can not use a gear puller/claw until you taken off the 19mm bolt...

[REG535 [OP]]

Thanks for all the info and support. I finally got it off me and my cousin today. We finally got a 1/2 19mm socket, before we used adapters kept snapping them, and broke the heck out of a 19mm wrench. Also broke his williams ratchet.

Anyhow, we got it out with using a oxy torch, heating it up twice, and it finally came loose after ratcheting a couple of times. Everything came . slide off without the gear puller. Then like 79coyotefrg said, those other bolts on the power steering bracket. ,.. then i still couldn't get the cover off lol.
my cousin came by and used a flat pry/screwdriver with hammer and it came off... yay~ was kinda stuck on there good.. pulled it off and wow hardly any gaskets left.. but the chain, and guides still there intact, and look pretty good.

so just need new hardware, new crank bolt, new timing cover, new oil pump, water pump, belts, some hoses, and timing chain kit. will be good to go. Is BeckArnely a good choice?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Toyota/Pickup/Beck_Arnley/Timing_Chain_Kit/1985/DLX/4_Cyl_2-dot-4L/029-0113HD.html?intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Seller

or OSK? http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/replacement/wizard.asp?year=1985&make=TO&model=PUP-5-007&category=A&part=Timing+Gear+Kit

is the japan kit better, i know they both from japan, it doenst say what brand the other is just more.. or would 22re.com be good choice to get the osk brand? i wonder if bosch as one. whats another good brand thats from japan i can find? aisin would be good if i could find the kit.
 

[lone walker]

The weakest link in 22re engines are the plastic timing chain guide Toyota use in them. They break so quick and make the most annoying clicking sound ever when broken and if you are going to have a shop change them, labor/parts is around 600buck. Wont do any harm to the engine cause the guides will just fall down to the oil pan unless the chain somehow rubs against the timing cover, which the cover needs to be replaced when changing the chain.

I wouldn't use or buy OSK due to the fact the its still plastic. Beck Arnley is a bit better because the common broken plastic guide is metal and BA is a very high quality brand. But for a few bucks more, you can get it from LC and both guides will be metal. Only downfall is I don't know what brand LC uses for the timing tensioner/chain/etc, which I am more than sure they use another brand as their own. I just wont know if its CHEAP CHINA cr@p, but the guide are metal tho, thats a PLUS!

here's in the link:  http://www.lceperformance.com/22R-Single-Row-Timing-Chain-Kit-With-Metal-Guides-p/1015035.htm

If you also need a timing cover, Dorman makes the best bang for the buck when compared to Aisin.
Here is the link to Dorman T/C:  http://www.drivewire.com/search/?Ntt=timing+cover&N=0&uts=true&t_event=true

Hope this helps....

[REG535 [OP]]

I have been reading on steel vs plastic ones. To me I think I rather have the plastic guides. Rather then have the chain break with metal on metal. also the steel guides and stuff i read can take out intakes etc. Thanks for the info, too. I am doing all this with a friend. When I got the valve cover off the chain and guides look great to me. With the plastic side guide, maybe the the other side is metal hard to tell till i take that off.

I thought i wanted steel guides but after reading much, am not sure if its a good option anymore. So because i fear the steel will do more harm (if it happens then plastic) as you said. So my choices right now are BA, OSK, OEM toy (see how much it is) and yea lce might be an option now too. thanks for pointing that out. Also found a site with alot of parts i need : http://www.yotashop.com/timing-chain-kit-single-row-toyota-22r-22re-22rte-engines-1985-1995/

http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/replacement/wizard.asp?year=1985&make=TO&model=PUP-5-007&category=A&part=Timing+Gear+Kit

[emsvitil]

The chain won't get to metal on metal with the metal guides.....

The metal guides are covered with a nylon  where the chain rubs against them.


Even if you get to metal on metal, it's better than no guide at all (which is what happens with the plastic)

My OEM single row/plastic set lasted 99000 miles  (changed because of rattle (due to guide breakage))

My aftermarket lasted 46000 miles    (changed because it skipped 2 teeth (due to guide breakage))

At which point I went with the LC double row conversion kit.

[Sparkplug]

Let your truck build oil pressure before you take off. Dont coast downhill in 5th gear. Use decent oil. Your guides will last longer.

Its my belief that the tensioner takes out the guides. Everytime ive replaced a broken guide, the tensioner was shot out also. Makes sense if you actually think about it.

[REG535 [OP]]

Thanks for the tips and help. I probably will replace the tensioner with toyota part. So I narrowed my choices down. TSU brand, i never heard of, http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1985/toyota/pickup/engine_mechanical/timing_gear_kit.html or everything from toyota besides the timing cover, I can get else where.

Oh and i dont have 5th gear, auto hehe. I think my truck says like 189767 or something around 190,000 miles. and the guides/chain and everything there look new. I just cant jusitfy metal guides (i read on one forum that the metal guide with the nylon i(the chain wore down the nylon the metal guide to almost no guid was left in lest han 50,000 miles(also said i wish i would have gone with the factory setup), another said it bent his valves after the guide broke and chain broke due to metal guides) so ya, and some others from different places to get this kits said they would stay away from metal guides.
, if toyota didnt do it then am not. thanks for the advice though.
I use good oil 10w40 or 10w30 valvoine or quakerstate other time was shell

[79coyotefrg]

Let your truck build oil pressure before you take off. Dont coast downhill in 5th gear. Use decent oil. Your guides will last longer.

Its my belief that the tensioner takes out the guides. Everytime ive replaced a broken guide, the tensioner was shot out also. Makes sense if you actually think about it.

no, sorry the tensioner doesnt break the guide.  its physically not possible.  but when the plastic guide breaks making the chain flop around the tensioner extends beyond its safe distance and the friction of the chain pulls it out of the tensioner base.

Thanks for the tips and help. I probably will replace the tensioner with toyota part. So I narrowed my choices down. TSU brand, i never heard of, http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1985/toyota/pickup/engine_mechanical/timing_gear_kit.html or everything from toyota besides the timing cover, I can get else where.

Oh and i dont have 5th gear, auto hehe. I think my truck says like 189767 or something around 190,000 miles. and the guides/chain and everything there look new. I just cant jusitfy metal guides (i read on one forum that the metal guide with the nylon i(the chain wore down the nylon the metal guide to almost no guid was left in lest han 50,000 miles(also said i wish i would have gone with the factory setup), another said it bent his valves after the guide broke and chain broke due to metal guides)so ya, and some others from different places to get this kits said they would stay away from metal guides.
, if toyota didnt do it then am not. thanks for the advice though.
I use good oil 10w40 or 10w30 valvoine or quakerstate other time was shell

the coating on the metal guides is a graphite impregnated and I don't see one letting the chain rub through with anything under 150,000 miles.
and bending a valve because of a cheap or more probable a used chain with new guides is typical

[79coyotefrg]

OH, and Toyota did do it. every R engine before 1985 had metal guides. my original 20R engine had 297,000 miles on it before a rebuild. nothing but new oil and sparkplugs and the timing chain was still in "usable" condition.

[lone walker]

Thanks for the tips and help. I probably will replace the tensioner with toyota part. So I narrowed my choices down. TSU brand, i never heard of, http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1985/toyota/pickup/engine_mechanical/timing_gear_kit.html or everything from toyota besides the timing cover, I can get else where.
I just cant jusitfy metal guides (i read on one forum that the metal guide with the nylon i(the chain wore down the nylon the metal guide to almost no guid was left in lest han 50,000 miles(also said i wish i would have gone with the factory setup), another said it bent his valves after the guide broke and chain broke due to metal guides) so ya, and some others from different places to get this kits said they would stay away from metal guides.

Just use a high quality brand if not OE Toyota. Just not China made cr@p.

I had NEVER had a metal guide broken or issue as you mention. All the 22re motor I'd seen is always the opposite with plastic guide. I'd spoke with race owner with high rev full built 22re and 22rte engine and they all use metal guide.

Tensioner dont fail and cause guide to be broken. Its broken guide which cause the tensioner to fully and remain extended beyond their limit to control the slack of the chain and fail.

[lone walker]

Its your engine after all. You needed input, you got it, like it or not its from those who experience these symptom and want to share it with you.

The whole point is, just have fun with it after you're done.

my .02cent

[REG535 [OP]]

Okay thanks for all help again. I decided to go with metal guides now. Either from lce or wherever. Now just got to order parts tonight. Am looking at lce now, and amazon. I agree now that the metal guides would be better.
Also (i checked today at dealer is 364 for everything but no new cover and no new crank gear, etc, wow, i said i will think about it.) plus they cant get bolts now for the cover. but lce has them for 20 so i get them there.

[emsvitil]

Check out engine builder for the parts

http://www.engnbldr.com/

[79coyotefrg]

Check out engine builder for the parts

http://www.engnbldr.com/

he sells D&J Rock

[REG535 [OP]]

Everyone thanks for the help and support on me getting my other toy back on road. I ordered the single timing chain kit with metal guides from LCE, got the bolt kit, new crank bolt, and timing cover gaskets, and an extra set. Also got my radiator cleaned up, now just need to get a timing cover, oil pump, water pump, belts. Now I wish i would have gone with dual timing kit would have saved about 50-100 oh well and got everything. dang lol.
But, i thought  would stick with the single so yep, then spent some money on myself too. So i guess it worked out, but now just have to buy more parts, hehe. Hope to see you all on the trail, good days good nights.
This week will hopefully get it back on its shoes.(just have to remember where stuff came off from (es bolts .. )