Author Topic: New engine not running well (Read 3674 times)

LD · « **on:** Mar 20, 2012, 09:33:33 PM »

I know this topic seems to be beat to death but I can't find anything related. Here's my problem. I just dropped a new 22re into my in I rebuild. I swapped all my sensors and ran my vacuum lines the way my old engine was. It is hard to start, I have to give it gas and let the rpms drop slowly so it doesn't die. If I rev it and let the throttle drop it will die. I have adjusted the pot on the throttle body doesn't really help. Also has a rough idle. If I unplug the line to the vsv it runs better,which seems weird to me since that would be a huge vacuum leak. It does not like low rpms it runs good at higher rpms. Timing is 5 degrees And checked the tps with an ohm meter, everything was good. Any help would be much appreciated.

LD · « **Reply #1 on:** Mar 20, 2012, 10:47:14 PM »

Maybe to rich? That's why when I unplug the vacuum line it runs better since a vacuum leak would lean it out?

emsvitil · « **Reply #2 on:** Mar 20, 2012, 10:58:53 PM »

Did you reverse the rotation of the plug wires at the distributor?

LD · « **Reply #3 on:** Mar 20, 2012, 11:03:34 PM »

I don't think so they are marked on my cap what wires go where. Would the engine even run if I did?

emsvitil · « **Reply #4 on:** Mar 20, 2012, 11:08:00 PM »

Barely...

The 1 & 4 cylinders would be correct, 2 & 3 backwards.

LD · « **Reply #5 on:** Mar 20, 2012, 11:13:50 PM »

Its not that bad. It will idle if I keep it at 1000 or so

LD · « **Reply #6 on:** Mar 21, 2012, 08:32:25 PM »

Checked my afm tested bad so I put one that tested good on. Still didn't fix it so I tried a new o2 sensor. It helped and now it will idle. But now it idles real rough when it's cold and smooths out slightly when warm. I suspected vacuum, I tried starter fluid, propane, smoke to check for leaks and can't find anything. Checked my egr. Still running like crap. I'm going to check/adj my tsp tomorrow.

Anymore ideas???

RogueDogg · « **Reply #7 on:** Mar 24, 2012, 11:20:52 PM »

I'm having a very similar issue, let's hope we can get some help here :-)

LD · « **Reply #8 on:** Mar 25, 2012, 04:24:36 AM »

I adjusted my air fuel mixture. Its was lean. 16.9 runs better now still a little rough at idle though

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #9 on:** Mar 25, 2012, 09:42:26 PM »

you have the cam at 0* right ?? the distributor timing is the 5*

LD · « **Reply #10 on:** Mar 25, 2012, 09:48:22 PM »

Yes it is. new problem just arrived today. when i come to a stop with the clutch in and on the brakes. Its almost dies then it shoots to 1000 rpms then normal idle. vacuum leak??

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #11 on:** Mar 25, 2012, 09:57:03 PM »

sounds like the diaphragm in the brake booster is shot

LD · « **Reply #12 on:** Mar 25, 2012, 10:00:41 PM »

would that cause my idle problem? The brakes are not hard to push, does not do it all the time. i will have to check it tomorrow

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #13 on:** Mar 25, 2012, 10:04:34 PM »

if the engine idles fine untill you push the brake pedal then its the booster.

LD · « **Reply #14 on:** Mar 25, 2012, 10:08:36 PM »

It does not idle fine. It does not always bogg down when i push the brakes

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #15 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 06:48:52 AM »

Quote from: LD on Mar 25, 2012, 10:08:36 PM

It does not idle fine. It does not always bogg down when i push the brakes

hmmm

LD · « **Reply #16 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 07:18:04 AM »

I have been puzzled for a few days now. Im not sure what to do next

LD · « **Reply #17 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 11:26:06 AM »

checked my booster today. Holds vacuum, no leaks. Checked my compression 160psi all cylinders. Vacuum is a steady 17 psi at idle. Still runs rough. It idles fine then it will sputter over and over. When i rev it and let it idle back down it will idle low(450 rpm) and sputter then return to normal idle(sometimes). other times it will idle back and forth between 500 and 700 rpms. Cant figure this thing out, its hard to explain what its doing over the internet.

LD · « **Reply #18 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 03:23:55 PM »

Ok I have it narrowed down. Its runs great cold so open loop when it warms up runs like crap. New o2 sensor still runs bad. Did a test that's in my manual reading voltage between the sst termimals and it says it should read between 0 and 7 volts and mine reads 13

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #19 on:** Mar 27, 2012, 07:45:23 AM »

Quote from: LD on Mar 26, 2012, 03:23:55 PM

Ok I have it narrowed down. Its runs great cold so open loop when it warms up runs like crap. New o2 sensor still runs bad. Did a test that's in my manual reading voltage between the sst termimals and it says it should read between 0 and 7 volts and mine reads 13

if that don't fix it just idle it up some.

is the egr working properly??

LD · « **Reply #20 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 07:57:37 PM »

Got my idle problem fixed. It was my egr valve. Its would barely open at 3000rpms and then when i returned to idle it will stay open for a second then close. Runs great now

BUT now it is loosing oil. No leaks, so i am thinking rings? Put 500 miles on it, changed my oil and put another 500 on it. Now it is a pint low and the oil is black. I installed engbldrs rock rings. Is 1000 miles enough to fully seat the rings? I honed the block and it has a good cross pattern. Am i stressing for no reason?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #21 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 08:54:44 PM »

Ive had them run 2 or 3k before they seated all the way and quit burning oil.
don't sweat it just give it full throttle at lower rpms

LD · « **Reply #22 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 09:01:39 PM »

What about the oil being black, will that go away after they seat. Should I run an zinc additive? Some people say yes and no.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #23 on:** Apr 08, 2012, 07:50:43 PM »

oil being black means the block wasnt completely cleaned. more than likely sludge in the crank or in the oil galley inside the block. at least it dissolved and turned the oil black. just change the oil again

LD · « **Reply #24 on:** Apr 25, 2012, 07:33:00 PM »

So I have put 2700 miles on my engine and the oil consumption hasn't slowed down. I took it to the mountains 200 miles round trip and it burned a quart. Seems to me if it was burning that much oil it would be smoking and my plugs would be black. I checked my PVC line and it's dry. Put cardboard under it overnight and not one drop. Any ideas?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #25 on:** Apr 25, 2012, 08:06:56 PM »

I'm sure it will seat in eventually. you ARE using full throttle when you shift right?? like you pull out to 3500 in 1st, then shift to second then floor it till it gets up to 3500 or so then shift to 3rd and floor it. this is how you force the rings to seat. you can also just be driving along and let you rpms get down to about 2000 and then floor it till you get back up to 3500-4000.

LD · « **Reply #26 on:** Apr 25, 2012, 08:13:57 PM »

That I am full throttle and i will drive and let them drop and then back to full throttle. Dont you think it would be smoking burning that much oil?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #27 on:** Apr 25, 2012, 08:18:23 PM »

it is but its burning enough that the smoke is really thin

LD · « **Reply #28 on:** Apr 25, 2012, 08:38:44 PM »

Alrighty i sure hope im stressing for no reason

tgmaul88 · « **Reply #29 on:** Apr 26, 2012, 08:32:21 AM »

on another note the temp sensor in conjunction with the o2 you canget a really weird idle problem, ive seen on some subarus, the temp sensor give bad reading to the comp and the comp trys to compensate also try Lucas oil additive not the stop leak but the regular stuff 11 bucks a bottle that will slow the oil.
On seating your rings get to the top of the tallest hill you know. get goin, and ride down while downshifting like put it in 4th let the motor slow it self down then go to 3rd and let that gear slow you down all the way down to 1st but let the motor do the braking. that will also help seat rings, dont use synthetic.

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