Is this welder any good for project building?

[KDXSR5]

I have the chance to pick up a Lincoln AC-225 stick welder for $50. Would it be any good for welding stuff to the yota? Say 1/4 or so plate steel?

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/equipment/retail-products/pages/product=k1170.aspx

Thank you.

[Dr.Maxwe001]

yeah thats a great deal

I have one thats not as facey as that and the only thing wrong with mine was the cooling fan and they were like 50 or 60 bucks 

[junya92toy]

You can make it work, but you will have to be careful not to burn though on anything less then 3/16ths

[KDXSR5]

I just have about ZERO knowledge of stick welders, although I can run beads with them pretty well. Is there anything bad about it being AC only?

[KDXSR5]

What kind of rods can I use? I think I have used 6018 and 70 14 or 7028 or something like that before.

[BoG-ToY]

7018, 7024? (he messed me up with them weird nubers.
6011 6013?

a/c only SHOULD be fine, at that price Id pick it up... I missed out on an A/C D/C for 125 in PERFECT LIKE NEW CONDITION for $125.

[79coyotefrg]

6011 for welding just about anything on the toyota at around 75 amps.  I cut my old frame into small pieces with mine at 200 amps.  7018 isnt worth a crap unless you have no wind, very clean metal, and a very clean work bench.

6011 you can weld up a bumper in a 40 mph wind with paint and rust still on it.
6013 is a filler rod.

[94MtnYote]

AC is sweet no arc blow! 6011 would probably be good since you don't have to keep it in a rod box. And maybe some sealed packs of 7018ac for when you wanna fill a nice clean crack. lol!

[junya92toy]

6011 is good for thin stuff, you can whip and pause so you dont burn through

[Dr.Maxwe001]

6011 for welding just about anything on the toyota at around 75 amps.    7018 isnt worth a crap unless you have no wind, very clean metal, and a very clean work bench.

6011 you can weld up a bumper in a 40 mph wind with paint and rust still on it.
6013 is a filler rod.

THIS IS ALL VERY TRUE

[KDXSR5]

So I should pick up some 6011 and 6013?

[BoG-ToY]

YES, and... if you go to buy 7018 a/c DONT BUY IT TILL YOU ARE READY TO USE IT. clean metal and heavy fab

[KDXSR5]

What size should I use? Some 3/32"? or 1/8"?

[KDXSR5]

6011 for welding just about anything on the toyota at around 75 amps.  I cut my old frame into small pieces with mine at 200 amps.  7018 isnt worth a crap unless you have no wind, very clean metal, and a very clean work bench.

6011 you can weld up a bumper in a 40 mph wind with paint and rust still on it.
6013 is a filler rod.

So i should use 6011 for basically everything, and some 6013 to fill in big gaps?

[junya92toy]

Id use 7018 over 6013

[yotaneck13]

BUY IT and if you dont want it ill take it off ur hands

[KDXSR5]

Ended up being about $150 all said and told because someone had cut the cables to turn in for scrap, and it was missing the ground clamp and rod clamp, as well as the wheels.

[86toyota]

7018 Is a great rod in any condition as long as you buy good rod. Very stong..."70" meaning 70,000 pound tensil strength. I have never had a problem welding with it out doors, and its what most of the pipe line is welding with in Alaska and other pipe lines. for what you will be using to weldin on your rig i would recomend 3/32 or 1/8 in rod. 3/32 burns good around 75-90 amps. 1/8" you can burn 110 amp no problem to any part of a yota frame. Just things cool a bit after each pass and prep your steal good!

[86toyota]

also store your rod in a very dry well protected area...your welding rod that is

[KDXSR5]

I think what I will do is pick up some 1//8" 6011 and start playing around with it once we get an outlet set for it.

[86toyota]

6011 is a farmer rod. sure you can go over anything. but your not going to get the quality, strength, or prettiness that you will out of prepping the metal good and using some 7018

[KDXSR5]

The outlet is set, and we ordered some new wheels for the welder. I need to rewire the air compressor now so I can run them off of the same outlet. I am going to pick up some 6010 and 7018 here after a while and start playing around. I have been busy with girlfriend, work, and school.

I like the new Welding Tech sub-forum BTW, although I really honestly think it should not be a child board, but instead a board of its own.

[Gear Jammin-Dog Chasin-Yota Man]

Please pay careful attention to this:  There has been some confusing  advice given to you about the right a/c rod.  


A/C welding rod is good for dirty rusty metal due to the fact that the current is A/C.

6011 is A deep penetrating a/c rod- IT is kind of the AC equiv for the DC 6010.
I would never use 6011 on thin metal.  You will burn through it in no time at all- if you don't believe me, buy some, try it, and then don't get mad that you just threw away your money on it.

6013 is what you want for thin stuff if you are stick welding with and A/C welder.  It runs a bead similar in niceness to 7018 but penetrates less so it works good for thinner metal.

You can also run 7018 on AC if you have the right rod for it (they make a 7018 strictly for DC too)  7018 is a good rod for nice strenght and weld appearance, plus it has the most slag (to shield the weld) out of all the above mentioned rods, it cools slower than 6010/6011 and it runs a nice bead.  
6013 is pretty dang close to 7018 minus the 10000 lbs of tensil strenght and a bit less penetration.
You don't want to run 6010 on an AC welder, try striking an arc and tell me how it works

[junya92toy]

I love they 6010 smells.

[KDXSR5]

Please pay careful attention to this:  There have been some confusing and not exactly correct advice given to you about the right a/c rod. 


A/C welding rod is good for dirty rusty metal due to the fact that the current is A/C.

6011 is A deep penetrating a/c rod- IT is kind of the AC equiv for the DC 6010.
I would never use 6011 on thin metal.  You will burn through it in no time at all- if you don't believe me, buy some, try it, and then don't get mad that you just threw away your money on it.

6013 is what you want for thin stuff if you are stick welding with and A/C welder.  It runs a bead similar in niceness to 7018 but penetrates less so it works good for thinner metal.

You can also run 7018 on AC if you have the right rod for it (they make a 7018 strictly for DC too)  7018 is a good rod for nice strenght and weld appearance, plus it has the most slag (to shield the weld) out of all the above mentioned rods, it cools slower than 6010/6011 and it runs a nice bead. 
6013 is pretty dang close to 7018 minus the 10000 lbs of tensil strenght and a bit less penetration.
You don't want to run 6010 on an AC welder, try striking an arc and tell me how it works

I have pretty much decided to pick up some 1/8" 6011 and some 1/8" 7018. The 6011 for emergency stuff, and the 7018 for clean fab and such. Is there something different you would recommend? I figure 1/8" rod is fine for toy frames, or should I use 3/32" rod? Thank you.

[junya92toy]

6010 is good for stuff thats thin, because you can whip and pause if there are holes and fill it in. Or if its thin

[Gear Jammin-Dog Chasin-Yota Man]

:

quote author=KDXSR5 link=topic=77973.msg929428#msg929428 date=1301080829]
I have pretty much decided to pick up some 1/8" 6011 and some 1/8" 7018. The 6011 for emergency stuff, and the 7018 for clean fab and such. Is there something different you would recommend? I figure 1/8" rod is fine for toy frames, or should I use 3/32" rod? Thank you.

1/8" rod is good all around rod for sure.  I don't weld much with 3/32" rod.  I tend to use the next size lower (back before I had a mig welder) 5/32" rod for thin metal (1/8" or thinner).  Between 1/8" rod and a few 5/32" rods you can cover pretty much everything you would need to with that welder you have.  If you want some of that 5/32" I have a whole pile of it I could send you if you want to pay for the shipping.  

I love 7018, it is a great rod, and a standard electrode everywhere.

Between some 6011 and the 7018 you should be well covered for anything you would encounter.
On thicker metal use the 6011 for your root pass weld, then multiple pass welds over it with the 7018

Good luck and get to using that great deal of a machine :thumbs

[Gear Jammin-Dog Chasin-Yota Man]

6010 is good for stuff thats thin, because you can whip and pause if there are holes and fill it in. Or if its thin

Sorry, but I don't agree with that.   6010 is a hot burning, deep penetrating, quick freezing/drying weld, type of rod.

I have never ever considered using it for thin metal.  It penetrates like 2x more than 7018-PLUS- it is a D/C rod, not A/C for this guys welder.

Most commonly 6010 is used for root welds and thick metal and vertical/overhead welding due to its quick freeze puddle.  It isn't near as forgiving as 7018 either

[Gear Jammin-Dog Chasin-Yota Man]

A good link with info about welding electrodes (rods)
http://www.rodovens.com/welding_articles/welding_electrodes.htm

[junya92toy]

6010 is used on pipe weldng so you can key hole it and whip and pause it to get a good weld. At the root its pretty thin, usually a 1/8 opening with a 3/32 land