Author Topic: Built BettyWhite. lots of pics (Read 18643 times)

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #30 on:** Apr 26, 2011, 05:06:12 PM »

Well I took it out to the local off road park (Wildomar Offroad Park) to do maiden 4wheel drive test. I didn't air down the tires or anything because the park is fairly easy. The rig did pretty well and I'm happy with it but I did find some things that i'll change. This is my first manual vehicle so I'm still getting used to how to work the clutch well offroading. I would love to install my dual t-cases so I wouldn't even have to worry about working the clutch but money is short.
Well here are a few pics and a video http://youtu.be/BuHb3RD-InA

I think I'll take the helper spring out to help with more up travel

bigarms23 · « **Reply #31 on:** Apr 26, 2011, 10:01:11 PM »

cool glad its done and on the trail

bslh8tr · « **Reply #32 on:** May 02, 2011, 04:06:49 PM »

:beerchug:Congrats glad to see it on the trail! Keep up the good work!

awhotrods · « **Reply #33 on:** May 02, 2011, 06:57:05 PM »

Nice work, keep it up!

motormouth559 · « **Reply #34 on:** May 02, 2011, 07:18:58 PM »

looks good man nice job.

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #35 on:** Jun 27, 2011, 02:00:25 PM »

Thanks for the comments guys. I havn't done much more to it. I was just about to buy tranny adapter to the t-cases a few weeks ago but my dad died from a heart attach that same week so that got put a hold from spending money on the 4runner. But anyway I HATE how the rear axle doesn't sit centered in the wheel well... I wouldn't mind if it sits behind the center of the wheel wheel but it sits forward.. What's the easiest way to fix this? I got ahold of these blocks that move the axle forward or back but it's like one inch thick and I don't want to lift the back end. What do you guys think about just drilling a hole through the leaf springs so I can just relocate the centering pin?

Thanks

yjay · « **Reply #36 on:** Jun 27, 2011, 05:00:54 PM »

You could lose the lift block in the rear and install the axle relocation plate like you said. A win/win I think. If you need to regain lift after that then you could add another leaf or a bit longer shackle, or drop the front to match.
Or you could let the back sag like 4runners all did. Mine does and I don't care. I wouldn't drill the springs. More likely to fail and a huge pain.
Love the build.

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #37 on:** Jun 27, 2011, 10:28:18 PM »

Quote from: yjay on Jun 27, 2011, 05:00:54 PM

You could lose the lift block in the rear and install the axle relocation plate like you said. A win/win I think. If you need to regain lift after that then you could add another leaf or a bit longer shackle, or drop the front to match.
Or you could let the back sag like 4runners all did. Mine does and I don't care. I wouldn't drill the springs. More likely to fail and a huge pain.
Love the build.

Thanks man. yea I've kinda been concidering that. You have a very clean 4runner. Who makes those flares?

Anyone else have any idears on how to move the rear end back easily?

thanks

silence007 · « **Reply #38 on:** Jun 28, 2011, 03:07:28 PM »

I moved mine forward on purpose with the intent on cutting my wheel well a little bit.
Didn't want to at first but wanted to keep my offset minimal since I moved my front forward three inches and i have 3rd get xtra cab. depending on your shackle angle you could reposition your front spring mount but maybe have to relotcate your shackle if you lose too much angle.

THK Matt · « **Reply #39 on:** Jun 28, 2011, 04:27:03 PM »

lose the blocks and use the relocation plates

Yota87Truck · « **Reply #40 on:** Jun 28, 2011, 05:14:27 PM »

Nice looking rig!

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #41 on:** Aug 10, 2011, 01:36:32 PM »

Thanks for the complements guys.

Well I took it out wheeling last weekend for the second time and ran into some problems as to be expected. The biggest problem is that the rear end is to far forward and rubs really bad on the wheel well. I really don't want to cut all the spring purches off to move the rear end back so this is my alternative way to move the rear end back. I'm sure it's been done a million times before and was wondering if anyone had any input on it

or if it's just a bad idear. I am running a track bar and will have to lengthen it if I go this wrought.

This is just a rough design and isn't to scale. It will move the rear end back 2.5" back and with have 2 additional centering pin holes so you can move the rear end forward or back 1.5"/

Thanks,
JP

Yota87Truck · « **Reply #42 on:** Aug 11, 2011, 06:50:19 AM »

not a bad looking design

toygasm · « **Reply #43 on:** Aug 11, 2011, 09:10:52 AM »

nice build!

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #44 on:** Aug 25, 2011, 09:48:03 PM »

An update
Well I took my 4runner for it's first real 4wheeling day trip and it was to be expected for problems to pop up here and there but it was more of a disappointment.. First the rear tires rub the body really bad. Second, even though my 3.0 engine runs good it just doesn't have any balls to go through obsticals that my XJ could back up through. Third, I had to get winched by a jeep to make it up a hill

. While I was trying to make it up the hill i smoked my new clutch that I got from Marlin Crawler and probably ruined the presure plate because it slips now.. So basically I have to install my dual tcases to even make this rig off road worthy in my eyes. So the plan now is get a new clutch, unbolt the tranny, replace clutch, install my dual Tcases, bolt it all up, have drive shafts made, and give it a try again.
Here are some pics form the trip

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #45 on:** Aug 26, 2011, 04:27:44 PM »

Well here's my next project to add to the list. To link it. I'm going to start with the rear first because I think it's easier to do. I couldn't do a real 4link because the fuel tank is in the way so this will have to do. I already have the coil over shocks, I just need to get all the johnny joints and material. The screen shot are at ride height.

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #46 on:** Oct 05, 2011, 04:37:22 PM »

Well I finally pulled the tranny to figure out my clutch issue and hopefully install my dual tcases when I install the tranny. On one side of the clutch disk is totally wasted. Now my question is do you think the pressure plate is salvageable? The clutch is the Marlin 2100k and only has about 300 street miles and one 4wheeling trip. There is no blue makings on the pressure plate fingures like it go really hot but I really don't want to take it all apart again if it's bad.

Yota87Truck · « **Reply #47 on:** Oct 05, 2011, 07:52:16 PM »

I wouldn't risk it. It would probably be fine, but I would hate to pull the trans 2x

silence007 · « **Reply #48 on:** Feb 09, 2012, 12:23:09 PM »

That clutch is totally wasted, I would re use the fly wheel turn the pressure plate and buy a disc, no warrantee?? I have been running on a Napa clutch for almost four years with a leaky rear main on 36" irok. No slipping stock gears, seems like a faulty disc to me. I have NOT been easy on my truck. Is that program you use to mock a design free? what is it? I like that.

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #49 on:** May 18, 2012, 06:44:00 PM »

Hey Marlins, I haven't updated my build in a while. Well Marlin Crawler helped me with a new clutch set up and it's all good now. While I installed my clutch I also installed my 23 spline doublers and welded up the cross member to the frame just so I can use it in the mean time till I build or buy a cross member. The rig goes really well but those baja claws SUCK on the rocks.
I have been working on a cage lately. It's a real slow work in progress because I have been so busy. But it is coming out good and no head room is lost because the cage fits tight to the body.. I'm using .120 x 1.75 DOM.

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #50 on:** Apr 07, 2014, 07:05:29 PM »

Well I have not posted anything in a while so I though I share my progress. I'll post in order as I build it.

Here's my buddy welding up the cage we built. We got the cage to fit very tight to the cab.

I bought some 40s for her

Painted her white.

Sold everything below the frame rails except for wheels and tires.

I bought a Ford 9" for the rear. I then welded up a Ruffstuff truss.

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #51 on:** Apr 07, 2014, 07:18:01 PM »

I then made the cut to CoDrive in KOH for the Every Man Challenge class and the toyota build stopped.

To be competitive for 2014 we back half the jeep

I designed the back half in CAD before building it.

The back half project started

I made this Diff cover for a RockJock60

Race Day at KOH. We Finished the Race!

Enough with the jeeps. Time to start back on my 4runner

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #52 on:** Apr 07, 2014, 07:29:36 PM »

I then started building up inventory

I bought link kits from Ruffstuff. They sell great product!

I have enough plate to last me a while

The rear axle is all trussed up. Now to start on the front

I rolled the 9" under the rig. I'm very happy with the width. I don't like wide one tons.

Trimmed the wheel well a little to push the axle back

I went through the floor with the upper links

Rear is all linked

Fresh paint

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #53 on:** Apr 07, 2014, 07:34:58 PM »

Time to start on the front end.

It took a while to get these things but they are badass.

I machined down the lower caps

They fit like a glove

Ready to mount the Ram

and the skid is all welded on. She's ready for tires

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #54 on:** Apr 07, 2014, 07:38:09 PM »

Here are some misc pics.

Ruffstuff triangulated link bracket that I welded up

Purdy axles

bigarms23 · « **Reply #55 on:** Apr 08, 2014, 05:26:23 PM »

nice axle upgrades

Rockdad · « **Reply #56 on:** Apr 13, 2014, 09:19:32 PM »

Nice build. I need to follow this one.

pumkin toy · « **Reply #57 on:** Apr 14, 2014, 06:32:02 PM »

lookin good man! I like where this is headed

Rockin4Runner · « **Reply #58 on:** May 06, 2014, 07:23:57 PM »

Thanks everyone for the complements.

Well here is where I stand. I got the front axle under the rig and I started planning how I was going to mount that bigass trianulated link bracket under the transfercase without loosing 3"+ of belly pan clearance. I cut out the tranny tunnel out on the floor pan to raise the Tcases a few inches into the body but I still wasn't happy with the loss of belly pan clearance. So I decided to use the triangulated link bracket for the rear. I built the cross member out of 2"x.25" wall tubing. As far as the front link set up I am still going double triangulated but it will be a little different design than most. I'll keep you updated.

Thanks

megaphoneman · « **Reply #59 on:** May 07, 2014, 12:09:33 PM »

aww yes other hellfire knuckles!! i just got my order about a month ago...i am soo stoked!! Billy bob is the man!

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