Topic: TOYOTA WEAK SPOTS!! Ordered list of the things that break first

[jrock]

When would hub gears fail?

With front locker.

Frames cracks at the front hanger.

[PA_taco_13]

  maybe its an east coast thing. FRAMES!  always on the back side of the frame rail right next to the gas tank, seems like little rocks and grit get trapped between the tank and frame and rub a hole in it

[95toyrunner [OP]]

Stock engine mounts

[Thomas P]

ignitions wear out and you can start the rig with anything you can fit in the hole

[NorCalToy]

This thread seem skind of unfair... You could just baout pregnant dog about almost anything posted so far on any make or model of older rig.

And a lot of the stuff seems like a driver error item... A stock driveshaft or hub or whatever isnt gonna hold up to the weight of a vehicle on it or running big tires and a front locker on any rig without some work.

[kneedownnate]

Well said Blake!  Maintenance and abuse speak volumes, and the same type of people flog the Toyota they bought to replace the ranger they had.  I've beat unmercifull on the toyotas I've owned and had surprisingly few issues, many of which perpetuated by laziness or due to having inferior aftermarket parts. 

[H8PVMNT]

The rear c-clip axles always break in a notch and the dana 30 front shafts break like glass under only moderate load... oh wait that was all my buddies with jeeps. 

To put in in perspective, I wheel with jeep guys who break something major nearly EVERY TIME we go wheeling.  Toyotas do have some weak spots for Toyotas, but compered to some of these other rigs they are vastly superior!

That being said my stock 4 speed in my '80 just took a crap and before the SAS on my '94 I broke alot of CVs.

[slabcs]

Everything Toyota is a weak spot.  That said, you can make parts last forever or you can grenade your entire truck if you're trying to.  I feel that this thread has missed a couple important points.

I'm basing this post off of a Toyota running all Toyota drivetrain and 37" tires.  Think cookie cutter Toyota trail rig.  This is what I've had the most experience with personally, and from watching others.

New birfs are the first step.  37's will pop stock birfs before any other parts most of the time.  If you're strapped for cash or don't want to dump too much into a Toyota axle, I've seen 27 spline chromo birfs and stock inners hold up to a lot.  Longfield's are great, and come with a warranty.  Both the 30 spline set and the 27 spline set are plenty strong.  You will not worry about shafts again.

Steering, go high steer with an IFS box.  Most do.  Stock push-pull will not take abuse, the J-arm will break.  I've never seen anybody blow up the FJ80 tie rod ends that come in the package, those will be fine.  Not saying it can't happen, it's just not something I worry about.  If you add hydro assist or go full hydro, the weak link in your steering will be the knuckle studs.  Put ARP's in if you do.

Hubs, the stock Aisin hubs are very strong.  The weak link is the hub studs.  Stock hub gears, in my experience, will hold up longer than the stock studs will.  If you put ARP hub studs in, then I'd put the Longfield hub gears in.

Diffs, gear it if you drive on the street. I haven't been convinced that any ratios are particularly stronger than others.  Shock loads kill diffs.  If you're on an incline pinning it and hopping around, I'd be most worried about the rear diff.  Put a V6 diff in the rear because there is no good reason not to, high pinion in the front if you can.

For lockers, ARB's won't break unless you're engaging and disengaging them while moving quickly, e-lockers have one weak side gear, and Detroits have been known
to break from the shock load of a shaft breaking.

Stock rear shafts are very strong.  I've seen a lot more blown up rear diffs than I have seen broken shafts.  I wouldn't bother upgrading them.  If you break one, spares are cheap and easy to find.  I'd say shafts will pop if the tire is very bound up or trying to climb an undercut ledge very slowly.

As far as the drivetrain goes,  transfer case output shafts and input shafts are the two common breaks.  Rules of thumb here are: 21 spline crawl box + 21 spline rear case = broken rear case input shaft.  21 spline crawl box + 23 spline rear case = broken output shaft.  If you put Longfield's chromoly output shaft in the tcase, you move the weak link to the front output.  There is a chromo front output available now if you continue to go through tcase breaks.  If you're breaking things this far up into your drivetrain, think about ditching Toyota stuff.

The front axle housing itself is a weak link.  They are easy to bend.  Gusset them.  I'm on my third one.  If you like to jump your truck or charge through whoops with your solid front axle, that's when the housing will bend and when you should be worried about your trunion bearings and pins.  Aftermarket housings are available and stronger than stock.

Only other thing I can think of is Toyota driveshaft u-joints.  Toyota made these out of Unobtainium.  If you break a stock Toyota driveshaft u-joint, feel proud of yourself.  Very rarely do these let go.

[twistedtoy92]

-IFS R&P's 86-95
-CV's
-Stock birfs & axle seals
-21 splines in 2nd case
-plastic timing guides
-radiators
-IFS steering idler arm
-4cyl rear spider gear
-SA steering components, mostly J arms and tierods
-window regulators
-rear slider latches
-stock 4'' speakers
-horn brass connector
-3.0 head gaskets and 22r/e head gaskets if you get them hot
-22re IAC valves
I've managed to snap one rear ujoint.... and a 1st/2nd gear shift fork,  but i was askin for it

[THK Matt]

Good list TT.

[matchan420]

Bank account, broke...

[09roramo]

shifter seats for the 5 speeds always wear out. i bought the marlin shifter seats and it shifts like a dream. makes u feel like your trans is new.

clutch slave and master start leaking pretty quick and when the master leaks it leaves fluid on the floor by the clutch. (good reason why a lot of people's floors rust out over there)

for the 1st and 2nd gens rust in the door gutters on the roof. it sucks

[TacoRunner]

I ripped the 3rd out of the rear axel on the Rubicon.  on that.

[95toyrunner [OP]]

Everything Toyota is a weak spot.  That said, you can make parts last forever or you can grenade your entire truck if you're trying to.  I feel that this thread has missed a couple important points.

I'm basing this post off of a Toyota running all Toyota drivetrain and 37" tires.  Think cookie cutter Toyota trail rig.  This is what I've had the most experience with personally, and from watching others.

New birfs are the first step.  37's will pop stock birfs before any other parts most of the time.  If you're strapped for cash or don't want to dump too much into a Toyota axle, I've seen 27 spline chromo birfs and stock inners hold up to a lot.  Longfield's are great, and come with a warranty.  Both the 30 spline set and the 27 spline set are plenty strong.  You will not worry about shafts again.

Steering, go high steer with an IFS box.  Most do.  Stock push-pull will not take abuse, the J-arm will break.  I've never seen anybody blow up the FJ80 tie rod ends that come in the package, those will be fine.  Not saying it can't happen, it's just not something I worry about.  If you add hydro assist or go full hydro, the weak link in your steering will be the knuckle studs.  Put ARP's in if you do.

Hubs, the stock Aisin hubs are very strong.  The weak link is the hub studs.  Stock hub gears, in my experience, will hold up longer than the stock studs will.  If you put ARP hub studs in, then I'd put the Longfield hub gears in.

Diffs, gear it if you drive on the street. I haven't been convinced that any ratios are particularly stronger than others.  Shock loads kill diffs.  If you're on an incline pinning it and hopping around, I'd be most worried about the rear diff.  Put a V6 diff in the rear because there is no good reason not to, high pinion in the front if you can.

For lockers, ARB's won't break unless you're engaging and disengaging them while moving quickly, e-lockers have one weak side gear, and Detroits have been known
to break from the shock load of a shaft breaking.

Stock rear shafts are very strong.  I've seen a lot more blown up rear diffs than I have seen broken shafts.  I wouldn't bother upgrading them.  If you break one, spares are cheap and easy to find.  I'd say shafts will pop if the tire is very bound up or trying to climb an undercut ledge very slowly.

As far as the drivetrain goes,  transfer case output shafts and input shafts are the two common breaks.  Rules of thumb here are: 21 spline crawl box + 21 spline rear case = broken rear case input shaft.  21 spline crawl box + 23 spline rear case = broken output shaft.  If you put Longfield's chromoly output shaft in the tcase, you move the weak link to the front output.  There is a chromo front output available now if you continue to go through tcase breaks.  If you're breaking things this far up into your drivetrain, think about ditching Toyota stuff.

The front axle housing itself is a weak link.  They are easy to bend.  Gusset them.  I'm on my third one.  If you like to jump your truck or charge through whoops with your solid front axle, that's when the housing will bend and when you should be worried about your trunion bearings and pins.  Aftermarket housings are available and stronger than stock.

Only other thing I can think of is Toyota driveshaft u-joints.  Toyota made these out of Unobtainium.  If you break a stock Toyota driveshaft u-joint, feel proud of yourself.  Very rarely do these let go.

this is some good stuff

[locked 4x4]

x2   nicely stated

[Sparkplug]

I ripped the 3rd out of the rear axel on the Rubicon.  on that.

hell yeah

[speedemon]

the horn, e-brake, bent front housings, window cranks

I had to run outside and make sure you didn't steal my truck

[4RunnerChevy]

I had an air powered blender that stripped its spline once, at a stopover between Caples and Strawberry.  I like my Margaritas blended not stirred.      Blender write-up coming soon.

[THK Matt]

I had an air powered blender that stripped its spline once, at a stopover between Caples and Strawberry.  I like my Margaritas blended not stirred.      Blender write-up coming soon.

[Yoda4x478]

Transmissions...

[Thomas P]

i kinda like being able to take the keys out while the truck is running, it comes in handy sometimes

[94MtnYote]

 pickup tailgate latches, I've replaced two.

[IronClad]

Transmissions...

troo ive replaced probably 5 reverse gears in my own transmissions

[THK Matt]

those reverse gears seem to be problematic in the W-series transmissions. I have seen SO many of my friends trucks with blown reverse gears

[IronClad]

yuppp was in my w-56's

[NCK4L]

4runner rear window switch . i love 12 volt guys direct switch

[Jud]

Everything Toyota is a weak spot.  That said, you can make parts last forever or you can grenade your entire truck if you're trying to.  I feel that this thread has missed a couple important points.

I'm basing this post off of a Toyota running all Toyota drivetrain and 37" tires.  Think cookie cutter Toyota trail rig.  This is what I've had the most experience with personally, and from watching others.

New birfs are the first step.  37's will pop stock birfs before any other parts most of the time.  If you're strapped for cash or don't want to dump too much into a Toyota axle, I've seen 27 spline chromo birfs and stock inners hold up to a lot.  Longfield's are great, and come with a warranty.  Both the 30 spline set and the 27 spline set are plenty strong.  You will not worry about shafts again.

Steering, go high steer with an IFS box.  Most do.  Stock push-pull will not take abuse, the J-arm will break.  I've never seen anybody blow up the FJ80 tie rod ends that come in the package, those will be fine.  Not saying it can't happen, it's just not something I worry about.  If you add hydro assist or go full hydro, the weak link in your steering will be the knuckle studs.  Put ARP's in if you do.

Hubs, the stock Aisin hubs are very strong.  The weak link is the hub studs.  Stock hub gears, in my experience, will hold up longer than the stock studs will.  If you put ARP hub studs in, then I'd put the Longfield hub gears in.

Diffs, gear it if you drive on the street. I haven't been convinced that any ratios are particularly stronger than others.  Shock loads kill diffs.  If you're on an incline pinning it and hopping around, I'd be most worried about the rear diff.  Put a V6 diff in the rear because there is no good reason not to, high pinion in the front if you can.

For lockers, ARB's won't break unless you're engaging and disengaging them while moving quickly, e-lockers have one weak side gear, and Detroits have been known
to break from the shock load of a shaft breaking.

Stock rear shafts are very strong.  I've seen a lot more blown up rear diffs than I have seen broken shafts.  I wouldn't bother upgrading them.  If you break one, spares are cheap and easy to find.  I'd say shafts will pop if the tire is very bound up or trying to climb an undercut ledge very slowly.

As far as the drivetrain goes,  transfer case output shafts and input shafts are the two common breaks.  Rules of thumb here are: 21 spline crawl box + 21 spline rear case = broken rear case input shaft.  21 spline crawl box + 23 spline rear case = broken output shaft.  If you put Longfield's chromoly output shaft in the tcase, you move the weak link to the front output.  There is a chromo front output available now if you continue to go through tcase breaks.  If you're breaking things this far up into your drivetrain, think about ditching Toyota stuff.

The front axle housing itself is a weak link.  They are easy to bend.  Gusset them.  I'm on my third one.  If you like to jump your truck or charge through whoops with your solid front axle, that's when the housing will bend and when you should be worried about your trunion bearings and pins.  Aftermarket housings are available and stronger than stock.

Only other thing I can think of is Toyota driveshaft u-joints.  Toyota made these out of Unobtainium.  If you break a stock Toyota driveshaft u-joint, feel proud of yourself.  Very rarely do these let go.

I have broken everything stated here except for a front output.

I'm about ready to ditch the Toyota if this keeps happening.

[k-nutty]

the pull out cup holders!!!

[79yota4x]

i kinda like being able to take the keys out while the truck is running, it comes in handy sometimes

but it sucks when you dump your truck on its side and the keys fly out and you cant find them to turn it off :p happens all the time

[twistedtoy92]

thats where a battery disconnect comes in real handy