89 X-tra cab W/22RE build

[Jaysen]

Did you stick to your 2 pieces driveline or with to single?

[silence007]

I will have a square in front, the rear is still the two piece stock one.

[Thomas P]

LOL you couldnt even take this thing home without stopping at the local mud hole!

[Dingman.]

Hope you like it!!!


Oh by the way you left your impact sockets in the garage. 

[P-DiseToy24]

Good things man glad to see it on the road.. great feeling that first drive out aint it

[silence007]

Good things man glad to see it on the road.. great feeling that first drive out aint it

It sure is, this build will come to a pause anyway now that I have to buy a new car, will finish it up by purchasing a locker for rear and put the LSD I purchased on 4:88 in the front.  I have a 4:88 for rear too but welded, will just buy a detroit or something.

I finished grinding out my square 2x2x.25 now just need to have the old D Line cut apart and welded with the squares and probably put a zurk on it and call it untill next year sometime.  Maybe hack the bed, that won't be much.

[silence007]

okay, so I didn't think a detroit was that much, not going to buy that,  Any reason I havn't heard about the front third being welded?  Maybe I havn't been around long enough.  What if I put the LSD in the back and welded up front?  Lock right?  The spool sounds like same as welded but can be removed to back open.  Any other brands that would be okay on my 36's  I am not a hard core off roader yet but still want something that can handle more than normal people driving because I am not normal.

[Dingman.]

Basically any full time locked front diff is going to dramatically reduce your steering radius and make it difficult for you to turn the wheel.   Sure you could do hydro assist and that would help but a selectable or automatic type locker would be best.  A lockright or Aussie locker would be fine in my opinion, I didn't have a problem with one in front, in the rear though I did sheer multiple pins.

As far as an alternative to a Detroit would be a Yukon grizzly locker which is they same style of locker, but a little cheaper ($100) I think. 

With that said many people run every different type of locker up front, it comes down to personal wants and the price you want to spend.  There are pro's and cons to each type of locker.  Just do research and decide what you want

[Thomas P]

Also welded up front WILL break your stock birfields........ If you wanna go cheap, get a lock right front or aussie they are cheap enough, unless you can find something used

[silence007]

Y

Basically any full time locked front diff is going to dramatically reduce your steering radius and make it difficult for you to turn the wheel.   Sure you could do hydro assist and that would help but a selectable or automatic type locker would be best.  A lockright or Aussie locker would be fine in my opinion, I didn't have a problem with one in front, in the rear though I did sheer multiple pins.


As far as an alternative to a Detroit would be a Yukon grizzly locker which is they same style of locker, but a little cheaper ($100) I think.  

With that said many people run every different type of locker up front, it comes down to personal wants and the price you want to spend.  There are pro's and cons to each type of locker.  Just do research and decide what you want

Yeah as of now do to the car being stolen I just want a stable spot to put the build on hold, don't want that welded one in rear and money is suddenly tight, planned on detroit, doing pricing and hunting for used maybe.  Will be the DD now until I find another four door integra GSR 96 or newer clean title. Some people are difficult, wondering if they know what KBB is, I have found a couple for twice the value if it hadn't been totaled out already.  I will wait.

[Dingman.]

If you are dd it then do not run that welded diff in the rear.   That is my only advise.  You will chew those new iroks up like crazy.

[silence007]

even as not a DD still never intended on keeping the welded carrier.

[Dingman.]

Yea.  That's a good idea IMO..    A lot of people get away with it but I have blown up every welded diff ive ran.

[silence007]

Yea.  That's a good idea IMO..    A lot of people get away with it but I have blown up every welded diff ive ran.

a buddy told me he thinks he can get one for like 200, one guy here said 350 plus shipping, I offered 300 he said no.  IMO I don't think people should be allowed to sell used parts especially from these trucks for more than  half.  And I told him  hopefully doesn't get mad.  OH well.  What toe did you guys set my front axle to?  with my dinky tape measure in the dark i seem to be measuring close to "0" 

[Dingman.]

I believe we set it to 1/8" toe in.

[silence007]

I believe we set it to 1/8" toe in.

cool, I was in the dark with a bs little tape measure, I think 1/16th is pretty standard but I will guess prob differ for bigger tires.  needs to be re done still because it turns so much sharper right and steering wheel isn't center anymore and doesn't let me turn on my left blinker unless already turning.

[Thomas P]

how are you liking the truck? is it covered in panties yet?  

[silence007]

it's cool, no panties yet, work too much and still want to get the back dialed in before to go off road too much.  I got the square grinded out with a good fit.  Front is sagging a little bit, I bet normal people can't even tell.  Need to move the pitman arm though.  turns way sharper right than left.  wont' be hard, I'll center tires, pull the pitman and center the wheel, lock it and put the pitman back on the box.

[Thomas P]

what do you mean saggin in front? isnt the front still higher than the back?

[silence007]

Yeah it is, but I mean I can barely tell unless flat. Just doesn't seem as high as before I started driving it arount. I ment normal people that drive around on flat tires and , some that don't realize fenders on most cars are not the same as corner panels in the back. It looks good.

[Thomas P]

we expectedthe front to settle a bit, does it sit level now?

[silence007]

we expectedthe front to settle a bit, does it sit level now?

close, settled would be more suitable wording, close to level, very close.  I knew it was off so I can still tell, most people can't.  No one has said anything or asked.  Lots and Lots of compliments.

[silence007]

She is off road now, here is a few pics I took while prepping the steel for thomas to weld while he was inside the house.




here is a couple pics while out.







from looks of this one probably need to cut some stuff out.

[Jaysen]

 :biggthumpup:Nice

[Thomas P]

That thing wheeled nice last night! Especially for being open/open. Too sick!!

[P-DiseToy24]

Hell ya man looks good, weld those spiders up... 

[silence007]

Hell ya man looks good, weld those spiders up... 

I have two 4:88 thirds in the closet now, One is welded and one has the supra LSD carrier in it.  Still hoping to find a used detroit for not close to new price, or get something a little cheaper.

[silence007]

:biggthumpup:Nice

thanks, it was fun when I went up with thomas and mike, I am very surprised at how well she did, could have been the driver but never know.

[Thomas P]

Chico craigslist has a detroit for $200

[silence007]

Okay, so I got the detroit for 200 bucks, been doing some homework on getting this 4 cylinder detroit into this v6 housing or put my v6 gears with different inner pinion bearing into 4 cylinder housing with detroit so I don't have to worry about sleeves.  Havn't went to local machine shop yet.  Cost effective will decide.  While the front is out I have decided it would just be retarded if I didn't get some new birfs for the front at least. since not as easy to swap later like the rear.  Has anyone ran more than one brand and found one to be better?  I don't want to pay money for a cool sticker in the box.