NFZ's 1st Gen 4Runner

Started by noflyzone, September 22, 2010, 10:55:38 AM

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twistedtoy92

move the rear shackle hangers back an inch or so....
2005 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro 380 AWHP @ 24psi
1993 Toyota Pickup http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=72886.msg866982#msg866982
1992 Toyota Pickup http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=49319.msg616251#msg616251
1985 4runner http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=60737.msg745263#msg745263

"TRIPLE CASES GETS YOU LAID." -BigMike

"I daily drive this thang everyday." (swapped89)

noflyzone

Thanks, I've been thinking about that. I'm still running the old school chevy shackle in stock toyota location, swung back and welded to frame and then shackle hanging from there. I still have my shocks mounted to the factory mounts on the frame back there too. I need to clean it all up mount new shocks in the /\ positiion and I'll clean up the shackle mount and move it back an inch.

The "new" leafs worked perfect.

noflyzone

#32
And a picture from the trail with the new two tone paint job just to make the second page.
Did a little custom body work while I was out there.



noflyzone

Rode for 12 hours straight and the only reason we stopped was stock birfield grenade.

Left it on the trail at 4am.
Winter project will be rebuild the front springs again (going to add a short spring to the bottom), move the rear shackle hanger as suggested, front axle rebuild with longs or dirty 30's.
I'm concerned about how I chewed up the inside of this bell. My condition at 4 am was slightly numb and I really wanted to force it to fix itself.

noflyzone

So, can somebody with some more experience tell me wether I can still use this housing if smooth it out a bit with a die grinder and flap wheel?

nisota

Nice build, Ill be watching this for updates  :beer:
Oregon wheelin'
82' 2wd-4wd project
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=89180.0

BUDDERS

I would run that housing as long as its straight and not bent.  The inside you can smoothe out - as long as you can still press in the races all the way and the Birfs don't bind.  I think I'd be more worried about nicks in the outside of the knuckle ball leaking grease.
"A friend will help you move.  A real friend will help you move a body."

"They call it PMS because Mad Cow Disease was already taken"

"Hopefully, if I crap in a gopher hole, one doesn't try and nibble at my taint"  - my freind Fat Tony

"I once read somewhere that drinking causes violence, so I quit reading"

noflyzone

It's been awhile but, I'm spending this winter rebuilding and moving up to 39.5 Iroks. As soon as I relearn photobucket I'll get it updated.
DIY hydro assist and 22re rebuild and body work to make them fit are the main points.

blackdiamond

Did you end up swapping out your stock Toyota hubs?  I thought the consensus was that the OEM were the best hub.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

noflyzone

Oh yeah, Aisin Hubs, for sure. Im not even sure what happened to the Warns.

blackdiamond

I read your post about swapping Warn to Stock the opposite of what you intended.
:smack:
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

noflyzone

shop cat to see if is remember how to post pics



noflyzone

Rings came apart a while ago and wore some decent grooves in the cylinder walls. It was already bored 40 over so new core was needed. Found one with stock pistons in it for $100 bucks so I rolled on. It got bored 30 over because it sat for a while and got some rusty spots in the cylinders. The oil pan was NASTY. Timing chain guides and gunk.


Machine shop did a beautiful job on the crank and block and engnbldr pistons and rods. Tolerances were all at the minimums.



noflyzone

new head and kit from engnbldr. Ted is great to deal with. I'm not looking for another 200k motor. its just a trail rig. Still i'm guessing all the small parts, machine work, engnbldr parts etc I'll be over $2k in this rebuild. New intake and exhaust studs, and head bolts from LCE. EGR block offs by myself. Fuel injectors are on the way back from Mr. Injector now. As soon as they get here the motor goes back in. Here's a pic since nobody has seen a 22re before....

noflyzone

Used the Hydro Assist on the Cheap thread here and VonWilsonators youtube video and knocked out the hydro assist. Broke the tip off one of my taps so I ground it down and made it a bottom tap.


I start them with a drill...the tap broke because I had a brain fart and forgot to oil the tap...


noflyzone

I had a couple sticks of HREW laying around so I stuck this little 4 point cage in there with plans to finish it later. Still not finished but, all the bent tube is finished.



noflyzone

Steering reservoir expanded 3" with 3 1/2" exaust pipe. Fit is so tight you barely have to weld it. I did but I seriously though about JB Weld...

This left me with about 1/2" between the hood and the cap.

noflyzone

I used MrInjector.com for my fuel injectors. Quick and excellent service. Even included some lifesaver candies in the box..before and afters


noflyzone

Having the motor out made it for perfect time to do the hydro assist.

noflyzone

And the motor is back in the hole.

LCE claims that sticker is worth 5 horsepower. Easiest 5 horsepower I've ever added.
Now this is my problem. As I weave this 30 year old harness back in the wires are breaking at the plugs. Rockauto sells the fuel injector plugs. Does anybody know of a source for the others? Also I noticed one of the wires came out of the plug that goes into the ECU. I guess I better figure out where that goes

noflyzone

I'm struggling to get this motor running right. Spark and fuel but no fire on #4. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98654.0

noflyzone

Runs and drives like never before! These little by pass hoses are going to plague me though. One blew yesterday. Anybody know a source for those hoses?