New to Marlin board...

[3.4Runner]

New to the board but I did buy my clutch parts from marlin a couple months back for my v6 3.0!
Unfortunately, the god forsaken 3.slow blew a head gasket just a 1000 miles after completing my auto -> manual swap. My question is this...

Will the 3.0 Flywheel/clutch/throwout work with the new 3.4? or will I have to, as I have read, use 3.4 flywheel,clutch, etc?

[Dingman.]

I used my 3.0L flywheel, and clutch kit from marlin.. Works fine.

Otherwise use the 3.4L flywheel/clutch kit  and the 3.0L throwout bearing.  IF you are using the 3.0L tranny.

[3.4Runner]

Thanks.

My next question if you dont mind, are these the correct part #'s for the oil pan swap... seems like I read they are for T100 2wd and possibly did not fit correctly? Just want to make sure I get the corrct parts the first time, I've already spent most of my budget.

1.Dipstick - Toyota part number 15301-62060
2.Dipstick Guide - Toyota part number 11452-62060
3.Dipstick Guide O-ring
4.Union (part that dipstick sits inside) - Toyota part number 90405-10033
5.Exhaust manifold o-ring gaskets - Toyota part number 90917-06083

Thanks again for all the info!

[toe]

 

[Dingman.]

Where did you get your part numbers from?

If you got them from here, then that is correct.
http://www.andrewzook.com/content/view/22/37/1/2/
That is where i got my list and its been fine for over a year now.

[3.4Runner]

Thats exactly where I got them. Just wanted to triple check before spending the $!

[Dingman.]

When i did mine i replaced the rear main seal at the same time just to have the peace of mind it wouldn't start leaking.  Just something to consider.

[3.4Runner]

Thanks! I've been on Yotatech for sometime now but finally jumped into this forum yesterday... Happy to be here and appreciate everyones help!

[3.4Runner]

When i did mine i replaced the rear main seal at the same time just to have the peace of mind it wouldn't start leaking.  Just something to consider.

I will definitly make sure and give myself the same peace of mind!

[3.4Runner]

dingman:  on toyotapartscheap.com it shows:

1.Dipstick - Toyota part number 15301-62060

Collision Catalog - Toyota
Dipstick - 3.4 liter 1995 - 1998

Since my donor motor is 01 Taco will that make a difference? would I need dipstick/tube from sale 99-0?

maybe its different from this one...?

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214001&chapter=&sectionids=10,4117&groupid=2459&subgroupid=2468&make=34&model=Tacoma&year=2001&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

[3.4Runner]

or maybe im over thinking it and making it difficult? ha

[Dingman.]

I do not know if it matters.


As you can see there, once the hole is drilled you install that coupler and the oring and dipstick tube.  (that is the 3.0L dipstick) 

The reason you use the 3.4L dipstick tube and dipstick is the shape of it.  It loops through the motor mount and bolts to the alternator bracket i believe.. 

[Dingman.]

If you do not have to swap your pan then do not worry about it, but my guess is you will have to.

This is a crappy picture but you can see why. If i did not swap pans then it would have contacted the steering. (it would be right where the drag link/tie rod is)



If you do not need to swap the oil pans,  then you do not need to swap your dip sticks.
Heres a pic, you can see i never removed my old dipstick (for multiple reasons) but i just chose to leave it.  You can see the difference in how they mount.. The original one bolts to the front of the alternator bracket, and the new one bolts to the back of it.  This is so the dipstick ends up in the sump portion of the pan.



And just to answer another one of your questions you had earlier.  You only need a body lift for hood clearance.  And you don't REALLY need one.  Another route is a hood scoop or just pounding the hood as i did.



If you take off the motor mounts from your 3.0L and swap them to your 3.4L block then it will sit lower and barely rub the hood.  It did make contact a little after a while and i think it was mostly from the shitty motor mounts i had in there before.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask.

[3.4Runner]

your pictures speak a thousand words! cant say thank you enough!

As far as, hood scoop vs pounding vs body lift...

I will have to weigh the work involved vs costs of each.

Pounding - It sounds ok if I can avoid the exterior blemishes but if unavoidable I think...
Hood scoop looks very attractive! (unanticipated work involved)
Body Lift -  more $!

[Dingman.]

Yea smacking it with a hammer was FREE! 

I only did that cause i planned on getting a scoop, but it has worked for me, looks a little ghetto.  My function over form right?  lol

[axled89]

 

[3.4Runner]

Thanks!

These forums have helped more than I could have ever imagined!
Just had to start searching!
I am in the process of clearing out the engine bay and as soon as the forum allows me to post pictures I will do so!
Any and ALL criticisim is WELCOMe!!!

[Dingman.]

If you have a photobucket account you can post pics whenever.  Just post the [img] link

[3.4Runner]

ya i figured that out right after i posted that and just felt too stupid to say anything... ha but heres a couple pictures for the heck of it!

[3.4Runner]

im headed out to degrease and pressure wash everything tomorrow morning then use the spray on bed liner everywhere I can possibly imagine! Should turn out nice... I'll definitly post better quality pictures. had to use my phone since I forgot to take the camera with.

[Tallchevy]

 

[Rocksurfer]

  II some nice work there.

[phillips_704]

Welcome

[3.4Runner]

II some nice work there.

Welcome

Thanks! spent the weekend putting a 302 into my 68 galaxie so have had no time to work on the 4Runner, but I did get my new JBA headers in for the 3.4 and when I have a chance it will be time to drop the 3.4 in. Cant wait!

[Dingman.]

Ever get this started?

[3.4Runner]

Unfortunatly, no! The JBA header design wont work with the 89-95 4Runner design. The slave cylinder and arm are blocked by the flange on the passenger side and on the driver side the steering column hits on the flange everytime the wheel is rotatged. Thought about cutting and grinding to make it work, but in the end I have decided to sell the headers for a loss and go back to the stock manifolds and crossover. Upside, at least I can pass BAR and get it smogged and registered legally. Downside, I've wasted lots of extra time and money and could be driving my truck already. I miss the darn thing! HA! Crossover will be here on Saturday and I plan to tie it all together then. Still have to figure out the wiring, but im not too worried about it since im not color blind.