air down

Started by REG535, December 30, 2009, 05:51:07 PM

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REG535

Whats the best way to to air down -
whats the best to use on the trail to air down fast and precise?
air pressure for snow? and rocks and reg trails thanks
85 Marble' Black and White (x-cab)
84 RedTurtle' Red with White Top added Marlin Turtle Shift Knob (All Stock) :silly:


TacoRunner

I remove the valve stem, keep the air gauge close by, and wait about 120 seconds then it hits about 15psi then put the stem back in. Finetune pressure by depressing the release valve. All done. You can get a valve stem remover for about 1.50$ at most Auto Stores.
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46&2

Taco's method works great. I like to use a tool like this:



Had one forever, looks like they are about 10-12 bucks now. They unscrew into 5 pieces (4 deflators and the top key chain part). You just take off the cap, screw one of these on, and they do basically the same thing. Plus you can control the speed of the air coming out. Takes about 2 minutes as well to get into the desired low psi range. By the time I walk around, check initial pressure, put the deflator on, and work my way back to my starting tire, its almost where I want it.

As for what tire pressure works best for snow, rock, dirt, etc, it really depends on the tire and wheel you are running, and your own experimentation with those at different PSI in the terrain you wheel in. Everyone I wheel with has their own preferred tire pressure for their set up and different terrain. I usually run my 35x12.50 MTRs on 15" rims at 6-8 PSI in the rocks (granite mostly) and about 10-12 psi in the snow. Mud I go 15.

Experiment and you'll find what works best for you.
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potter85

i do the same, just pull the valve core on every tire and about the time you are around to the first one it is about time to put the core back in. you have to be kinda fast tho. its fun
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REG535

i never messed with the valve core so i will probally get one of those tools, does napa have them? thanks
85 Marble' Black and White (x-cab)
84 RedTurtle' Red with White Top added Marlin Turtle Shift Knob (All Stock) :silly:


emsvitil

I wouldn't totally remove the valve core unless you've brought along some spares.........

:smack:
Ed
SoCal
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

TacoRunner

Quote from: emsvitil on December 30, 2009, 07:09:15 PM
I wouldn't totally remove the valve core unless you've brought along some spares.........

:smack:


Oh... come on. Its fun trying to find them after you put them in your pocket with your keys and loose change.
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Joey88RUNR

yea you might want to keep an extra valve stem in your glove box, I use the same method, airing up isnt so fun though, with my setup takes all day seems like :smack:
SaS'd Dual ultimate crawler w/5.29s Aussie front/detriot Rear, 35's Mtr's with kevlar

SocalWheeler71

They will start to whistle at about 10 psi when you pull the cores, this is the old school way to do it before deflators, but nowadays I have a set of Stauns.

If you lose a valve stem (forget about in your pocket, what about when they go shooting off into tall grass!), if you have good metal valve caps with a rubber seal in them it will hold the air and not leak at all.

How low you can go depends on how stiff the sidewalls are and how much your truck weighs. I am usually in the single digits. 8 in the rocks, 5 or less in the snow. Another thing is when you air up- you only need to go to 20 psi to get back home, going higher just takes too long and/or uses up your C02.

emsvitil

For reinflation, have your spare fully inflated.

Then get a air hose with inflators (the kind that clip on) on both sides;   then have the spare reinflate a tire.....


Saves you some pumping time............
Ed
SoCal
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

84t0y

I just pull the core and let it get down to where it starts whistling, the put the core back in, then fine tune it to where i want depending on terrain. after the dasy is done i just drive home on low pressure lol. 8psi on the street FTW.

SocalWheeler71

Quote from: 84t0y on December 31, 2009, 12:16:53 PM
after the dasy is done i just drive home on low pressure lol. 8psi on the street FTW.
Yep I do that too when I'm close to home.

rockcrawlinredneck

I run around 8 psi in the rocks and around 2 or 3 in the snow. I pull the cores and then put the deflater tool on when it gets close to the desired pressure. With the tool on it is easier to control the the precision of the pressure. I have OBA (On Board Air) that will run air tools so airing up tires is not a concern.

bigarms23

i have staun deflaters and got them as a gift 2 yrs ago generaly run 9psi in rocks and sand and 15psi in mud and 5psi in snow
88 4runner 2016 5.3 auto atlas 2 on tons and tons of fun

germ

I tend to run around 12psi at all times when wheeling with 35x12.5x15 on 8" rims. I used to run much lower, but I ended up rolling a landcruiser 14 yrs ago, 'cause the 2 tires on the passenger side popped a bead while on a side hill. I'm therefore a bit more careful now. If you run a beadlock, this becomes a moot point. Also, while it's possible to re-seat a bead on the trail, it can be a PITA, and I've found that if I stay 10-12, it typically won't pop the bead.

I have deflators, which are set to 12psi, and I just pop them on when I get to the trail-head. While I'm locking the hubs, and doing my final-checking on the rig to make sure everything is ready, they will get my tires to the desired PSI, and then I can just get going.

I have not spent much time expiermenting to see if there are better PSI settings for different terrain, as 12 works pretty well for all of them.

Erik
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I use those... they are awesome... you screw them on and they stop on their own... pull them off when they stop.

-Zach
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79coyotefrg

12 front 10 rear

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NorCalToy

I just pulll one core at a time until its where I want it. With 35" BFG's on 10" wheels about 5-6psi is good. With my TSL's I regularly dropped to 2-3psi on a 10" wheel no beadlocks FTW :rockingout:

And I always drive home on aired down tires. Never had an issue besides absolutely no power.
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Rocksurfer

Deflaters are the best, I pop mine on at the air down point then while everyone else are using their fancy gauges or pulling their cores, etc, etc. I stand around and bs. Then once they shut off I undo them and without having to attend to the tires have them all aired to 12 psi.
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ajordan1975

Quote from: TacoRunner on December 30, 2009, 06:03:52 PM
I remove the valve stem, keep the air gauge close by, and wait about 120 seconds then it hits about 15psi then put the stem back in. Finetune pressure by depressing the release valve. All done. You can get a valve stem remover for about 1.50$ at most Auto Stores.

x2.
best cheapest way.....  :twocents:
1990 4Runner, SAS, 22re, 5spd, Dual stock cases, Locked f/b, interior cage

splasher

Quote from: fortysixandtwo on December 30, 2009, 06:33:54 PM
I like to use a tool like this:

X2!

Plus they work great for airing down people's junk when they're not looking.....and they're not terribly expensive to replace if you do lose one.....

I personally run about 15 psi until I hit an obstacle that calls for less, then I'll air down according to the situation. I've run as low as 6-8 psi (no beadlocks) in the snow without losing a bead for what it's worth.....

I've done the "use the spare as an airtank" method, and sometimes still do, but I mostly use my compressor now. It is nice to have a little extra air as a backup just in case.



Quote from: SocalWheeler71 on December 30, 2009, 09:26:46 PM
Another thing is when you air up- you only need to go to 20 psi to get back home, going higher just takes too long and/or uses up your C02.
X2!

And if you have to choose, (I think we've all been there once for whatever reason) air up the fronts more than the rears.....your steering and braking will be better if the front is aired up more.

Rocksurfer

Got to be careful with the ones without the low pressure shutoff. They will make your tire flat if you don't already know it. :qtip:
The Ghost-Rider/Ghost Runner

No matter how far you fall, the ground will always catch you

REG535

these are great tips  :thumbs:
85 Marble' Black and White (x-cab)
84 RedTurtle' Red with White Top added Marlin Turtle Shift Knob (All Stock) :silly:


DD85runner


i use one of these and go about 10 in the rocks and 5 in the snow
85 4runner: 5.29s, duals with 4.7, ARB fr, detroit r, hi steer, bobbed 12"
89 4runner sr5: sold
98 prelude: DD

IronClad

Quote from: DD85runner on January 05, 2010, 12:45:58 PM

i use one of these and go about 10 in the rocks and 5 in the snow


this but i run way lower pressures
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#25
Quote from: IronClad on January 05, 2010, 12:49:58 PM

this but i run way lower pressures

yeah id like to run lower but i have no spares no beadlocks and no air so it sucks blowin a bead and makin an all night trip to find a tire
85 4runner: 5.29s, duals with 4.7, ARB fr, detroit r, hi steer, bobbed 12"
89 4runner sr5: sold
98 prelude: DD

Steve_925

if you dont air up then you dont have to air down. i set my tires at about 7psi last spring and never checked em again
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Rockcrawlintoy

Quote from: DD85runner on January 05, 2010, 12:57:55 PM
yeah id like to run lower but we have no spares no beadlocks and no air so it sucks blowin a bead and makin an all night trip to find a tire
i wheeled for years with no spare, air or beadlocks at pressures as low as 2-3 psi with no problems
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DD85runner

Quote from: Rockcrawlintoy on January 06, 2010, 07:27:01 PM
i wheeled for years with no spare, air or beadlocks at pressures as low as 2-3 psi with no problems


haha ive never had a problem either just friends
85 4runner: 5.29s, duals with 4.7, ARB fr, detroit r, hi steer, bobbed 12"
89 4runner sr5: sold
98 prelude: DD

87pickup

I use stauns set at 5lbs, they work good but i rarely air back up due to being a trailer queen.