Topic: 22RE cold start issues- UPDATED-

[1990GT50]

Hey I just picked up a yota and have been putting some work into it.
The only problem I have left is that the thing will not start when it's cold (the engine, not the outside temp). In the mornings, I haveto go outside and tun the key and crank it once, off, crank it again, off, again, and again and again forever. If I were to just crank it nonstop (hold the key in start position) then it wouldn't ever start. After I crank it enough to start warming up (like 10-15 min), BAM, all of a sudden one crank it will fire right up and then it starts up first crank the rest of the day it's fine. While cold, right when I crank it, you can hear it sputter a tiny bit like it barely fires but cant start. Then it just makes the cranking sound without sounding like its gonna start if you continue cranking.
I had researched the problem quite a bit and seemed prety sure it was a cold start injector. I pulled the old one which was all gunked up and replaced it which cut my start time down to about 5min of cranking on and off.   Then i replaced the coolant temp sensor hoping that would solve the problem, to no avail.
What else could be the problem. The motor runs great other than this and as I said, once It gets started it will start up right away the rest of the day. In the mornings it's straight up embarassing. I definately need a solution so please help me out. Im gonna be working on it all day tomorrow and really need to solve it before christmas. I have ruled out the typical suspects, so what are the rest?



Update: Alright well I have tested everything and there is no power making it to the switch. Its leaving the ignition switch via the black wire with white stripe when I crank it, I can follow the ignition switch wire to a relay and then into a clifford alarm system. I attached a wire directly from the ignition switch wire to the green wire at the injector timing switch, but I feel like the green wire is going to the ECU??? There are two wires going to the injector timing switch, the brown wire tested as a ground and the green as 0 volts. Once I hooked the hot lead up when I cranked, the green wire showed 12 volts (makes sense b/c of hot lead) but the brown wire changed from a ground to a positive 12 volts as well. Is this my problem?


I already suck at wiring and this is killing me.

PS- I have a 30pack for anybody in San Luis Obispo who can help me fix this - bonus 12pk if you can remove my alarm successfully

[Cheesemaker]

Got a FSM and a volt/ohm tester? 

Cause there is sensor right under the intake/throttle body, one on left, controls the cold start injector. 

When is the last time you replaced the fuel filter? 
Is there gas pressure at the cold start?  Should be able to loosen the bolt and gas should spray out. 

[emsvitil]

Check the cold start timer switch.

Jump the fuel pump tester connector so fuel pump turns on with ignition, not just if engine is running.

[1990GT50 [OP]]

Im gonna check the switch tomorrow. Im hoping thats the problem but cant even find them on autozone.com. If anyone knows where I can buy one that would be a step in the right direction.

I will also check fuel pressure but I feel like the cold start injector is working so it should be good. Best to double check anyways.

Thanks for the help and keep the suggestions coming...

[Cheesemaker]

If anyone knows where I can buy one that would be a step in the right direction.

Dealership or http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=39620.0;topicseen

[1990GT50 [OP]]

Dealership or http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=39620.0;topicseen

haha. Thanks. Im so stuck on shopping for a deal I didn't even think of the dealership!

[runner88]

$119 new at Rock Auto ... or if yours looks like this you can find it at a wrecking yard on certain 83-87 camrys and celicas, including fwd cars.  I found one at the local wreckers and replaced mine that was broken. I could grab the wiring harness and rotate it 45 degrees in both directions!

[emsvitil]

I fixed my cold start timer

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=50178.0;highlight=cold+timer

[1990GT50 [OP]]

Alright, I finally tested the power to the cold start switch and there is none. I tried with the key in the on position and while cranking and there was no power at all. MAn I feel stupid since I should have checked this first but anyways..... I have checked all the fuses and they're all good. What could be stopping power to the cold start timing switch?

[emsvitil]

Time for a wiring diagram..................

(out of town, so I can't look     )

[Cheesemaker]

This is what you do.  Wiring diagram ain't gonna help ya much.  What you need is a FSM, volt/ohm meter (digital - radio shack for the cheap) and pull the harness.  It's not hard to do. 


Test all the wires to see if they are all within spec's according to FSM. 
And if you have a bad wire, you will know it.  This is how I found out that my coil wires were corroded up.  Would get 12 volts, but the resistance was gone.

Best advice also, is to get a spare harness.  That way you can replace broken sockets/plugs, and if you have to splice wire then you have the right gauge of wire and color of wires. 

[1990GT50 [OP]]

I really appreciate the help guys. I would be prety nervous about pulling the harness because of the alarm I just found and aftermarket stuff like rock lights and all which I dont know how to re-wire. I dont understand how/ why both wires are turning pos? and only when I hook up the one hot lead??