Author Topic: "GENERAL LEE" New toy for winter (Read 35159 times)

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #30 on:** Mar 07, 2011, 08:34:04 PM »

lol everytime i try to resize it distorts my pics today i got almost all of the ifs brackets cut off and 4RUNNER is trading me his 83 front axel for my 22re and tranny and a bunch of other parts so now all i need is hi steer and a rebuild kit for the new power

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #31 on:** Mar 12, 2011, 09:40:45 PM »

ok so i need to get my hi steer ordered so i have it when needed but i dont kno wether to order a flat or drop pitman arm ( I AM GETTING A TG KIT FOR NOW...I DONT HAVE THE CASH FOR THE MARLIN THAT I WANT SO IM ORDERING OFF EBAY BUT WILL BE REPLACED AS SOON AS I HAVE FUNDS FOR A MARLIN) now with that said im going to go with about a 6 leaf ruf pack with the over load removed and a stock or slightly longer shakel can anyone give me some imput on the arm i should choose

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #32 on:** Mar 12, 2011, 09:41:36 PM »

the kit i am getting for now http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HIGH-STEER-CROSSOVER-KIT-Toyota-HI-STEER-4-stud-arm-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e642803dQQitemZ360345403453QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

peacesells · « **Reply #33 on:** Mar 13, 2011, 10:37:36 PM »

Youre gonna regret buyin the tg kit.. I bought that kit and after 4k miles had to replace all of the rod ends. Also, the arms arent designed properly and put much more stress on the steering studs. It cost me twice as much to buy the cheap parts first...

If you must buy trail jizz parts, get the flat if you are doing very little lift, get the drop if you are doing 4in or more. I run a sky 3/4 drop arm with 3in lift and it works great.

spc mike · « **Reply #34 on:** Mar 14, 2011, 12:26:51 AM »

Quote from: peacesells on Mar 13, 2011, 10:37:36 PM

Youre gonna regret buyin the tg kit.. I bought that kit and after 4k miles had to replace all of the rod ends. Also, the arms arent designed properly and put much more stress on the steering studs. It cost me twice as much to buy the cheap parts first...

If you must buy trail jizz parts, get the flat if you are doing very little lift, get the drop if you are doing 4in or more. I run a sky 3/4 drop arm with 3in lift and it works great.

So the Marlin arms are geometrically a lot different that the TG ones? Have you broken any studs with the TG Arms?

Sparkplug · « **Reply #35 on:** Mar 14, 2011, 12:41:31 AM »

taper is supposedly different, causing cones to not seat all way, thus not fully thightening, All makers of high steer arms claim to have the "CORRECT" geometry vs the compettition, so I dont know about either one being better, I own both, and I like marlins, but only cause it billet.

peacesells · « **Reply #36 on:** Mar 14, 2011, 06:49:25 AM »

I have never broken a stud, but I have always run arp's and never abused this truck when it had the TG kit. Everyone that I know who has sheared or ripped the threads out of the knuckle has been running TG arms. Ive seen marlins, 4x4labs, and allpros take abuse with much better results.

Sparkplug is correct, the tg's have an odd taper where the cone washers only seat on about 1/16in surface. Marlins arms are more like the stock toyota taper. The bigger concern to me is how high up on the studs the cone washers seat on TG arms. There is somewhere around 3/4 of an inch, that space turns into leverage twisting on the studs. Thats also what contributes to the TG arms constantly coming loose with bigger tires. The stock toy arms seat the cone washer about 1/4 inch (dont take this as fact, its been a while since I did the comparison) up on the stud.

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #37 on:** Mar 14, 2011, 08:54:13 AM »

well im not getn the tg kit now ill have my own custome steering for now till i can afford marlin or 4x4 labs

Sparkplug · « **Reply #38 on:** Mar 14, 2011, 10:22:41 AM »

On a side note, im replacing 2 KNUCKLES on my 4runner today, I have arp studs, and marlin arms. 1 knuckle has 2 stripped stud holes, the other has 1, refuse to torque past 30 lbs. I am nototrious about checking torque. I have about had it with toyota knuckles and steering in general. I only run 36 inch tires, and I havent even hit much rocks, and already have been plagued by horrible issues with truns, knuckles, studs, and general steering

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #39 on:** Mar 14, 2011, 11:39:43 AM »

get a 6 shooter knuckel up grade

peacesells · « **Reply #40 on:** Mar 14, 2011, 02:33:52 PM »

You gotta make sure youre starting with knuckles that are in perfect shape, most of them are not... Both sets ive owned were, I have arp's and torque to 100 ft lbs and check them regularly. Never had a problem on 37's now and 40's in the past.

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #41 on:** Mar 14, 2011, 09:15:54 PM »

got my frame all cleaned up and primered back to the front gastank cross member gonna fix a few spots and gusset tomorro and possibly move my steering box foward as far as it will go

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #42 on:** Mar 15, 2011, 09:00:16 PM »

ok tonight i got my steering box moved foward and mountel it looks pretty good i think

here is the brackets i made to hole the box

and here is the box mounted

Muddytazz · « **Reply #43 on:** Mar 15, 2011, 09:04:50 PM »

Looks good from what I can tell. Anyway to post some bigger pics?

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #44 on:** Mar 15, 2011, 09:13:45 PM »

ive tried i even resized these ones on photobucket and they still come out small any sugestions?

Peterbuilt84 · « **Reply #45 on:** Mar 15, 2011, 09:16:53 PM »

Check your camera settings

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #46 on:** Mar 15, 2011, 09:17:46 PM »

cell phone that may be my problem

Peterbuilt84 · « **Reply #47 on:** Mar 15, 2011, 09:25:14 PM »

Most likely, pics are going to be small off of a phone.

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #48 on:** Mar 16, 2011, 06:59:32 PM »

i can now take bigger pics

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #49 on:** Mar 20, 2011, 08:26:18 PM »

ok tonight i got my steering box reloction buttoned up and the body mount boxed in where i had to cut it out and my top gussets done on the frame heres some pics
steering relocation

anothe of the relocation and bod mount boxed in

and one from the top

here is the passenger sidefront gusset on the top of the frame

and the drivers side front gusset on the top of the frame

for only being in the shop for 2.5 hours i think i got a lot accomplished and am happy with how everything came out

87hillbillyoter · « **Reply #50 on:** Mar 20, 2011, 08:27:18 PM »

looks good man

cant wait to see it finished

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #51 on:** Mar 20, 2011, 08:31:02 PM »

neither can i i should have the frame done and ready to build the spring hangers by tm night i need to pach part of the frameby the gastank and gusset the back and everyxmember will have gussets top and bottom be stron as all hell

4runner · « **Reply #52 on:** Mar 20, 2011, 08:49:19 PM »

lookin good gonna have to get the axle to ya tomorrow
that'll keep ya motivated

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #53 on:** Mar 20, 2011, 08:53:16 PM »

for sureit will i need to tear it down to put my t100 breaks and ifs hubs on it anyways maybe weld spyders till i get a locker

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #54 on:** Mar 21, 2011, 05:15:25 AM »

i wanna get the back portion of the frame cearned up patched and gusseted by the end of today and ill be hapy

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #55 on:** Mar 22, 2011, 10:39:38 AM »

GOT MY FRONT AXEL LAS NIGHT

FRANKENYOTA91 · « **Reply #56 on:** Mar 22, 2011, 01:04:23 PM »

That frame is looking good

SloCrawler · « **Reply #57 on:** Mar 22, 2011, 01:10:28 PM »

good start, looking strong

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #58 on:** Mar 22, 2011, 02:26:50 PM »

Thanks i got the back half of the frame grinded down to bare metal this afternoon and both inside rails are pretty much junk imgoing to be cutting them out and patching in new pieces later tonight

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #59 on:** Mar 23, 2011, 09:30:09 PM »

got the back half of the frame completly to bare metal tonight removed front 2 bed mounts and back cab mount as it will need to be moved back for the ex cab and made templates to cut the patch pieces out for my frame tm ill cut them out of metal and weld in and then fnish primering the frame then is on to drilling the holes in the frame for my tubes which are made (thanks to 4runner) as 1.75 dom boared out about an 8th inch to the correct size of the bushing ill weld thoes in and start making my front spring hanger

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