Author Topic: Quick piston question, #5 stamped on top of piston 22RE  (Read 6765 times)

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Larryb

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Quick piston question, #5 stamped on top of piston 22RE
« on: Apr 11, 2009, 06:56:25 PM »
Does this mean the block has been bored .050?

Duffil

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more likely since it says .5 that it is .50mm overbore which is .020. I'd mike it just to be safe though.

Larryb [OP]

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That is kinda what i am hoping that way i can .030 if needed. I'll have to borrow a mike and check it before i take the block to the machine shop.

Any one have any machine shops they recommend in the fresno, hanford, lemoore area?

79coyotefrg

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yep those are .5mm oversize :thumbs:

you can go as far as .040 aka 1mm before you have any cooling issues,  i went .060 but had to step up to a V6 radiator
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

MC387

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I beleive the shop that I used in Fresno was Engine Masters.  I only had heads done though.  They were great considering they delevered the heads to me over here on the coast.  No need to borrow a mic. The maching shop should check your block out for you and tell you exactly what size pistons you need. Also, if your block has already been punched out make sure to have your crank journals measured to because I have found that a lot of the budget rebuilders just cut everything whether it needs it or not.

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I've heard of a shop that was right down the street from Marlin.  I guess they are top notch.  Bigmike has used them in the past, including their dyno.
Miss ya Dean (4THEWKN) & Kyle (KYOTA)!!

4THEWKN~9/17/2006  If it wasn't for you, I'd be driving something other than a Toyota!

My build up ~ project Kilchis! http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=32961.0
Zak's truck build ~ http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=64319.0;topicseen

Larryb [OP]

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I still need to finish pulling the engine so i can check the crank journals. I will pm bigmike for the name of the machine shop.

At this point i am planning on going with a http://www.engnbldr.com/ street rv head with a 261c cam. Actually i will probably buy my whole entire rebuild kit from him and just need to find a good reputable machine shop to bore/hone, deck, line bore the block and rework the crank and rods if needed. I just want to do this rebuild right the first time and hopefully gain a few extra ponies at the same time.  

I plan on getting a 3 row radiator from DavezOffRoadPerformance.com unless someone can point me to one locally for a decent price. My injectors will be going to www.rceng.com to be serviced unless once again some one knows of a good place locally.

I also am in need of the drivers side engine to trans cast iron brace/reinforcement if any one has one for sale. Mine has a broken ear where the bolt threads.

Cheesemaker

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I used Witchhunter for my injectors, including my cold start injector.  http://www.witchhunter.com/
But I've heard of others using Cruzin Perf.  http://www.cruzinperformance.com/
Very good service from both.  And they both replace gaskets, screens, o-rings, and anything else that may have deteriorated over time.  I had mine flowed, cleaned, tested and all new seals and stuff, for about $125 including shipping.   

As for a radiator, go to your local parts house and get a V6 rad.  Same just thicker.
Miss ya Dean (4THEWKN) & Kyle (KYOTA)!!

4THEWKN~9/17/2006  If it wasn't for you, I'd be driving something other than a Toyota!

My build up ~ project Kilchis! http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=32961.0
Zak's truck build ~ http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=64319.0;topicseen

CrawlerBrennan

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hey I'm young and dumb but marlin and i built the motor in my truck not to long ago. he told me that Toyota put numbers on the piston to classify between different fits like some cylinders were slightly bigger or smaller? idk that's just what i was told by him.
Lets go camping

Larryb [OP]

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Thanks for all the helpful advice. Bigmike sent me the name of a very reputable machine shop and i will be shipping my injectors to  http://www.witchhunter.com/  Now its off to go finish pulling the engine.

Cheesemaker

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Witchhunter was very cool to deal with. 

Here's my build up with my injectors. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=32961.msg428942#msg428942
I think I sent them in and had them back in a week!!  :thumbs:
Miss ya Dean (4THEWKN) & Kyle (KYOTA)!!

4THEWKN~9/17/2006  If it wasn't for you, I'd be driving something other than a Toyota!

My build up ~ project Kilchis! http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=32961.0
Zak's truck build ~ http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=64319.0;topicseen

Larryb [OP]

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Cool, thanks for the great link.

Marlin

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You are correct, your block as been bored 0.50 mm or 0.020" oversize.

Unless you have a noticeable ridge, the block should clean up at 0.75 mm oversize.
When you have your '85 to '95 22R bored, ask for 0.001" piston to cylinder wall clearance.

I have never had to have the main journals line bored ever.

Marlin

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Larryb [OP]

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Thanks for the great info Marlin

 
 
 
 
 

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