Author Topic: What front axle for 37's and 22RE? (Read 4005 times)

atvtrailrider · « **on:** Feb 09, 2009, 07:39:42 PM »

I have a brand new project. Just picked up an 89 with a bad motor. Started pulling the motor so i can put in a rebuilt long block. Anyhow I want to start looking for a front axle to get rid of the IFS.

What should I get for the front? I plan on a full locker, not sure which one, and running 37's with the 22RE motor. I usally tend to overbuild. I don't want it to break on the trail. But I also don't want something so big that it adds too much weight......

Thanks for the help.....

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #1 on:** Feb 09, 2009, 07:52:45 PM »

First of all!

As for axle we need to know how deep your wallet is? 95% of us run the stock birfield axle! Now with Marlin's lower bearing caps that upgrades the bearings from 17mm to 25mm.

Or you can get the FJ80/60 axle, or buy a Diamond axle, or All-Pro's front Birf/D60, or a right diff D44/D60/D70. Then the Rockwell axle is possible.

Just start reading posts on some of our buildups!

atvtrailrider · « **Reply #2 on:** Feb 09, 2009, 08:19:54 PM »

How much difference in cost are we talking? How much would one of the reverse cut FJ80/60 axles cost vs a stock birfield axle? That would be out of a 84-85 correct? And are they hard to find?

93tonkatoy · « **Reply #3 on:** Feb 09, 2009, 09:12:35 PM »

Stock pickup/4runner solid axles are pretty stout units. Some people push them harder than others, so the upgrades are there. Some are pricey, and some are relatively cheap (you wouldn't have to buy many stock birf's to equal one of long's). That is what cheesemaker was saying. You can find deals for the stock front yota housings for anywhere from $150 and up. The cheaper ones usually cost the most to build, but you can save in the long run if you build before you install (no sense in paying for a lot of parts you are not going to use). Look in the for sale section, and you can get an idea of the cost you will be looking at. If you are going to run what you buy, do a good inspection (I would go ahead and rebuild the knuckles anyway).

The aftermarket housings are guaranteed to be right, so that is another option.

Then there are all of the other choices of axles: dana's, cruisers, full-width, 1-tons.

Look around and read up on the different ones, and figure where your "duty demand" will fall in the range of choices.

All that being said, what have you wheeled? on what (sand, rocks, mud, and/or trails)? and for how long? All of this should be taken into consideration before just hacking the IFS off. I am running IFS, and have more front crossmember clearance than I would have under my front axle (if it were solid) with the same size tires. Some people will say that the IFS is too weak. Yes, for some it is (especially those with the on/off throttle foot). But, for what it is, it is very strong. There are people on this board who crawl rocks with IFS (and they beat on them pretty hard) including some with crawlboxes. There are also people who say that they are better off for having started out on IFS, before swapping. With the IFS, you have to pay better attention to WHAT you are doing and HOW you are doing it, rather than just driving over something.

My

would be this. Put the engine in and wheel it. If you are dead set on swapping the axle in, find one and get it and all your parts ready to install it under the truck, then go out and see exactly how strong the IFS is. Go find some friends who have solid axles, and follow them. You will be surprised at how much the IFS will take. Then, If you do disable the IFS beyond repair, pull out your parts and go for it.

gtoyonrocks · « **Reply #4 on:** Feb 09, 2009, 09:36:57 PM »

If you ask me it's a no brainer. I would run 30 spline long fields. Big bang for the buck, you can make your birfs as strong as dana 60 axels and retailn your toyota third which means lots of part availability epecially if you wheel with other guys that have toyotas.

Slolyfe · « **Reply #5 on:** Feb 09, 2009, 09:53:46 PM »

Stock toyota axle!!! Just buy all the stuff for it, longfields, highsteer, inner hubs, highpinion diff, trusses, Diff armor, and studs. Im running all that on 37s and have not broken a thing yet. Yes i beat on it pretty hard.

sweetmeat · « **Reply #6 on:** Feb 09, 2009, 10:12:42 PM »

Definitely run toyota mini truck axle. They are great. Very reliable once you beef them up. I never broke anything in my front axle and i run a detroit up front as well. And we wheel the hammers, rubicon anywere in the southwest, with no problems. Anything over a 37inch tire i would step up to a 60 but with 37's your good. Also would recommend highsteer, longfields and longfield hub gears as well. Its a proven combination that works pretty much better than a stock 60. Also the narrower toyota axle seems to get through some tight spots a little easier

gtoyonrocks · « **Reply #7 on:** Feb 09, 2009, 11:03:13 PM »

I couldn't agree more. Long fields are the ticket. I have ran other so called axel upgrads, nothing that I have seen compares to 30 splines at least for a toyota axel.

Thomas P · « **Reply #8 on:** Feb 09, 2009, 11:06:46 PM »

37's or less no need for anything more than a toyota.....

46&2 · « **Reply #9 on:** Feb 09, 2009, 11:39:50 PM »

Toyota 8" solid front axle with the goods.

87pickup · « **Reply #10 on:** Feb 10, 2009, 10:30:33 AM »

I had a factory toyota axle with all the goodies at mcr7 and it had me wanting more width. Now some might say thats what wheel spacers or 2.5 bs wheels are for but didnt feel comfortable witht that. So i went with a diamond housing and they are sweet. I wish i would have done it from the beginning. But everything depends on $$$$. If i could do it over i would have my exact axle and maybe try a HP e-locker instead of the HP detroit. But i am building a 87 4runner for my dad and he wanted to save money and use a 85 front housing and he will be running a 22re, duals and 37" mtr's.

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #11 on:** Feb 10, 2009, 03:34:40 PM »

I say run the IFS until it falls off. You'll be a better driver for it, and as mentioned above, its pretty stout for what it is. I'm just now switching from IFS to SFA, ran 37"s on it for a while, then dropped to 35"s (couldn't afford 37"s at the time) dual t-cases, locked front and rear. I beat on the truck, and it always pulled through for me, had some breakage here and there, but that happens from time to time. It wasn't until last sept. that it really started falling apart on me, and thats after 5 years of pretty hard wheeling.

87pickup · « **Reply #12 on:** Feb 11, 2009, 08:56:11 AM »

I say 5 ton rockwells.

atvtrailrider · « **Reply #13 on:** Feb 12, 2009, 08:22:27 PM »

Ok you guys have sold me on a stock Toyota axle. Now what year do I need one out of? Does it matter? slolyfe said "highpinion diff", was that in certain years or?

TRACKER · « **Reply #14 on:** Feb 12, 2009, 08:50:19 PM »

i like 79-80 most guy like 84-85

thegoofster21 · « **Reply #15 on:** Feb 12, 2009, 08:50:45 PM »

60 and a 14 bolt

sweetmeat · « **Reply #16 on:** Feb 12, 2009, 09:00:44 PM »

Doesn't matter to much on the years, their all good. But most people run the 84-85

87pickup · « **Reply #17 on:** Feb 13, 2009, 05:38:26 AM »

84-85 if it were me. Good luck.

46&2 · « **Reply #18 on:** Feb 14, 2009, 11:45:16 AM »

Quote from: atvtrailrider on Feb 12, 2009, 08:22:27 PM

Ok you guys have sold me on a stock Toyota axle. Now what year do I need one out of? Does it matter? slolyfe said "highpinion diff", was that in certain years or?

79-85 had solid front axles from the factory, the earlier onces did not have as much factory trussing on them as the 84-85. thats the only difference, but its not like you couldnt imitate what Toyota did to beef up earlier models yourself. None of the 79-85 came with high pinion difs, those are out of later model 80 series Land Cruisers.

yota_krawler · « **Reply #19 on:** Feb 14, 2009, 11:55:13 AM »

Quote from: 87pickup on Feb 11, 2009, 08:56:11 AM

I say 5 ton rockwells.

x2

a toy axle can only handle up to 33 not locked of course. If you put a locker in the front, better not go over stock 29s! unless you want to change birfields every 10 minutes. If you buy Bobbly longs then you would be able to run a 33 with a locker but thats IT!

93tonkatoy · « **Reply #20 on:** Feb 14, 2009, 05:33:47 PM »

Quote from: Y_K on Feb 14, 2009, 11:55:13 AM

a toy axle can only handle up to 33 not locked of course. If you put a locker in the front, better not go over stock 29s! unless you want to change birfields every 10 minutes. If you buy Bobbly longs then you would be able to run a 33 with a locker but thats IT!

And the solid axles (stock) are supposed to be so much better and stronger than the IFS? I guess I can't even roll my truck out of the driveway with the 36's on it. Guess I'm really doing the impossible.

I have witnessed heavy footed drivers who have run 39's on stock birfs, and they lasted for a good while.

I also had a friend who ran 44's on a DD, lincoln locked in the rear, stock birfs and stock rear shafts.

I have also witnessed a longfield break on 36's with a locker.

If you beat on any of them too hard, yeah, you'll break them.

There are NO hard guidelines on what will and won't work. It all depends on what YOU are going to expect YOUR rig to do.

And remember, the manufacturers of most aftermarket rims say that the largest recommended tire diameter for use on a 15" rim is 32".

DTB · « **Reply #21 on:** Feb 14, 2009, 05:41:32 PM »

I can tell ya Detroits and stock Birfs do NOT mix with 36" Swampers

my buddy (God help him) breaks birfs very easily

I have the same axle and tires but am open in the front and I have still broken a birf

TRACKER · « **Reply #22 on:** Feb 14, 2009, 06:17:52 PM »

i like to start off with 79-80 front axle without the tuss on the bottom that give you a lil clearance than 81-85 . i just gusset the ball knuckle part .
i have ran stock birfs locked front and rear for acouple years and haven't break a birf yet but my friend on the other hand broke his birf everytime we are out . we have same style of driving the only different is his truck is lil heavier

yota_krawler · « **Reply #23 on:** Feb 14, 2009, 08:51:06 PM »

Quote from: Y_K on Feb 14, 2009, 11:55:13 AM

x2

a toy axle can only handle up to 33 not locked of course. If you put a locker in the front, better not go over stock 29s! unless you want to change birfields every 10 minutes. If you buy Bobbly longs then you would be able to run a 33 with a locker but thats IT!

it was a joke....

93tonkatoy · « **Reply #24 on:** Feb 15, 2009, 04:46:56 AM »

Your joke was blending in with the people who really believe that!

Halladay · « **Reply #25 on:** Jun 10, 2009, 09:29:47 AM »

i think ifs is your best bet....

atvtrailrider [OP]

atvtrailrider [OP]

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