lockout hub stud upgrade!

Started by boggerunner, January 12, 2009, 08:03:22 PM

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boggerunner

i started modifying my hubs to accept 7/16 fine thread allen head bolts.  i know i lose the cone washer, but the sheer size diff should make up for it.  i got the ideal from pirate4x4.
started with some IFS hubs

then took off the rotors

here is the size diff between the stock stub and a 7/16 20 tpi bolt.


almost as big at the wheel studs.

boggerunner

i then removed all the studs, and drilled it out to 11/64" cause i grabbed the wrong bit from work, i need to finish drilling it out to 3/8"

so i punched a 7/16 hole through the back side of the lockout hub body




i will get the right bit and finish these up tomorrow night, and get some more pics of them finished.  after putting on the lock washer, and goiung through the lockout hub, and hub body, there is still 1/4" till the bolt bottoms out.

Jud

I wanna see how these work. It sounds like a good idea.
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boggerunner

yep, i will abuse these alot.  ive actually never had a problem with the stock studs, but ive seen the trouble of getting broken ones out, and i dont want any part of that fun.  plus no more fighting the cone washers!!

here is the thread from pirate
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=706547

Jud

Yea I hate those damn cone washers!
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"bout tree fiddy"

Sluice Box Hero

i would go ahead and tap that with the 11/64 hole, i always have a problem with the threads not being very tight when i use the correct bit with the tap, but if i use the next size smaller (usually 1/64-1/32) it taps much better.

but, you should get some 7/16 studs.  a stud and nut will have a much higher torque than just a bolt.  or have you thought about getting some tapered bolts and counter sinking them into the hub at all?  the cone washers are there to keep the radial forces at bay.
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boggerunner

one good smack with a hammer, and they come flying off, but it bends the rim of the lockout hub body in, and they never seat right again.

boggerunner

i tried, and the tap wont even start into the hole, way to small.  nope, im done with cone washers, i dont think there is even enough material left on the lockout hub body to taper.  if these dont work, ive got a few extra sets of hubs and lockout sittin around, but i doubt they will fail. 

pumkin toy

deffinately keep us posted!  i break those damn studs all the time!
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Jordan7118

Awesome! I read the Pirate thread and they haven't been breaking this mod. Nice!!

boggerunner

i finished them up tonight.  after getting all the holes tapped and clean, i ran the bolts down, then torqued them to 80 ft lbs,
then i got curious and tried torquing a stock one down, and they strip out at 40 ft lbs,
any one know what the torque spec is on a stock hub bolt?

first one done, checking to see if its deep enough


one down one to go


the studs that failed at 40 ft lbs.


2nd one tapped


and the hub is on


DTB

Quote from: boggerunner on January 13, 2009, 08:31:07 PM
then torqued them to 80 ft lbs,
then i got curious and tried torquing a stock one down, and they strip out at 40 ft lbs,
any one know what the torque spec is on a stock hub bolt?

You should really be using an FSM at the least!

TOrque spec on the hub to hub body is 23 ft lbs...

here...

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/suspensionandaxle/14freewhee.pdf
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DTB

u probably already put the hub dial face on.....torque spec for the face bolts is SEVEN ft. lbs  :biggthumpup:
RIP KYOTA
Quotetoyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

boggerunner

i wont be putting on the face on for a while, ive still gotta tear down my front axle and replace all the seals, and do a 5th stud on it.

23 ft lbs? weak, i like my 80 ft lbs on these alot more!

pumkin toy

so can this mod only be done with IFS hubs?  or does it not matter.  i guess from what i have read so far everyone is using IFS hubs. I was just wondering if there is a specific reason.
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boggerunner

ifs hub bodys?  thats what i did it on. and i also used ifs lockout hub bodys too, just need to order some longs hub gears.

Jordan7118

Quote from: pumkin toy on January 13, 2009, 09:10:21 PM
so can this mod only be done with IFS hubs?  or does it not matter.  i guess from what i have read so far everyone is using IFS hubs. I was just wondering if there is a specific reason.

I'm pretty sure it can be done with SFA hubs, but usually those people who are breaking stuff (i.e. hardcore) have already converted over to IFS hubs (or plan to with this mod) for the extra 3 inches of WMS to WMS. At least that's my take on it.

pumkin toy

yeah i just have 2" wheel spacers on mine.  i havnt upgraded to the ifs hubs. i guess i dont know a whole lot about the hub upgrade :headscratch:    but i do know that i break stock hub studs alot so i would like something stronger.  i was just curious if this upgrade would work alright with the SFA hubs i already have.
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boggerunner

yep, that is the hub assembly the guy on pirate used, they are pretty close to the same except for the wheel mounting surface.

pumkin toy

so technically i should be able to do this same mod on my SFA hubs?
97 4runner Limited
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boggerunner

#20
yep, u can.  

I also forgot to mention, the 7/16 bolts go 1/4" deeper into the hub than the stock stud.

pumkin toy

well i would deffinately like to try this out!  keep us posted on how they hold up!
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boggerunner

i wont get a chance to run them till the moab easter jeep safari, im doing a compleate rebuild from the frame up on my truck

pumkin toy

well damn!!  maybe i will just do it anyways!!
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Joey88RUNR

I thought IFS hubs would not fit on a solid axle :headscratch: I threw my whole ifs setup away :yikes:
SaS'd Dual ultimate crawler w/5.29s Aussie front/detriot Rear, 35's Mtr's with kevlar

93tonkatoy

Quote from: boggerunner on January 13, 2009, 08:31:07 PM


Will the bolt heads or the washers interfere when installing the rim? It looks like they stick out a good bit from the flange. Also, the hub body is soft metal, and the lockwashers may start gouging into the flange after they are removed a few times. Since the load on the bolts is purely rotational, I would use a flat washer and loctite the threads. I do like the idea, though. :thumbs:
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boggerunner

id like to find some different washers, these ones i got free from work, and they seem a bit sloppy on the bolt.  ive got a flap dics for my gringer that will clean them up to fit the rim.   some good red locktite will be used when these finally get installed on my truck, right now they are work bench bling.

MiniSimp

Quote from: 93tonkatoy on January 13, 2009, 10:11:09 PM
Will the bolt heads or the washers interfere when installing the rim?
From the pictures, I would say yes. Just have to install the hub after the wheel is mounted.

Nice mod! (bookmarked for future)

boggerunner

thanks, i also found out that the stock nuts dont like to come off after u strip them out on the stud.  that was a pain in the ass to get it off with 4 stripped out nuts.  i will be tapping a few more for my 4runner, and some other friends rigs too.

boggerunner

it is all installed on my truck, and im going to test them in 2 days, i will let u know how they hold up