Topic: Tuning the MAF with an Engine Builder 261 cam, RV head and Thorley header?

[LOL @ IFS]

So my EFI swap runs... idles fine and runs all right up 'till about 2000 RPM and then goes really lean unless I give it WOT, and then it will run, but won't have any power.

I have a 261 cam, the RV head and a Thorley header with a 2.25" exhaust. 

Will I have to tune my MAF to get more fuel, or is my problem in my wires somewhere?

[LOL @ IFS [OP]]

It gets weirder...

All right, so I decided to go pull some codes and it turns out my diagnostic port isn't there.  I figured I may have missed it when I dissected the donor harness, so I rooted through the pile of wires left over and it's not there.  Hm... well, I'll just jump them at the ECU.  So I go look at my wiring diagrams (Haynes, Pirate 22RE FAQ, and OEM Toyota) and they contradict each other as far as the color goes, but they all agree on where the pinouts should be for the two wires coming out of the ECU.  Well... turns out, the VE wire is missing from the plug at the ECU.  I don't mean it got snipped... I mean it's just simply not there.  I know I didn't remove it because, well... I know I didn't remove it.  Before I pulled all the EFI stuff out of the donor truck, I drove it and it ran fine, no check engine light on or anything... Sooooooo.... what the hell?  Did '86 4Runners not come with a diagnostic port?  If not, how do you check for codes, and moreover, how do you adjust the timing, since according to my Haynes, the same wires you jump to pull codes are also the wires you jump to set your ignition timing.

[Duffil]

on the early model EFI systems, there was only the 2-prong female plug on the drivers side. It wasn't until 87-88 that Toyota introduced the actual "port" on the pass side.

if you want to "tune" the AFM for more fuel, cut through the silicone holding the black cover on the body of the AFM. When you get inside there is a couple of wheels, and a spring and screw assy.  Loosen the screw and advance the wheel about 2 teeth. Try that setting and see if it brings the A/F ratio up to stoich.

[LOL @ IFS [OP]]

Would you be able to tell me the color of the two wires going to the female connector?  The only thing I saw when I dissected the harness that came close to a diagnostic plug was a one wire female plug with a black rubber boot on it.  The plug looks like it'd go to the O2 sensor, but isn't even close, and has a black wire going to it.

[Duffil]

sorry I am carbed.

[WHITE_TRASH]

Been a long time since I've even looked at a second gen....  But last I looked it was a yellow plug about 3/4-1" around...  There were 2 or 3 plugs all in that vicinity, one was the one wire you found, one was 3 wire I think and then the one you are looking for.... 

[Prismo]

It is a 2 wire plug. Wire colors on my 85 are green/yellow and the other is brown

[Duffil]

here is the link to the sticky that is about 2 threads above your post.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=5446.0

[LOL @ IFS [OP]]

Well, hell...  Once again, I forgot to connect a wire.  The brown/ black wire coming from the MAF wasn't connected to the ECU, so the ECU wasn't seeing anything coming from the MAF.  It runs great now, no BS, and I got it all broken in.  Quite a bit faster than the 27 year old 22R it replaced, and I haven't even put in the 5.29's yet... 

[Prismo]

Figured it was something simple

[LOL @ IFS [OP]]

It usually is.   

[LOL @ IFS [OP]]

So I was able to dig the jumper plug out of my donor harness after all... Not sure how I missed it... anyway, I wired it up to the ECU and set my timing and WOW, what a difference!  This thing has way more nut than the 22R that came out!