steering arm on the front of the knuckle on toy

Started by Steve_925, September 30, 2008, 07:55:41 PM

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Steve_925

anyone tryed making there own steering arm on the front of the knuckle. i need my steering to be real low. i saw how rick made his own out of the stock cast arms but my skills arent that good. i was thinking of having them welded to the front of kuckle. any thoughts? and im pretty sure the knuckles are forged right? or cast?
1973 HILUX build up-------> http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48133.new#new


UA 342
STEAMFITTERS

jimbo74

would a ball flip work for you? i am not quite understanding what you mean by real low
:usa:

The cost of freedom is always high, but Americans have always paid it. And one path we shall never choose, and that is the path of surrender, or submission.

~ John F. Kennedy ~

Steve_925

i think a ball flip with flat steering arms would.
does anyone make flat steering arms

like that but on a yota knuckle
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/mossyrocks/4runner30002.jpg
1973 HILUX build up-------> http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48133.new#new


UA 342
STEAMFITTERS

jimbo74

not sure on flat arms, but i do know that some of the aftermarket vendors to make less rise than regular hysteer arms
:usa:

The cost of freedom is always high, but Americans have always paid it. And one path we shall never choose, and that is the path of surrender, or submission.

~ John F. Kennedy ~

Hyena

why not just keep the stock arms?  thats all rick did, he just beefed them up a bit.

Steve_925

i have hysteer arms on it but i figure i can selll them and make some $ and build my own for nothing. i dont wanna weld cast, so i dont want to use stock ones. but if the knuckle is cast then thats not going to work for me then
1973 HILUX build up-------> http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48133.new#new


UA 342
STEAMFITTERS

Hyena

just use the stock arms.  how many stock arms have you seen broken?  the only ones i have seen were from the stock drag link part.  and why do you need it that low?

Steve_925

because of how low the trucks gonna be. i could notch the frame but i was just thinking of that idea
1973 HILUX build up-------> http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48133.new#new


UA 342
STEAMFITTERS

79coyotefrg

i put my truck through alot,  and never bent a  stock arm,  made a banana looking thing out of my drag link and tierod :banana:

if i had to do it over i would have kept the stock steering  just so i could keep the truck lower to the ground
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Hyena

i would try it out with the highsteer first.  that would have to be really low for the tie rod to hit the frame.

4RnrRick


WHITE_TRASH

A buddy of mine used 2 sets of stock arms and bent them to meet in the middle.  he runs full hydro on them without any failures for the past couple years.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

jimbo74

:usa:

The cost of freedom is always high, but Americans have always paid it. And one path we shall never choose, and that is the path of surrender, or submission.

~ John F. Kennedy ~

Steve_925

if i were to use the stock arms wich ill proble do from what all of you guys are saying, ill tack everything then have a shop weld it. i dont want to weld cast. what about the fact of not having to wirry about studs though, its just an idea, might be cool to be the first to try it. :dunno:
1973 HILUX build up-------> http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48133.new#new


UA 342
STEAMFITTERS

Steve_925

maybe ill do both and if the knuckle arm fails ill put the stock arm on.......
1973 HILUX build up-------> http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48133.new#new


UA 342
STEAMFITTERS

jimbo74

Quote from: steve_925 on September 30, 2008, 10:08:55 PM
if i were to use the stock arms wich ill proble do from what all of you guys are saying, ill tack everything then have a shop weld it. i dont want to weld cast. what about the fact of not having to wirry about studs though, its just an idea, might be cool to be the first to try it. :dunno:


you are planning on welding directly to knuckle!


i would seriously research shops...... i would be worried to have some shop work on it, and trust my life to that... i know there are certifications and the like...... but with anything, some people can buy their education, and some learn it....... when i was a tire technician, i had an ASE certified brake technician ask me how to change drum brakes.......
:usa:

The cost of freedom is always high, but Americans have always paid it. And one path we shall never choose, and that is the path of surrender, or submission.

~ John F. Kennedy ~

Steve_925

Quote from: jimbo74 on September 30, 2008, 10:14:14 PM

you are planning on welding directly to knuckle!


i would seriously research shops...... i would be worried to have some shop work on it, and trust my life to that... i know there are certifications and the like...... but with anything, some people can buy their education, and some learn it....... when i was a tire technician, i had an ASE certified brake technician ask me how to change drum brakes.......

yes


theres kirks welding in brentwood there pretty good. jimbo your from livermore right? im in antioch what shops do you know of
1973 HILUX build up-------> http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48133.new#new


UA 342
STEAMFITTERS

jimbo74

Quote from: steve_925 on September 30, 2008, 10:18:25 PM
yes


theres kirks welding in brentwood there pretty good. jimbo your from livermore right? im in antioch what shops do you know of


im not from livermore, and dont know of any shops nor anyone capable of doing it...... i woudl trust 4runrrick and a few others around here like willy mammoth, but i know i couldnt do it, and having worked in automotive repair shops, know that there is shady stuff that does go on there, i wouldnt trust my life or the lives of others to some place i am jsut assuming will do good work because they are a shop...... if my builds ever get to the point i need that done, i will investigate and ask more thorougly.... im not saying welding shops dont know what they are doing, you just have to be careful...... too often is business about qucik turn around and most profit than quality
:usa:

The cost of freedom is always high, but Americans have always paid it. And one path we shall never choose, and that is the path of surrender, or submission.

~ John F. Kennedy ~

kiyul4130

theres more fabwork/thought going into making an entirely new arms that mount off the knuckle which would weld like ass and probably rip off more sooner than later than it would be to do what rick did and beef up some stock ones. you cant get any easier than bolting on the original arms and then adding some steel, besides there both going to be the exact same on both sides. ya the knuckles are cast.
-kiyul-
92 1 ton ex cab, marlin dual ultimates, 42 iroks, hydro assist, flat bellied, linked and more...
ECV 7-11

KYOTA FOREVER

BLACKDOG

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on September 30, 2008, 09:05:36 PM
i put my truck through alot,  and never bent a  stock arm,  made a banana looking thing out of my drag link and tierod :banana:

if i had to do it over i would have kept the stock steering  just so i could keep the truck lower to the ground

:idea: glen! I have stock steering for you truck!! I'll trade you your high steer for it! :gap: 
:usa: Its better to die on your feet than live on your knees :usa:

"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children's children what it was once like in the United States where men were free. "

"I don't believe in a government that protects us from ourselves."
              -Ronald Reagan

Don't take life too seriously, it isn't permanent

4RnrRick

The stock toyota arms are Forged steel - not cast iron..... hence there is no issues welding on them. but even so - I did the preheat, then weld and bury them in sand for a slow cool down. as long as you don't chop up the factory arms, you totally should be fine.

Steve_925

Quote from: 4RnrRick on October 01, 2008, 07:41:05 AM
The stock toyota arms are Forged steel - not cast iron..... hence there is no issues welding on them. but even so - I did the preheat, then weld and bury them in sand for a slow cool down. as long as you don't chop up the factory arms, you totally should be fine.
i went back and looked at how you made yours and relized they were forged and the reson u pre heated them were because you only have a 110v welder(me too) so im gonna use some stock arms. thanx for all the help everyone.
1973 HILUX build up-------> http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48133.new#new


UA 342
STEAMFITTERS

boggerunner

u could buy the highsteer arms, and drill them out for 3'4 hiems, and run the tie rod and drag link on the bottom side of the arms

Hyena

Quote from: boggerunner on October 01, 2008, 06:26:10 PM
u could buy the highsteer arms, and drill them out for 3'4 hiems, and run the tie rod and drag link on the bottom side of the arms

not if he is running leaf springs.  they would be right in the way.

Steve_925

im linking it. im gonna link it before i mess with the steering. i have hysteer arms so im gonna flex it out with the the tie rod filpped under the arms, if its still not low enough then ill try somthing else.
1973 HILUX build up-------> http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48133.new#new


UA 342
STEAMFITTERS

Hyena


porkchop

Quote from: WHITE_TRASH on September 30, 2008, 09:34:02 PM
A buddy of mine used 2 sets of stock arms and bent them to meet in the middle.  he runs full hydro on them without any failures for the past couple years.
If you can get a shot of that for me trash I am in the middle of going full hydro and still got old style steering I need ideas bad
85 TRUCK AUSSIE IN FRONT LINCON AROUND BACK MARLIN 4" SPRINGS UP FRONT WITH 63 CHEVYS ON BACK. REBUILT 22R WITH CRAWL CAM AND FEW OTHER THINGS NOTHING HUGE JUST WAITING TO GET PROPANE ON IT. RUNNIN 35'S M/T WITH MY LONGFIELDS 30 SPLINE SUPER AXLES. 4.7's IN T-CASE AND ON THE WAY WITH DUAL CASES. FULL HYDRO WITH TG ROCK ASSULT PUMP AND 2 X 6 AG RAM

Hyena

put one on the bottom and one on the top.  drill them out to 3/4 or whatever and use a long grade 8 bolt between them and mount the tie rod right under the top arm.  that would be sick.  steering arms will work on the bottom, you just need 8 more cone washers.

Steve_925

Quote from: Hyena on October 01, 2008, 07:51:41 PM
put one on the bottom and one on the top.  drill them out to 3/4 or whatever and use a long grade 8 bolt between them and mount the tie rod right under the top arm.  that would be sick.  steering arms will work on the bottom, you just need 8 more cone washers.

that would be. would have to strengthen the arms as much ether.  and really i could run the tie rod where ever i wanted height wise
1973 HILUX build up-------> http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48133.new#new


UA 342
STEAMFITTERS

WHITE_TRASH

He had to bend the arms I think... But thinking back on it now I don't see why he would have to.....   I'd plate to the steering stop boss too just for a bit extra too.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??