Hydroassist

[YotaYota]

When I was at paragon this weekend, I discoverd I needed hydrassist along w/ beefing up my frame aroung steering box (tore it off). I remember reading somewere about building hydroassist for like $150 using a yota box, if anybody has any info on this, do tell.

                                 -Anthony

[locktup]

It's easy. Pull you box apart,drill and tap it, weld some mounts on you front axel and the drag link, run you hydro lines to the ram and your set.

[YotaYota]

It's easy. Pull you box apart,drill and tap it, weld some mounts on you front axel and the drag link, run you hydro lines to the ram and your set.

Was looking for a little more info than that, like what ram to use, were to drill and such

[Brandon]

http://www.wildyoats.com/hydraulic_assist_tech.htm

westtexasoffroad.com will tap it for the $150..

I'll have my own article whenever I get around to it, got my box in pieces right now..

[BigMike]

Brandon, could you give a bone-head's approach to the pricing on a complete before-power-assit to Ive-got-the-parts quote?

How much for the ram? I guess everything else is just tapping the box and then mounting the ram, right? What's a common ram? Some garbage truck ram or something? Length/extention inches?

Its a newb' question from BigMike!

[Brandon]

Brandon, could you give a bone-head's approach to the pricing on a complete before-power-assit to Ive-got-the-parts quote?

How much for the ram? I guess everything else is just tapping the box and then mounting the ram, right? What's a common ram? Some garbage truck ram or something? Length/extention inches?

Its a newb' question from BigMike!

Rest Assured I will break it all down in a tech article  8)

It will probably take another 3 weeks at my current rate but without shopping at all the ram would cost $150 from west texas, to drill and tap wouldn't cost you anything since you have the tools. Then you'd need hoses, personally I will only use AN stuff so I am guessing about $50 for all fittings and hoses. So my guess is in the ballpark of $200 for the do it yourself but I bet that ram can be found much cheaper..

I am a cheapo, the complete kit from WTO is $450 and is really a great deal and you can't beat Matt's service. I ran his setup before with the Scout box but I kinda want to try to do it myself just for the learning experience..

I found a rebuild kit for $50, but really if the box is not leaking you don't need it..

[BigMike]

Seems so cheap why don't we all just do this?

[Brandon]

Seems so cheap why don't we all just do this?

good question..  Ship me a box and I'll do yours when I do mine. If your like me you'd probably rather do it yourself to know what is being done though. But if ya want me to..

I have had my ram on and off 3 times, An ideal setup would be to remove it for the street and pop it back on for trail trips. It isn't horrible on the road but I do like it better without - less wandering and more responsive to turning. With it when you want to crank the wheel real fast there is pressure keeping you from doing it - basically you can't turn faster than the fluid in the ram will allow you to..

With you getting a jobber price I bet you could get the ram for say $75 or less, you could sell a kit for like $200 and still be getting 100% profit for the do it yourselfers. Might not be worth the headache though. I just need to find $50 under the couch (yea right) for the rebuild kit and I will finish my article on tapping and rebuilding with step by step directions. I will just cap the fittings for now while I find the ram deal..

Donations to the fund?

[BigMike]

Do you accept pennys in small quanities?


I'll just wait for your article and see if its worth it then. Sounds like a bummer for city driving. Could you use a large pin to connect/disconnect the ram and then use a valve that diverts the pressure in the hoses straight to the low side, thus completely bypassing the assist steering within seconds?

[Brandon]

Do you accept pennys in small quanities?


I'll just wait for your article and see if its worth it then. Sounds like a bummer for city driving. Could you use a large pin to connect/disconnect the ram and then use a valve that diverts the pressure in the hoses straight to the low side, thus completely bypassing the assist steering within seconds?

you'd still have a hydraulic fluid mess since you are removing the ram, might as well just remove it and the hoses and cap the fittings. It isn't horrible but knowing your driving habits you'll want the steering as responsive as possible

The smaller the ram the more responsive but then it also tends to wander more.

[Brandon]

I think I am going to be picking up another box, If I do I can tap it and straight trade you..

Let me know 

[Aaronn]

I have a setup I'm selling for 170+ shipping including the box

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4317.0

[Brandon]

hmm where are you located?

[Aaronn]

Atascadero,CA 93422