Topic: battery box repair or move

[RN37DD]

ok i got tired of my battery flopping around on the bumps and stuff. i got to fix this and i can't weld very good.  anyone got some pic's of a good fix? or is there a good place to move it.  i got it in the cab while i drive it to work.    it's in a 79 gen one.

[Redbeard1]

I know of several people that have relocated the battery to the drivers fender on second gen trucks. just moved the air cleaner to the other side and used the short rubber hose from the throttle body and junked the plastic one accross the radiator. That said it helps you very little in your first gen. I would just rebuild your current one and if you cant weld that well jsut build it from sheat metal and "pop rivet" it in. Just drill the spot welds out from the old one then use it as a rough pattern for your new one.       

[DTB]

Please....whatever you do..dont use a bungie cord to hold it down...I see that too often 'round here 

[RN37DD [OP]]

no i had a rubber strap to keep it from falling in the engine. and the hood was keeping it from jumping out.   yeah

[RN37DD [OP]]

drilling out the pop rivets sounds like a good idea. i can weld, just not very good. so if i can find another box and remove it without too much damage maybe i could weld it back in.

[DTB]

no i had a rubber strap to keep it from falling in the engine. and the hood was keeping it from jumping out.   yeah

haha I kinda figured you did  The only reason I say that is that I've seen a battery jump into a radiator fan and kill the engine

[94MtnYote]

drilling out the pop rivets sounds like a good idea. i can weld, just not very good. so if i can find another box and remove it without too much damage maybe i could weld it back in.

 That would probably be pretty easiest, the welding shouldn't be too difficult maybe stitch weld here and there til' it's all tied in.  What type of welder will you be working with?

[jimbo74]

i completly removed my stock one, as it was rusted and bent. i bolted one in from some type of nissan, just drilled a couple of holes.. if i remember, i will try to take a picture later. it uses the stock hold down. btw, a rubber strap is a bungee cord, and a bad idea.. it isnt safe. use a real battery hold down 

[RN37DD [OP]]

yeah take a picture I'd like to see how ya got it. i want that battery to stay put. I'm going to replace it and i don't want to destroy a new battery. I'd like to find a good battery that's light but i could still use with a winch.

[porkchop]

haha I kinda figured you did  The only reason I say that is that I've seen a battery jump into a radiator fan and kill the engine

That happend to me once! lol 

[Toymin8r]

haha I kinda figured you did  The only reason I say that is that I've seen a battery jump into a radiator fan and kill the engine

I've also seen the battery jump up and both posts short out on the hood.  lots of sparks, melting wires and lead, as well as a dead truck.

[Gittinit]

I have wasted a few of the lead plare/ acid type batterys. It was becouse the batterys were flailing about, and becouse of the shock the batterys were given on hard bumps, or bounces. This lead to one of the cells in the battery going bad, and the battery not holding or taking an adequate charge. The lead plates just don't seem to stay intact long term, when in abusive conditions. I then when to an optima, and now a gel filled battery, which is a cross between a optima, and an oldschool, lead, and acid, type battery.

My current battery tray is an angle iron frame, welded to the factory location, with a small brace/clamp type pice on each side, to prevent it from sliding in any direction, or floping up, or down.

[DTB]

My current battery tray is an angle iron frame, welded to the factory location, with a small brace/clamp type pice on each side, to prevent it from sliding in any direction, or floping up, or down.

That seems to be the simplest solution.....a small rectangle shaped frame welded out of angle iron with a couple metal bands holding it down 

[RN37DD [OP]]

yeah i did weld up a little frame like that. guess i could see if it fits after i remove all the rusted metal out of the way.

[RN37DD [OP]]

ok cleaned old metal away. holes!!!  going to have to deal with that too. 

[Steve_925]

Please....whatever you do..dont use a bungie cord to hold it down...I see that too often 'round here 

i had a bungie holding mine down for a long time. before i had the bungie the stock bent up mangled hold down let my battery scoot over enough to hit my PS pully and put hole in the side of it. im on my third batt cuz of that. i just built a new tray out of angle steel also relocated it to the back. it was pretty easy. im still using a bungie though

[RN37DD [OP]]

i removed the weak rusted metal and ended up with a big hole. cut out a plate for it and discovered my flux-core wire feed loved burning holes though the thin rusted metal. (should have cut more away, but hey i told you i didn't know how to weld.) so i borrowed a solid core set up. yeah i freaked out and the welds were to cold, but finally got it right. after i welded in the plate and filled in my mistakes with some plastic metal. bolted in the frame and it feels stout.  going to put 2 supports where the X's are. then build some hold downs to keep everything in place.

[kneedownnate]

haha I kinda figured you did  The only reason I say that is that I've seen a battery jump into a radiator fan and kill the engine

That's why I run an optima    Fix looks pretty good man, looks like the battery trays I've built for some houseboats, cept I like to cut the ends at a 45 for a cleaner look! 

[RN37DD [OP]]

 thanks.. just trying to keep the old truck going. yeah cutting the ends 45 would look cleaner, but i didn't want to push my luck. on the good side once the battery is in.. really can't see the frame anyway.  I'd like to mount a battery behind the cab somewhere. might do that next.  didn't like the idea of it being close to the hot exhaust or fuel tank. plus bad visions of being dead in the middle of the river.