J-arm flip - drag link modification

Started by AZMT, February 13, 2008, 01:21:48 PM

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

AZMT

I just put a 3inch lift(buggy springs w/spacer) on 1981.  Now, I am doing j-arm flip as doc'd in one of the postings.  I have the ball out(pita) , 5 ton press barely did the job.  Now, a question about the draglink modification.  Is a person supposed to cut the drag link in half, turn 180 degrees, re-weld? 

Thanks,

AZMT
Marlin L52HD and 1200# clutch, TLCA#15225


AZMT

Yep, thanks to the author Duffil.  I don't see where it covers drag links.  It mentions an adjustable drag link.  Most of the adjustable drag link I have found come with a 3-4 inch drop.  I do not think I need a drap as it is just a 3 inch lift.  So I planned on modifying the existing drag link.
Marlin L52HD and 1200# clutch, TLCA#15225

MiniSimp


toyo487

I cut and turned mine (I did sleeve the rod when I re welded it to make if very strong)  just make sure you turn it to the correct position.  Works very well, was able to get any one of my tires 26" up with the push pull steering with the ball flip.  I did get bump steer pretty bad but I got used to it and now I have Hy steer.
1986 Toyota 4Runner 22re 5spd transmission and dual transfer cases (4.7's in the rear). E-lockers front and rear.

2005 GMC Sierra diesel, compound turbo setup to pull.

   God gave all people talents but the only one who can find them is you.

Duffil

Quote from: AZMT on February 13, 2008, 02:02:59 PM
Yep, thanks to the author Duffil.  I don't see where it covers drag links.  It mentions an adjustable drag link.  Most of the adjustable drag link I have found come with a 3-4 inch drop.  I do not think I need a drap as it is just a 3 inch lift.  So I planned on modifying the existing drag link.
Thanks for the heads up Kyle.

Yeah, you can cut it in half, and sleeve it back together with a piece of tube.  Make sure the tube fits it fairly well, and you should plug weld it as well as welding the ends of the tube. Weld the main bar back together, then slide your tube down over the (ground flush) weld, and stitch in the plug welds and the ends. That is actually how I did mine before I got the adjustable one.

84solidaxletoy

i basically did the same thing too. but i did not have access to a press so i cut the j arm at a good spot and then flipped the entire thing and where i cut it, it still lined up very good. i then welded the j arm back together, and i cut the stock drag link and rotated it to fit nicely on the ball. but i ditched that within a day because the bump steer was insane. we have quite a few dips in our town due to washes that run down the town so everytime i would hit one of those at 40 or so mph i thought i was gonna lose the steering wheel. it would work but just be prepared for bump steer. i ditched it and just got a drop drag link. the beauty is you dont need to flip the ball, you just need to adjust the links and it will line up and it almost feels like stock steering again, just a little bump steer now and then but nothing even remotely close to before.

jimbo74

i wouldnt cut the j arm, it is difficult to weld back together and i would seriously doubt it will ever be as strong welded back together than it was originally, and originally it was marginal at best
:usa:

The cost of freedom is always high, but Americans have always paid it. And one path we shall never choose, and that is the path of surrender, or submission.

~ John F. Kennedy ~

jimbo74

duffil has pictures of the welded drag link on the second page of his build
:usa:

The cost of freedom is always high, but Americans have always paid it. And one path we shall never choose, and that is the path of surrender, or submission.

~ John F. Kennedy ~

79coyotefrg

Quote from: jimbo74 on February 13, 2008, 08:06:48 PM
i wouldnt cut the j arm, it is difficult to weld back together and i would seriously doubt it will ever be as strong welded back together than it was originally, and originally it was marginal at best
i never broke a  drag link or J arm  but  when pinned between a tree and a rock  i did  bend it,  but  bent it back  with a LARGE pry bar,  drove it till i had my wreck (dumb bass made left in front of me,  not related to my truck steering at all)
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Rocksurfer

I had the adjustable drop draglink on my 80, I think anything to do with steering your vehicle should be set up by professionals and not jerry-rigged. No bumpsteer and no brakesteer either.
The Ghost-Rider/Ghost Runner

No matter how far you fall, the ground will always catch you

AZMT

Thanks for all the info and the note of caution. :greengrin:  I have taken two welding classes at community college(highly recommend) but I am letting a much more experienced welder and race car builder to do the welding of the drag-link and j-arm.  I will re-inforce with half-pipe.  Also, we are going to weld a plate to the j-arm starting at beneath the ball and tapering off at bend.

Thanks again from Peoria, AZ.
Marlin L52HD and 1200# clutch, TLCA#15225

84solidaxletoy

oh come on rocksurfer you know brakesteer is awesome  :gap:

AZMT




Picture of bracket on j-arm and drag-link with steel pipe fitted. 1st time trying to post an image :crossed:

Marlin L52HD and 1200# clutch, TLCA#15225

4RnrRick

I did this years ago....

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202801&highlight=flipped+ball+steering

But one problem I had is that in doing this - I would dent the shock at full flex, which also puts stress on the J-arm.

Works fine for a temporary solution, but defintely start saving for highsteer!