Topic: stupid starter

[Paul_Elbisser]

so check this out. I have been having problems with the starter, so I got the contacts from Toyota. I replaces both contacts, studs and all. cleaned the plunger. put it back together, and it turned over once, then wouldn't work again. I put my remote starter button on the starter pos, and it worked as usual. So I decided to check the signal. 12V when I turn the key. So I cleaned and adjust the wire contector to be sure it is making good contact. Put it back on and It turned the starter over with the key a few times, then nothing again.

My next plan is to put a starter solinoid on the fender and rune thru it.

[yotaboy79]

mine did somthin simaler there was a plug on it, i for get what it was for but each time i ran the engin it would raddle out and id have to plug it back in to start it again i got sick of that and super glued the little thingy sucker in there

[Paul_Elbisser [OP]]

Mine never came out. And it goes in real tight now. Just doesn't work   
And it is getting 12V

[Paul_Elbisser [OP]]

I picked up a cool solenoid today. Borge Warner PN S72A. It is your basic ford type, but it has a button on top that you can manualy pust the plunger. This may come in handy somtime. If not it would just be cool to be able to start the truck from the engine bay  if your working on it

[BigMike]

Hey Paul,


Check the connections at you battery, or try replacing your battery. Even though you have 12volts doesnt mean the full cranking amperage is getting through your wires. 12volts at 2 amps wont even engage the motor. I used to drive an 87' 4Runner. Every-now-and-then it wouldnt crank. You would have to turn the key to the start pos about 10 times before it would crank, and if you let up before it started, you would have to play with it again. Every connection appeared good, washed off any corrosion with some water and even the terminals were clamped on well. But it turned out that the 1 main chassis ground negative wire had a bad spot somewhere beneath the insulation, and if you placed a screwdriver on the neg battery to the body, it would crank every time. Sure the radio and head lights worked great, but remember good batteries are 600+ cranking amps so you'll need some good connections.

Try this old trick to see if youve got ample amps. Turn your head lights on high beam and try to start it.

1) If the head lights stay on and it doesnt crank, then youve got starter problems.
2) If the head lights dim but it doesnt start, then your got a short somewhere.
3) If the head lights just suddenly turn off, then this is the scenario I had, and youve got a bad ground connection from the battery.

Good luck-
BigMike