TRICKS OF THE TRADE

Started by Red_Runner, April 27, 2004, 04:47:30 PM

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TigerToy

I don't know if this works on yotas, but it should.  If you ever have to change an in-tank fuel pump, instead of draining the gas and dropping the tank, just remove the bed.  A couple of strong armed friends can lift it off, and walla, easy access.  It works with chevrolet trucks, and it should work with yotas.

yotaboy79

i just used a high lift jack to lift up one side

brainlessfool

I just use a sawsall to cut a hole in the bed :thumbs:
A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

Red_Runner

sounds like somthing you would do :smack:

95TacoTruck

I've seen something similar with a pinion nut and allowing the breaker bar to hit the frame.  One of my favorites that I have never tried but saw in a magazine was using your rear power tire and a tow strap as a makeshift winch.  As you go in reverse the strap will wrap around the tire and pull you out supposedly.  I guess the trick would be staying in a straight line with the strap.
95 Tacoma Extra cab, many mods to come........

flipside_nv

#35
I used a 1" ratchet and put a 21 mm closed end wrench on the end of that.  It reached the driver side frame rail just enough to catch and then bumped the engine.  Worked like a charm. 
Credit cards are evil............

Prismo

One for the IFS guys. Replace the studs on the stub axle flanges on the front differential with short bolts. When you have to change a CV you can remove the bolts & the CV end can be slid below the flange & CV axle will pull right out. You will still have to pull the hub if you have the bolt & washer/snap ring that attach to the hub end of the CV shaft on some models (ADD/bolt&washer?). This will not work if you have Rancho top arms.
Retired Great White Turtle Hunter
Originally posted by fortysixandtwo – sheesh, you should see the transvestites i sell ammo to sometimes

TigerToy

I saw some dude do that at Tellico laying in the mud with the truck at about a twenty degree angle.

Jared

so it took me about 10 minutes to pry out the old oil seal on the back side of the rotor.  In the manual it says PRY with a large screwdriver so im doing what it tells me to and i figured, pry......  :screwy: wait, i got a huge prybar.
I Just put a 2x4 on a portion of the rotor and I stuck the pry bar between the seal and the bearing and bam the seal flew like 15ft away from my workbench. 
ah the beauty of a cuttin torch

Prismo

Someone else mentioned this in the engine thread. It is a good idea to helicoil the exhaust stud holes on the 22r as they strip easily.
Retired Great White Turtle Hunter
Originally posted by fortysixandtwo – sheesh, you should see the transvestites i sell ammo to sometimes

flipside_nv

Quote from: prism on May 08, 2004, 11:37:49 PM
Someone else mentioned this in the engine thread. It is a good idea to helicoil the exhaust stud holes on the 22r as they strip easily.

What do you mean by helicoil the exhaust holes?  A couple of mine have stripped and between the burnt out header gasket and the stripped studs it sounds like crap.
Credit cards are evil............

WHITE_TRASH

Go to Napa and get a helicoil kit.  M10x1.25  Its kinda spendy (about $25) The kit should come with a drill bit, a thread tap and 10 little coils that once you have drilled out the stripped holes and threaded them you screw these threaded inserts in the holes. No more stripped out holes.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

flipside_nv

Credit cards are evil............

TigerToy

After taking the outer bearing out of the rotor, but the spindle nut back on and ram the bearing up against the nut to pop the seal out the backside of the rotor.  Seal comes out perfectly, so I never half to buy one.

Also, stick a big pry bar in top of the caliper, between the piston and the pad, as an easy way to push the caliper back.  Needle nose vise-grips on brake shoe springs.

Red_Runner


Skinny_Pedal

if u have a dad that wont let u do anything cool to your truck because its to nice. just roll the pregnant dog! then its fair game from there.
it worked for TTF FAB
Im an OG

yotaboy79

whos blue yota is in your avatar?

Skinny_Pedal

buddies 81. its in the project thread
Im an OG

Hyena

If you have a problem with your drain plugs lossening, just weld them in.  Or you could shave them out, that works and you get more ground clearance.

SWAMPER

If you having a hard time putting in a spark plug get a piece of hose and fit the spark plug to the hose that way you can bend it anyway you want! Did that make sence?

(I know its old but its still helps out)
1985 Toyota Pick/Up longbed...bobbed 15",  lifted 5", 36's.....http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=36992.0

GrimReaper

Quote from: prism on April 28, 2004, 09:30:00 PM
This one is kind of lame. There is a removable panel in the inner fenderwell on my 90 4-runner so you can get to the fuel filter easier.

Its on my 86 as well. Too bad I didn't notice it till AFTER I changed it. LOL.

Mike D

how come that always happens
87 runner, 4" trailmaster lift, 33" TSL/SX, 5.29's V6 e-locker, 22re that cost too much

Shamb

dunno if anyone's mentioned this... once we where wheeling with a older EB and one of his radiator fan blades busted and cut a big hole in his radiator hose...  so we took a beer can, cut the tops off and sliced it long ways down the middle. Wrapped it around the radiator hose where it was cut then used bailing wire to get it tight against the hose along with alot of duct tape to hold it in place. It held all day long without any problems, i think he left it on his rig for a couple weeks before getting a new hose..

:thumbs:
R.I.P to my Papa, I miss you pops......

Knowledge is power  www.pirate4x4.com/forum

New Buildup in process 85' 4runner "Bad Decisions"
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=52566.0

Check out my 1-ton build up thread
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=22600.0

TrackVino

I had a friend do something simular, but if you put ditch water in your radiator, remember to flush it out when you get home. My friend left his, and ended up pluged in a matter of days

guywithuglyyota

I did something similar on my old jeep. If you happen to spring a radiator leak, J-B weld and a soda/beer can will do the trick. Simply cut out a patch and glue on, holds forever. Also, its surprising how many guys who cant afford a winch dont  realize how effective come-along winches are. There relatively cheap and have several uses on the trail. Harbor freight has them pretty cheap, but inspect them befor you buy! I have had a few fall apart :( 
Comedy is the last refuge of the nonconformist mind.

MidgetMike

  EVER BREAK A MAIN LEAF? HOPEFULLY YOU DON'T POP THE EYE OFF, IF YOU BREAK IT A BIT AWAY FROM THE EYE HOSE CLAMP IT TO THE NEXT LEAF DOWN, 2 HOSE CLAMPS ON EACH SIDE OF THE BREAK AND A :pokinit: LOAD OF DUCT TAPE SHOULD LET YOU WHEEL ALL DAY AND THEN SOME

OH YEAH (SOLID AXLES) ANY BODY EVER BREAK THIER STEERING ARM STUDS OFF THE PASSANGER SIDE, CARRY EXTRAS AND THE CONICLE WASHERS AT LEAST 3 OF EACH AND NEXT TIME YOU WHEEL CHECK YOURS AND SEE IF THIER TIGHT
Sounds like more tree huggin hippie bull :pokinit:

Huhwhye

Quote from: Marlin on May 05, 2004, 07:53:52 PM
When i have a front pulley bolt that will not break loose, I use a long 2X4 to hold the 19mm socket tight on the bolt, and place the handle of the breaker bar about 6" from the frame, and after unpluging the coil igniter [very important], i then have the key turned to the start position that spins the crack and when the handle hits the frame, the bolt should break free.

Marlin

And if your planning on doing a motor rebuilt make sure you do this before you yank the motor.  I didn't, I pulled the motor first and had a helluva time getting that bolt loose.  I ended up buying a Compressor and Impact gun just for that little bolt.  And it took some serious pressure.  I had the compressor at 140PSI and my Impact gun is rated 600lbs ft in reverse.  120 & 130 PSI wasn't enough.
'04 Taco DC 4x4

79coyotefrg

had to put a front oil seal in the celica a while back, that dang bolt was stuck good,  tried the breaker bar to the frame trick, went thru 3  19mm sockets, then went 6 point 3/4,  5 of them later, went to a buddies house and borowed a 19mm snapon impact 1/2 drive socket and 30 inch breakover,  tried again, starter spun ,SMACK it stopped,  i mean it stopped the dang thing from spinning,  ended up trading some acorns to a welder buddy to bring his truck out and torch the thing out  :hammerhead:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Skinny_Pedal

hahaha, try this one next time. put your breaker bar ans socket on there, get a board to hold the breaker bar and just tap the ignition. will break that nut loose. what nick and i did when we changed mine
Im an OG

PipeRat

Quote from: Glen on October 25, 2004, 06:36:38 PM
had to put a front oil seal in the celica a while back, that dang bolt was stuck good,  tried the breaker bar to the frame trick, went thru 3  19mm sockets, then went 6 point 3/4,  5 of them later, went to a buddies house and borowed a 19mm snapon impact 1/2 drive socket and 30 inch breakover,  tried again, starter spun ,SMACK it stopped,  i mean it stopped the dang thing from spinning,  ended up trading some acorns to a welder buddy to bring his truck out and torch the thing out  :hammerhead:
:psss:  Lefty Loosy,Righty tighty  :biggthumpup: