Topic: Motor Issues

[lilbuddy]

Well EFI is really starting to piss me off. Ive had more problems with it then my stupid cluster $!#% of vacuum hoses on my 81

ANyway ive had a lot of prblems with my TPS. Back when I got the motor running The original OEM TPS went out. Only place in town that had one was napa and I needed one. I got one and now im on my third one due to the first two breaking on me and going out of wack. Anyway I got the TPS set to stock standards and well its not right. Im getting a check engine code #7 which is the TPS, TPS Circuit or the ECU. Pretty much im getting sick of it. WHen I give it gas the timing stays where it should (5*, unless its supposed to be 0, i cant remember) but once i give it just a touch bit more over the little that i gave it, the timing advances to probably 50*. I dont get it. I have the TPS Set and its right and yes i used the feeler gauges and all that crap.

So I tested the tps for voltage and only 3 of the 4 are getting any. Most of which are getting really low voltage, like .60 +/- but the last one is getting .000

Also when I turn my AC on i get a code #11 which also goes to the TPS, ECU and the air conditioning switch.

Pretty much I dont get it and what should I do? Try a new ECU?

[MiniSimp]

Those were the same 2 codes mine was throwing.

Changed out the TPS and adjusted it, reset, and it went away.

Unfortunately for me that still hasn't fixed my problems, but I am code free.

[lilbuddy [OP]]

Maybe our ECUs are shot?

Mine starts so hard but runs like a champ... somethings not right

[MiniSimp]

Maybe our ECUs are shot?

Maybe.

Mine starts so hard but runs like a champ...

Mine starts easy now and runs like crap.

[lilbuddy [OP]]

Have you adjusted your timing after the new TPS?

[MiniSimp]

Have you adjusted your timing after the new TPS?

Yep, set at 5*B

I'm checking my EGR next. Been through every sensor on that pile.

[lilbuddy [OP]]

hmmm

A new ECU didnt  work for me and it still advances way far and then i get a code #11. It starts advancing way high right around 1500 RPM. I put a timing light on my friends 85 and it also advances way high so is that normal? I didnt think it was since before all this BS with my motor has been happening it never did that?

[-Matt-]

hey buddy check this out it helped me figure out my computer problems and it might even have some relay info in there http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=22re+harness+diagram&btnG=Google+Search click on the 3rd link down and it will download a word doc, theres some good diagrams that might help ya

[lilbuddy [OP]]

So ive realized something...

My charge light is really really dim sometimes (with motor off and key in on position). other times its really birght but lately its been dim

Todayt when I started it, it was bright then I started driving and it had a lot of power. Then when I left work to go to lunch it was dim... WTF?

Any ideas?

And Is the timing supposed to stay at 5* or is it supposed to advance way high when throttle is added and rpms are above 1500?

[BUDDERS]

Timing is supposed to advance way high when throttle is added.  For the dim charge light issue, check the ground wires and main power wires on you're engine and alternator, and make sure you have good contacts (no rust or paint on them).  If the ECM is getting low voltage for some reason when running, it will set weird codes.  After all that is confirmed good, try setting the TPS with your timing light after you clean the crap out of the inside of your throttle body. Jump the t1 to e1 connector on the diagnosis connector in the engine bay with the engine running and A/C off and the idle should drop.  Next check the timing with a timing light.  It should be at 10 degrees or so.  Loosen the screws on the tps and gently tap it until the timing changes (note: big change).  When it changes, gently tap it back the other way until it goes back to base timing and tighten screws and you're set.  I know it doesn't tell you to do it this way in the FSM, but smog guys have been doing this successfully for years without problems, and it's easier than the stupid fealer gauges.  If this doesn't fix the tps code, you have some serious wirring issues.

P.S.  If you need another tps, I might have what you are looking for for free....

[MiniSimp]

So ive realized something...

My charge light is really really dim sometimes (with motor off and key in on position). other times its really birght but lately its been dim

Wierd, my charge light is on all the time since the problem started...i just figured it was because i've been beating the hell out of my battery with all the starting and stoping during the testing...

[BUDDERS]

Wierd, my charge light is on all the time since the problem started...i just figured it was because i've been beating the hell out of my battery with all the starting and stoping during the testing...

Might even be a worn out ignition switch issue....

[Willy Mammoth]

Might even be a worn out ignition switch issue....

Check the output voltage of the alt. If it isn't at least 10 volts you will have some weird stuff happening with the ECU.

Also check for bad diodes in the alt. That will cause the light to come on and may also effect the ECU. It is supposed to run on DC voltage and if you have a bad diode, it will be getting a bit of an AC cycle that could do weird things.

[lilbuddy [OP]]

My alt is fine its charging at like 13.6volts and yeah its good....

The light is on when the runner is off but the key is in the on position (check engine, fasten seatbelts charge and brake lights all on, all the lights are bright but the charge)

[lilbuddy [OP]]

Timing is supposed to advance way high when throttle is added.  For the dim charge light issue, check the ground wires and main power wires on you're engine and alternator, and make sure you have good contacts (no rust or paint on them).  If the ECM is getting low voltage for some reason when running, it will set weird codes.  After all that is confirmed good, try setting the TPS with your timing light after you clean the crap out of the inside of your throttle body. Jump the t1 to e1 connector on the diagnosis connector in the engine bay with the engine running and A/C off and the idle should drop.  Next check the timing with a timing light.  It should be at 10 degrees or so.  Loosen the screws on the tps and gently tap it until the timing changes (note: big change).  When it changes, gently tap it back the other way until it goes back to base timing and tighten screws and you're set.  I know it doesn't tell you to do it this way in the FSM, but smog guys have been doing this successfully for years without problems, and it's easier than the stupid fealer gauges.  If this doesn't fix the tps code, you have some serious wirring issues.

P.S.  If you need another tps, I might have what you are looking for for free....
[/quote

The TPS is set perfect and timing is set perfect also (with the AC off and the wires jumped) I just dont know why im getting #11 though....