Author Topic: Radiator Relocation (Read 9235 times)

PoorCollegeCrawler · « **on:** Jul 08, 2007, 09:03:05 PM »

I have been dinging up my radiator pretty hardcore when offroading, and besides that it is killing my clearance. I looked into smaller after markets, but none would be enough. My next idea is to mount my radiator in the bed of my truck, electric fan, metal cage to keep it reasonably far away from the sides, just extend my plumbing along the frame and cut a hole in the bed. Anyone done this/heard of people doing this? I figure this will save me some cabbage (180 for smallest possible radiator) and will be a hella upgrade for my clearance.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #1 on:** Jul 08, 2007, 09:13:48 PM »

air pockits are the biggest trouble.

86bobbedtoy · « **Reply #2 on:** Jul 08, 2007, 10:08:54 PM »

I have no clue but will do some resurch, for I also would like to know.

Duffil · « **Reply #3 on:** Jul 09, 2007, 07:36:02 AM »

yeah, a lot of guys in the south that run mud do it. With fullsize trucks.

Lizard_lips · « **Reply #4 on:** Jul 09, 2007, 08:15:27 AM »

I have my radiator in the bed. I run a juiced up 350. I ran my plumbing along the frame. used a stock fullsize blazer radiator and a taurus fan. here's so pics of the tubing and the radiator

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #5 on:** Jul 09, 2007, 09:04:22 AM »

Quote from: PoorCollegeCrawler on Jul 08, 2007, 09:03:05 PM

I have been dinging up my radiator pretty hardcore when offroading, and besides that it is killing my clearance. I looked into smaller after markets, but none would be enough. My next idea is to mount my radiator in the bed of my truck, electric fan, metal cage to keep it reasonably far away from the sides, just extend my plumbing along the frame and cut a hole in the bed. Anyone done this/heard of people doing this? I figure this will save me some cabbage (180 for smallest possible radiator) and will be a hella upgrade for my clearance.

what kinda wheeling are you doing ??

what year truck do you have??

what bumper??

i installed a 2 inch bodylift to clear my later transmission and it was the only way i could mount my v6 radiator. but mine is well protected

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #6 on:** Jul 09, 2007, 09:15:19 AM »

PoorCollegeCrawler · « **Reply #7 on:** Jul 09, 2007, 11:29:22 AM »

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on Jul 09, 2007, 09:04:22 AM

what kinda wheeling are you doing ??

what year truck do you have??

what bumper??

i installed a 2 inch bodylift to clear my later transmission and it was the only way i could mount my v6 radiator. but mine is well protected

rock crawling, mudding, and hills. 2000 taco, heres the pic, which should make it evident why i am doing this:

gonna move that bumper up an inch then chop the frame at a 45 degree angle. its 2x4 steel welded directly to the frame. front crash safety rating = i win.

nice pics lizard, i was planning on just running radiator tubing, not steel, any reason for/against this?

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #8 on:** Jul 09, 2007, 11:38:39 AM »

If you run steel tubing it will help in cooling, as rubber will not! The only downfall of a rear radiator is to make sure you have sufficient airflow in the bed!

Why don't you get a front skidplate, that will solve your problems! You'll still get airflow through your radiator, but you will keep stuff from damaging it! Get some metal or aluminum and have it bent to fit from the front cross member to just below your bumper!

jimbo74 · « **Reply #9 on:** Jul 09, 2007, 11:43:33 AM »

why is the radiator that low? i have never seen onme that low, usually they are mounted to the radiator support and up a lot higher than the front suspension... it looks liek you have plenty of room to put it where it is supposed to be

PoorCollegeCrawler · « **Reply #10 on:** Jul 09, 2007, 11:59:09 AM »

cheese - my problems aren't just damaging the radiator, its a major clearance issue.

jimbo - no idea why, but trust me there is no room to move it up. it was covered up by the pos plastic bumper, the thing is 24 inches deep by 25 inches wide.

Lizard_lips · « **Reply #11 on:** Jul 09, 2007, 01:31:19 PM »

The biggest problem is air flow and air pockets. if you can get enough flow to the bed and all of the air pockets out it'll cool fine.

DTB · « **Reply #12 on:** Jul 09, 2007, 01:37:58 PM »

is the truck sitting stock height? it looks really low like jimbo said. a lift or bigger tires might help u out in more ways than one

PoorCollegeCrawler · « **Reply #13 on:** Jul 09, 2007, 03:13:14 PM »

well i can't afford a lift or new tires at this point.

lizard, how did you get rid of air pockets? just a lot of fluid and making sure there were no places where the air could gather?

Lizard_lips · « **Reply #14 on:** Jul 09, 2007, 04:27:23 PM »

you have to bleed the system over and over. Make sure there isn't an air pocket under your t-stat. you can also drill a small hole in the t-stat to make sure there isn't one. and when you run in for a while you can feel where the air pockets are in the rubber hoses that connect the tube to the radiator or the motor. also add your antifreeze and take a hose and put in the radiator and close the rest of the radiator with a towell or something. it actually works. my old man told me. also they make some bleeding kits i hear. you can pick them up at like a parts store. and hook it up to your heater hose lines.

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #15 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 02:22:32 AM »

Put a lift into it, that would solve it! Either that or get rid of it and get a older toyota and you won't have that problem. Just remember that the companies are making these rigs for hwy driving. That's why the radiator is so big and hangs low!

PoorCollegeCrawler · « **Reply #16 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 07:09:16 AM »

ugh just found out the electric fan is gonna be 300, knew it would be something, but jesus thats a lot. looks like im gonna be spending a lot of time waiting tables the next few weeks hehe.

can't really do lift because my 31s would then be too small, meaning new tires which coupled with a decent lift, makes me broke. not to mention i plan on doing an sas after next year of college, and the IFS lift is expensive and would then be useless.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #17 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 09:11:37 AM »

chop the front of the frame off and your future plans of a sas are over

and didnt you post this somewhere else ??

kinda like cutting your nose off to spite your face

Lizard_lips · « **Reply #18 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 09:38:27 AM »

It'd be worth it to do an sas. The price of tubing and everything with your fan should be kind of close to do an sas. IF you shop around you can find some good deals and do it for cheap

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #19 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 09:53:22 AM »

Quote from: PoorCollegeCrawler on Jul 09, 2007, 11:29:22 AM

rock crawling, mudding, and hills. 2000 taco, heres the pic, which should make it evident why i am doing this:

gonna move that bumper up an inch then chop the frame at a 45 degree angle. its 2x4 steel welded directly to the frame. front crash safety rating = i win.

when was you gonna tell me you was from Arkansas

what welding shop did your bumper Whisenhunt in Arkadelphia is a

no wonder you dont have any protection down there

i emailed you

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #20 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 10:09:17 AM »

http://www.ar-ttora.com/

PoorCollegeCrawler · « **Reply #21 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 10:59:57 AM »

just did it at a local shop in northwest arkansas, live in rogers/fayettville.

i am not talking a major cut to the frame, a very very minor one. i posted somewhere else about just replacing my radiator but the benefits of putting it in the bed are pretty high, and either way my wallet is gonna get screwed. might as well work my nuts off (and these extra hours are on top of my current 60+ hours a week hehe) and go for it.

lizard, i was pricing an SAS at like 1500 min, and the electric fan being 300, all thats left it mounting and tubing, both of which shouldn't cost anywhere near 1200 (will mount it myself)

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #22 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 01:20:00 PM »

Put a skid plate on it and solve your problems for now, and save your money for a sas!

It's just that simple! The skid plate will protect your radiator.

Lizard_lips · « **Reply #23 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 02:29:21 PM »

agreed with the above statement.

the-rock-doc · « **Reply #24 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 03:00:48 PM »

Yeah, I relocated the rad of my 82 in the bed about 10 inches in front of the cab on two pieces of angle Iron. I did this because I wanted a winch but didn't want to destroy my approach angle so I mounted my winch in the engine compartment and used 1 1/2" DOM to run my cooling lines, of course, remember to run yer cooling lines high up along the frame and use something to protect them like... more angle iron. This helps to strengthen the frame and to protect the cooling lines. Another thing I did that alot of people don't know is that I went to the closest wrecking yard and pulled an aluminum rad out of a 91 S-10 Blazer. It works a hell of a lot better than the old copper or brass or I have even seen some yota's with 4345 steel rads. Just a thought I guess.

Scott

PoorCollegeCrawler · « **Reply #25 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 05:36:31 PM »

yeah but skid plating is just gonna make my front clearance suck harder then it already does, to climb any rocks i gotta hit the things at such an angle i am risking a rollover. besides, i love doing mods. also theres no way ill be able to afford that sas this summer, no matter how much i work

Lizard_lips · « **Reply #26 on:** Jul 11, 2007, 08:59:56 AM »

I don't know. I still think you should to some sort of skid plate on the front. from the frame up to maybe the bumper like a landing ramp haha

Lizard_lips · « **Reply #27 on:** Jul 11, 2007, 01:49:31 PM »

if you still want to run the radiator in the bed. I'd sell my tubes to you. I'm parting my toy out

86bobbedtoy · « **Reply #28 on:** Jul 11, 2007, 07:25:06 PM »

lizard lips I saw your rig on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-pickup-1985-Toyota-rock-crawler_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6059QQihZ001QQitemZ110147394901QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

jimbo74 · « **Reply #29 on:** Jul 11, 2007, 07:29:51 PM »

throw on a skidplate, and call it good until you can afford it....

what if you break somehting offroad? this is your dd i assume? if you cant afford to build your truck, you really shouldnt be wheeling it to the point that you are risking a rollover....

you must sacrifice i need to go wheeling right now and beat my truck to hell versus, i need to be able to drive to work the next day.....

PoorCollegeCrawler [OP]

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