Author Topic: toyota service tool for steering knuckle shims  (Read 4841 times)

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BoG-ToY

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toyota service tool for steering knuckle shims
« on: May 07, 2007, 09:42:08 PM »
what the title says, Im wanting to see if anyone has the tool to set this up,  either sell it.....or let me barrow with a decent deposit
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

dieselsmoke

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Re: toyota service tool for steering knuckle shims
« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2007, 04:57:53 AM »
are you wanting a tool to check the bearing preload ? The easy way to do that is to install all the shim gaskets and use a fish scale to pull the knuckle around you want 15# remove gaskets to increase load. hope this helps

*ROKTOY*

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Re: toyota service tool for steering knuckle shims
« Reply #2 on: May 08, 2007, 06:05:39 AM »
You can buy a new one from http://toyota.spx.com/grpsrt.aspx?g=22 for about $125 delivered. The part number is 09634-60013.

BoG-ToY [OP]

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Re: toyota service tool for steering knuckle shims
« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2007, 07:01:46 AM »
yeah, thats a little spendy for a one time use type thing........ I guess that might need to be what I do.........just start building axles for peoples.....
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

4x4redneck83

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Re: toyota service tool for steering knuckle shims
« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2007, 07:21:01 AM »
Here is the part number and price for a knuckle pull scale from MC
MC-17101, Knuckle Pull Scale, $9.99

howdy

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Re: toyota service tool for steering knuckle shims
« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2007, 10:03:48 AM »
where are you loctaed?

BoG-ToY [OP]

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Re: toyota service tool for steering knuckle shims
« Reply #6 on: May 08, 2007, 06:14:44 PM »
located on EGLIN AFB florida 32547

GUYS JUST WANTED TO MAKE SURE EVERYONE KNOWS, I DONT NEED A SCALE< I NEED THE ITEM THAT SETS THE HEIGHT OF THE KNUCKLE SO THAT YOUR NOT BURNING UP SEALS.
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

BoG-ToY [OP]

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Re: toyota service tool for steering knuckle shims
« Reply #7 on: May 08, 2007, 06:22:49 PM »
basically this is a one time needed tool, Im only planning on doing this once......if it wasnt for me changine the bearings I wouldnt be doing this.....I would have kept the same shim beneath and adjusted the upper shim for preload.....
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

BoG-ToY [OP]

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Re: toyota service tool for steering knuckle shims
« Reply #8 on: May 08, 2007, 06:23:21 PM »
shoot, Im gonna be running marlins new seals, so it might not even be that critical....
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

79coyotefrg

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Re: toyota service tool for steering knuckle shims
« Reply #9 on: May 08, 2007, 07:18:24 PM »
if you are using Marlins knuckle rebuild kit  put 1 thick and 1 thin  on both the steering arm  and bottom cap,  it should give you slight resistance,  if you have the same shims  top and bottom your knuckle IS  centered  on the axle
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BoG-ToY [OP]

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but is it centered with the seal???
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

jimbo74

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billybobf, it really sounds liek you are trying to overcomplicate things, and getting yourself all worked up
:usa:

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Wermz84

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I thought I was only going to ever do it once as well.   Now I'm going to be doing 3 more.  Redo my truck (4 years later) my new runner, and help my friend do his.  busy.   

good luck billybob.  :thumbs:
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yotaboy79

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its not that complicated nor is it that critical just get the preload on the bearings right and youl be golden

BoG-ToY [OP]

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would be willing to place a doposit of 135 bucks through paypal (to a well established paypal user or well esablished marlin crawler forum member) when you get your tool back you refund me 125 bucks only paying fees on the 10 bucks you keep for shipping, I would think you could ship it in a priority mail flat rate envelope at 4.05 and I would pay the return shipping. youd make a couple bucks and help out a guy in need
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

jimbo74

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is it a tool you can rent through napa or autozone or kragens or any of those places?
:usa:

The cost of freedom is always high, but Americans have always paid it. And one path we shall never choose, and that is the path of surrender, or submission.

~ John F. Kennedy ~

dieselsmoke

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the best thing to do is to replace the worn bushing that goes in the spindle. They are on marlin's site, if the birf. is centered than the axle will be as well. Also as long as you are using the same knuckles if you keep track of any shims under the races and reinstall them in the same locations I would say set the preload and let her eat.
The axle was already set up from toyota, that and the awesome new seals that marlin came up with, you should be alright. Personally I still have to build my axles, I'm going with e-lockers F & R  yukon 4:88's, 30 spline longs. I have all my parts now comes the fun part, I went with new everything, cause new works good, I even went to toyota to get new ring gear bolt lock tabs, so basicly when I put my axle together everything will be replaced. Don't make the job any harder than it has to be, Also I went with the ifs hubs so I could put the wheel spacers between the hub and rotor, with landcruiser vented rotors and V6 calipers. I didn't want the spacer between the wheel and hub, but thats just me, Good luck

BoG-ToY [OP]

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I already have the wheel spacers, cuz they were really cheap through a sale I found.....next up, I needed to be able to build the axle.....all but the break calipers.......so I went ahead and used the SFA hubs......... Problem being is what if there is a difference between the old knuckle bearings and the new ones? and the new races? I figured I would have to reset this, I got the axle dissasembled with no shims, dont know what bearing caps go left or right, obviously the knuckles will tell me which one is left or right. but I DO NOT KNOW the original setup for this axle........
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

 
 
 
 
 

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