Author Topic: Will a V6 third dropout go into a 4 cyl truck? (Read 4240 times)

Yota Up · « **on:** Apr 24, 2007, 07:30:56 PM »

A guy I know has a 3rd dropout with the gearing(and LSD) that I need.
However, it came out of a V6 style nonABS housing. "The stronger 4 pinion" kind?

My truck is an 85 with the rear axle from an IFS. The rear is what we're going for here...

Anyway - he says I should have the 8" ring gear, and that if I do - I'm ok.

Here it is - what do you think?

dirtchicken · « **Reply #1 on:** Apr 24, 2007, 07:32:30 PM »

If it's an 8" ring gear it will work. LSD differentials are worthless once the clutch packs in them burn up.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #2 on:** Apr 24, 2007, 07:34:57 PM »

yes it will bolt right in, but roll it over and take a pic from the other side,

also the carrier looks like a regular open v6 carrier

Yota Up · « **Reply #3 on:** Apr 24, 2007, 07:47:01 PM »

So - how much do you think I should pay?

I'm hurting REAL bad for some 4:88's. Been looking for anything, really. Open would do, 4cycl, whatever. I just need to be able to go 4wheelin with this thing already!

So, unless someone else has one for sale, how much should I pay for this thing?

Thank you very much for helping me out here.

dime · « **Reply #4 on:** Apr 24, 2007, 08:25:04 PM »

i paid 300 for one with a lockrite and 529s yukons but it was a 4 cylinder not sure what a v6 is worth

jimbo74 · « **Reply #5 on:** Apr 24, 2007, 08:31:07 PM »

v6 is worth more than a 4cyl diff...... the v6 diff will drop into a 4cyl housing with no issue

Yota Up · « **Reply #6 on:** Apr 24, 2007, 08:38:41 PM »

You think it's worth $100 more than the 4 cyl? I think that's what I'd be looking to pay here - $400.

Painful, but I gotta wheel. Real killer is I just talked to a guy that sold a V6 4:88 (open) for $100-$150. I didn't even want to confirm that he took 100, so I'll let myself think it was 150...

Oh what to do. Don't have much time either, but you guys are a great help.

I'll be checking back here every half hour or so. Hopefully make a decision tonight on this.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #7 on:** Apr 24, 2007, 08:49:08 PM »

i dont think i would want to pay that much for it, but if you really wnat to wheel, then you need to do what you need to do.....

i spent $500 on my truck..... complete but a littel beat up with no engine

Yota Up · « **Reply #8 on:** Apr 24, 2007, 09:12:09 PM »

Crap - not only 400, but add 60 shipping to that for a total of $460!

I'm almost at the $650 for a spooled one from Marlin, and I could drive there and pick it up myself.

What to do?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #9 on:** Apr 24, 2007, 09:13:55 PM »

Quote from: Yota Up on Apr 24, 2007, 09:12:09 PM

Crap - not only 400, but add 60 shipping to that for a total of $460!

I'm almost at the $650 for a spooled one from Marlin, and I could drive there and pick it up myself.

What to do?

at that point, i would just get a warrantied and professionally setup spool from marlin....

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #10 on:** Apr 24, 2007, 10:37:12 PM »

He's asking too much

My rear diff blew up and it cost me $437 warrantied and professionally set up with brand new gears out the door.

I'd just go with marlin's or find something cheaper

Yota Up · « **Reply #11 on:** Apr 25, 2007, 11:09:20 AM »

Gonna sell my 33s and 31s and buy this, I think. Damn, I feel like I'm being had, but the truck must wheel.

Marlin · « **Reply #12 on:** Apr 26, 2007, 10:17:06 PM »

Yoda Up,
What you have is a factory 4.88 diff from a V6 automatic pickup or 4 runner that has a special cast iron housing to accept the special factory gear set.
If the ring and pinion fails, it is only avaiable from the Toyota factory for around $600.00.

To make a higher gear ratio, the gear cutter must cut fewer teeth on the pinion, and more teeth on the ring gear. This results in a smaller pinion head and a thicker ring gear. However, instead of making a new thicker ring gear forging, Toyota chose to simply move the pinion location in the cast iron housing closer to the ring gear.

This is a great idea because it reduces the weight of the ring gear, but the replacement gear (with a thin style ring gear forging), can only be bought from the factory.
The common replacement 4.88 gear or any other ratio will not fit.

Marlin

BigMike · « **Reply #13 on:** Apr 27, 2007, 11:34:40 PM »

Wow Marlin, I never knew this

fullthrottle · « **Reply #14 on:** Apr 28, 2007, 04:20:08 AM »

Marlin, you are a toyota encyclopedia. MARLIN

Yota Up · « **Reply #15 on:** Apr 28, 2007, 11:04:14 AM »

Thanks for the info there, Marlin.

How you doing by the way? Hope all is well.
Incase you forgot - I'm the guy that bought an HD tranny from you a while back, and when I needed to get lunch - you let me borrow your 4runner. I washed it before I brought it back.

Next time the wife and I head to Kings Canyon, we'll bring ya'll some brownies.

Marlin · « **Reply #16 on:** Apr 29, 2007, 09:46:18 AM »

Thanks for the reply, and I trust the "H/D" is still spinning.....

We are all hanging in there and working just as hard as we can.
I have been working on learning my Solid Works program and new products in-between shop needs.
I have a great group of guys and we all get along great.
Tuesday morning, my wife and I will be leaving to go to Cruise Moab.
Just got back early this morning after driving my truck with Big Mike from the Tin Benders Johnston Valley clean up run.
It is 6 hours one way and we had a great time.

Did you ever get the diff?
Before you install it, using one hand to hold the diff housing and pinion from turning, place your other hand on the ring gear/carrier assembly and carefully rotate it backwards and forwards so as to feel the backlash in the gearset. Make a mental note as to the feel and then remove the 12mm head bolt and locking tag on the ring gear side cap only, and by using a hammer with a dull drift, proceed to rotate the adjusting wheel clockwise untill it tightens up. Do not unloosen the 17mm bearing cap bolts.
You will probably turn the wheel 2 to 3 notches which will preload the carrier and tighten up the backlash. This will prolong the life of the gearset. You do not need to beat up the adjuster wheel or overtighten the carrier bearings. You will know when the excessive end play is removed and the wheel stops turning.
You will then notice that the backlash will be much less [it must have at least .005"] and then rotate the pinion to make sure it still spins free in both directions.
Dont foget to install the retainer clip and bolt.

Let us know when you are heading this way again, so I can take you out to dinner....

Marlin

Yota Up · « **Reply #17 on:** Apr 30, 2007, 10:37:18 PM »

Right on Marlin.

That's definately something I would not have done on my own. I'm printing the page because I'm sure I'll have to read it again when I get the diff(it's in the mail).

Thanks again, for everything. We'll surely see you soon.

olemisstoy88 · « **Reply #18 on:** May 01, 2007, 06:57:31 AM »

me and abuddy pick a complete front ifs and rear chunk for 500 the other day with 4.88s out of a v6. just lookout for the sensor hole on the top of the rear chunk. fill it with weld.

Yota Up · « **Reply #19 on:** May 01, 2007, 04:38:33 PM »

olemisstoy88 - I'll be sure to look for that when it arrives. And while it hurts to hear stories of better deals, the truth is I don't have the luxury of a huge network of friends - and it hurts a lot more to not be able to wheel it. Congrats on your deal.

Now I just need to get these shocks mounted and this baby will be bouncing off the rocks!

Ya'll are great. Thanks for everything. If any of you sees me out there, stop by and accept a cold one from me, will ya?

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