1st Gen. Toyota SAS (2wd to 4wd)In its new Parking Space

[inmyownsummerami]

If you remove and modify the crosmember one more time you could save your self from having to install a body lift. cut the crosmember so that it is in 3 pices.. center and each side, then put the ruber under your current mount instead of on top of it, mount each side under that and tack it together. Then weld it back up, and plate both sides. You will get what your wanting with no body lift, and still be stronger than the mount similar to yours that broke. Basically make it mount on top then bushing then crosmember, instead of the crosmember/ bushing / mount the way it is now.

I know its alot of work but I think it would be worth it for you, no matter how ready you are to wheel your own.  I( hope this makes sense. 

I get what you are saying, but if I did that the mount would still be up into the cab too much to mount the seats low enough. And as Hyena said "i would rather have a flat belly with a small body lift than no body lift and a low belly." Lifting the cab 2" will slightly raise the cog, but its a trade-off I'm willing to make so that I don't have to hack up the x-member, or cut a hole in the roof for head clearance.

[inmyownsummerami]

  it will also help clear the tires with a lower suspension lift.

But a sawzall will do the same thing

[Hyena]

you can only cut so much 

[Doof]

looking good so far...cant wait to see it done,  when do you think she'll be trail ready

[inmyownsummerami]

looking good so far...cant wait to see it done,  when do you think she'll be trail ready

I was shooting for memorial day. I could have it ready by then, but I dont't think I will, unless I half ass it, and I don't realy want to do that. I still have to get harnesses after I get my seats mounted, I need shocks, need to rebuild my rear axle, exhaust needs to be redone to clear t-case x-member, and a bunch of little .

[Twisted Minis]

Nice looking build.

What are you going to do with that bed?

[inmyownsummerami]

Nice looking build.

What are you going to do with that bed?

The bed is going back on. I took it off so that I could get to the rear susp. with out crawling in the dirt, and it makes a good storage area for all of the crap I have cut off the truck.

[inmyownsummerami]

The seats and body lift came today.
The seats are damned comfortable. They have some lumbar support, and they are firm with out being hard. The seats tilt almost all the way back, and tilt forward enough that they could probably be used in a 4seat 2 door. The sliders feel sturdy, and slide about 10".




  The body lift kit looks to be complete as far as containing all of the bits and pieces needed. Filler neck ext., all hardware, hose clamps, new fuel tank vent hose, bed support extensions, misc. brackets, and even locktite were included along with the body lift blocks.

[Hyena]

sweet, time to go to town on it.  i got my harness's today!

[jimbo74]

performance accessories.... is it to late to send it back and get a www.4crawler.com ultimate body lift?

[inmyownsummerami]

performance accessories.... is it to late to send it back and get a www.4crawler.com ultimate body lift?

Why? Looking at 4crawlers kit pricing + the other stuff that the Perf. Acc. kit came with, the 4crawler kit comes out to more.

[Doof]

I was shooting for memorial day. I could have it ready by then, but I dont't think I will, unless I half ass it, and I don't realy want to do that. I still have to get harnesses after I get my seats mounted, I need shocks, need to rebuild my rear axle, exhaust needs to be redone to clear t-case x-member, and a bunch of little .

good luck with all that

[inmyownsummerami]

It's been a while, but today I actually worked on the pile of parts in the backyard. My cousin came over to give me a hand and to get me motivated.
While I made plates to weld in between the frame and cross-member brackets my cousin got the rear spring hangers tacked on. We also got the rear springs in and used the stock shackles and shackle hangers along with the chevy shackles to see how the rear susp. would sit.





Using the stock shackle hanger to help determine how much the rear springs would squat didn't work out to well since they are so far forward.

We also chained the motor mounts

That was about it for the day, we are going to work on it again tomarrow.
I recieved my Harnesses today, only took about 36 hrs. to get them from summit. They are R.J.S. Latch Harnesses w/3"
straps.http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BOB%2D50502%2D16%2D23&N=
700+4294925234+4294839020+4294920121+400095+115&autoview=sku
They feel solid. They take a few seconds to strap in, but they will keep my skinny ass in the seat, and that is all I care about.


 
I learned a few things today.
  1. Harbor Freight 6-ton jack stands fit snug in a stock 14" wheel, giving the stand a larger more stable foot-print.
 
  And 2. ALWAYS verify that parts are correct when an order is recieved I recieved my seats almost a month ago, and only unwrapped one of them for test fitting so that I wouldn't get them both dirty. The night before last I unwrapped the other seat to put both in the truck and see how much space there would be between them. The second seat is cloth, and I ordered vinyl. So hopefully Hunsaker will send me the correct seat.

[inmyownsummerami]

      More progress today.
  We spent the first couple Hrs. building the front spring hanger. It took awhile because I was trying to get the wheelbase out to 110", without lifting anymore than needed to clear the steering.


Once the front susp. is finalized, the hanger will be cut off and spring tabs fully welded. The tabs will be cut to the radius of the spring eyes and gusseted.
 
Then we temporarily installed the front springs and housing to plan the front shackle hangers.


With the weight of the front end on the springs the shackle angle was too flat, so the shackle hangers will be moved back a little to get a better angle. The wedges and possibly one of the leafs will be removed.
 


We also lifted the truck up and put jack stands under the axles at approx. ride height with the truck resting on the springs to see how tall it would be, and set the tires in place.

Its a little higher than I wanted, with 26" under the frame below the doors, but it looks like we can lower it a little by recessing the shackle hanger into the frame a little, and remove a leaf. With the front springs moved so far forward, the rear eye is hardly under the frame rail, so recessing the shackle hanger into the frame is going to take some work.

[inmyownsummerami]

  And 2. ALWAYS verify that parts are correct when an order is received I recieved my seats almost a month ago, and only unwrapped one of them for test fitting so that I wouldn't get them both dirty. The night before last I unwrapped the other seat to put both in the truck and see how much space there would be between them. The second seat is cloth, and I ordered vinyl. So hopefully Hunsaker will send me the correct seat.

I called Hunsaker today, and they are going to send me the correct seat. They are going to schedule pick up of the incorrect seat after I receive the new one, so I don't need to do any thing except put the old seat in the box that the new one came in, and put the return label on it. Great customer service if you ask me.

[CrazyYota]

It's been a while, but today I actually worked on the pile of parts in the backyard. My cousin came over to give me a hand and to get me motivated.
While I made plates to weld in between the frame and cross-member brackets my cousin got the rear spring hangers tacked on. We also got the rear springs in and used the stock shackles and shackle hangers along with the chevy shackles to see how the rear susp. would sit.





Using the stock shackle hanger to help determine how much the rear springs would squat didn't work out to well since they are so far forward.

We also chained the motor mounts

That was about it for the day, we are going to work on it again tomarrow.
I recieved my Harnesses today, only took about 36 hrs. to get them from summit. They are R.J.S. Latch Harnesses w/3"
straps.http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BOB%2D50502%2D16%2D23&N=
700+4294925234+4294839020+4294920121+400095+115&autoview=sku
They feel solid. They take a few seconds to strap in, but they will keep my skinny ass in the seat, and that is all I care about.


 
I learned a few things today.
  1. Harbor Freight 6-ton jack stands fit snug in a stock 14" wheel, giving the stand a larger more stable foot-print.
 
  And 2. ALWAYS verify that parts are correct when an order is recieved I recieved my seats almost a month ago, and only unwrapped one of them for test fitting so that I wouldn't get them both dirty. The night before last I unwrapped the other seat to put both in the truck and see how much space there would be between them. The second seat is cloth, and I ordered vinyl. So hopefully Hunsaker will send me the correct seat.

I think the chevy shackles should be first then the stock toys.

[DTB]

those spring hangars are tits... nice work u get a gold star

[inmyownsummerami]

I think the chevy shackles should be first then the stock toys.

We did that just to get an idea of how much the springs would flatten out under weight and see how far back the rear spring eye would be, but the shackle mount is to far forward relative to how far back we welded the spring hanger. The spring won't even compress with it like that. I will be building some shackles once we get the front suspension done, and mount them to the rear crossmember that I welded in a few weeks ago.

[inmyownsummerami]

those spring hangars are tits... nice work u get a gold star

Yeah they are, but all I did was weld them together. I bought them from http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/

[CrazyYota]

I see

[inmyownsummerami]

More progress to report today. 
Last night I pulled the shafts out of the 2wd. 7.5" axle to compare the bearing ends to my 4wd 8". The mounting pattern, and bearings look the same. Hopefully I can use them when I get chromoly rear shafts, so that I can keep my stock rear shafts complete as spares. While I had the rear shafts out I also removed the brakes, since they were hard to turn because they were rusty from the axle standing on end for a few months.



This morning we reinstalled the front housing and springs. I took them out to bring to work so that I could make plates for clamping my springs with 5/8" cap-screws instead of using U-bolts. Then we threw the knuckles on and the tie-rod and drag-link to begin working on the steering.
With the axle moved so far forward I had to trim the body mount and core support to mount the steering box far enough forward. But after test fitting the box, and trimming the body mount a few times we figured it would be easier to just cut the mount off completely.



With the body mount out of the way, we clamped the box and a piece of 1/4" plate to the frame and tacked it in place for drilling the mounting holes.





I still need to make the inner plate, and get tubing for sleeving the holes.
Here's a shot of where the box will be mounted.



The body mount will be moved to the very front of the frame rail, and repaired where I notched it at first.



I have also been thinking about boat siding the cab, and possibly narrowing the entire bed to the width of the frame rails when I bob it to the back of the frame.



The red line is where the cut would be, just below the hinges, and the boat side would go down to the bottom of the frame rail meeting up with the belly skid.

[86bobbedtoy]

Looking good.

[Gittinit]

I've never seen a boatsided toy before, That would be cool, but lots of work.

[inmyownsummerami]

I've never seen a boatsided toy before, That would be cool, but lots of work.

I've seen a few started on pirate, but I can't remember seeing any finished. Most of the work will be doing the doors, since I will have 2 sets to do. It will all depend on how I get my seats mounted though.

[robrub00]

what type of plastic are you using  for the belly pan?   how much does it cost??

[inmyownsummerami]

what type of plastic are you using  for the belly pan?   how much does it cost??

UHMW, probably 3/4". I priced it out awhile ago but can't remember what it cost.

[inmyownsummerami]

Not much done this weekend.  Friday night I stayed out till about 2am. drinking, and had to be to work at 6am., so after work I slept a good part of Saturday. I did finally finish installing the egt., tach., fuel press., boost monitor and heads up display in my Dodge though.







Today I pulled out the 2wd rear and tossed in the 4wd rear, so for the first time ever its sitting on 2 6lug axles . I also bolted up the Iroks.





It looks like I'm going to need to get some spacers for the rear though, the tires are a little close to the frame and will probably rub when the susp. is twisted up.
I bet every one here is jealous of my clean organized work area.  :bull crap:





Somewhere behind that pile of boxes and random is the gate out of the junk yard my truck calls home

[inmyownsummerami]

I also removed the rear window. I wanted to keep the truck weather-tight, but the seats were hitting it. I'm thinking of doing something similar to what Infernal did with the bed cage coming through the rear window, and just skinning the top. Then I'll just get some Lexan and cut some holes for the tubes to go through.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=32251.0;attach=82083;image

[86bobbedtoy]

Have you decided if you are going to boat side it?  Build looks great alot of progress.  Im also doing a flat belly, thats why the motor was lifted 3".

[jimbo74]

are you going to cut the front spring hangars any? that sharp point out front will kill a slide angle and will get bashed up, and has the potential to seriosly injure someone