Author Topic: What is the weak link in an OEM Toyota hub? (Read 5758 times)

blackdiamond · « **on:** Jan 28, 2007, 11:02:50 AM »

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=467075

Toyota Hub Gear, Stock...................5,800
Toyota Hub Gear, Longfield Treated.......6,800
Toyota Hub Gear, Longfield 4340..........7,500

The above numbers are what Bobby Long tested as shown on the link above.

Does the stock OEM Toyota hub generally break first at the Hub Gear or the studs. I am wondering if a person should consider the Longfield Hub Gears or the FROR ARP hub studs as the 1st hub upgrade.

What size tires do most people have that break their hubs?

KYOTA · « **Reply #1 on:** Jan 28, 2007, 11:09:18 AM »

Do both but gears first. The hub gear and hub gear clutch will break and strip the splines on the birf, and they will break before studs will. I'm sure you already know this but if you have Longs cromo hub gears with his birfs he is now guaranteeing them, where as he will not guarantee the birfs on stock hub gears.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #2 on:** Jan 28, 2007, 11:24:36 AM »

Quote from: KYOTA on Jan 28, 2007, 11:09:18 AM

Do both but gears first. The hub gear and hub gear clutch will break and strip the splines on the birf, and they will break before studs will. I'm sure you already know this but if you have Longs cromo hub gears with his birfs he is now guaranteeing them, where as he will not guarantee the birfs on stock hub gears.

If the studs break will that cause any other damage? My reason for upgrading would only be to ensure that the longs are safe. I am not really worried about breaking the hubs, but it could happen.

KYOTA · « **Reply #3 on:** Jan 28, 2007, 11:26:23 AM »

buy the gears and the studs. I've never broken a stud but have broken hub gears (stock). Then got 30's, hub gears and ARP studs.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #4 on:** Jan 28, 2007, 11:52:54 AM »

What capacity do the stock studs have? Has Bobby tested this?

alwayzbroken · « **Reply #5 on:** Jan 28, 2007, 12:03:46 PM »

I have broken every stud off both sides at the same time with my Longfields and the birf was unscathed. I think the studs break first but I still plan on buying the longfield gears.

Birfailed · « **Reply #6 on:** Jan 28, 2007, 12:44:03 PM »

I was gonna get the stock hub gears cryo'ed to go with my longs. And see how those hold up. I'll be leaving stock studs in too. Next weak link in my drivetrain would become R&P.....alwayzbroken, got any pics of what the shearded studs look like? I've never blown the studs or hub gears, in fact my longs have 0 miles on em, and are sitting in my garage lol.

KYOTA · « **Reply #7 on:** Jan 28, 2007, 12:57:13 PM »

Quote from: alwayzbroken on Jan 28, 2007, 12:03:46 PM

I have broken every stud off both sides at the same time with my Longfields and the birf was unscathed. I think the studs break first but I still plan on buying the longfield gears.

so your saying you broke all 12 studs at the same time? I gotta hear this one

DTB · « **Reply #8 on:** Jan 28, 2007, 02:08:12 PM »

Quote from: KYOTA on Jan 28, 2007, 12:57:13 PM

so your saying you broke all 12 studs at the same time? I gotta hear this one

I've seen this kid first-hand....he is good at breaking stuff lol...hence the name

DTB · « **Reply #9 on:** Jan 28, 2007, 02:10:00 PM »

Quote from: blackdiamond on Jan 28, 2007, 11:24:36 AM

If the studs break will that cause any other damage? My reason for upgrading would only be to ensure that the longs are safe. I am not really worried about breaking the hubs, but it could happen.

the force will be transerred to the next weakest link which is the hubs.......bobby wont guarantee the longs unless u have the upgraded hubs as well

blackdiamond · « **Reply #10 on:** Jan 28, 2007, 02:47:29 PM »

Quote from: Dirt Toy Boy on Jan 28, 2007, 02:10:00 PM

the force will be transerred to the next weakest link which is the hubs.......bobby wont guarantee the longs unless u have the upgraded hubs as well

I know that the longs are not covered without the hub gear, but if I upgraded the hub gear and ran stock studs would anything other than the studs break? I'm assuming that if I upgraded the studs the weak link could probably the the front differential which is more difficult and expensive to repair.

I have seen gotrocks kill a front differential in Moab and I think it was with stock hubs.

KYOTA · « **Reply #11 on:** Jan 28, 2007, 03:30:27 PM »

thats a good question. Are people that are breaking studs also breaking the dowels in the hub body (not the lockout) and causing damage to the lockout?

Ramrod · « **Reply #12 on:** Jan 28, 2007, 06:56:50 PM »

on both sides that I broke the hub studs on it destroyed the hub body and wheel hub body because the pins gouged them out. I'll get pics. If you have the money i'd say get it all at once but if you dont you shouldnt have to worry about it at all

alwayzbroken · « **Reply #13 on:** Jan 29, 2007, 09:30:15 AM »

It broke all except one stud and dowel on the passenger side and all the drivers are gone. This is the passenger side. Buy the upgraded studs from Front Range, send your hub body off to Hendrix or you can try double nutting and impacting the studs down so they stay tight and don't explode. It is not that expensive to upgrade the studs and it will save you if you wheel hard. If you drive like a sally I wouldn't worry about. Just try to keep em tight.

alwayzbroken · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 29, 2007, 09:32:47 AM »

The dowels wasted the holes on the drivers but the hub was fine on the passenger side where the stud and dowel kept it from spinning too bad.

MiniSimp · « **Reply #15 on:** Jan 29, 2007, 09:34:36 AM »

Nice carnage!

alwayzbroken · « **Reply #16 on:** Jan 29, 2007, 09:35:57 AM »

Quote from: MiniSimp on Jan 29, 2007, 09:34:36 AM

Nice carnage!

Thanks

KYOTA · « **Reply #17 on:** Jan 29, 2007, 10:06:41 AM »

YEAH!!

blackdiamond · « **Reply #18 on:** Jan 29, 2007, 04:25:35 PM »

Quote from: alwayzbroken on Jan 29, 2007, 09:30:15 AM

It broke all except one stud and dowel on the passenger side and all the drivers are gone. This is the passenger side. Buy the upgraded studs from Front Range, send your hub body off to Hendrix or you can try double nutting and impacting the studs down so they stay tight and don't explode. It is not that expensive to upgrade the studs and it will save you if you wheel hard. If you drive like a sally I wouldn't worry about. Just try to keep em tight.

New driver rating: If you have not broken your hub studs you drive like a "sally!"

I resemble that remark!

alwayzbroken · « **Reply #19 on:** Jan 29, 2007, 05:02:07 PM »

Quote from: blackdiamond on Jan 29, 2007, 04:25:35 PM

New driver rating: If you have not broken your hub studs you drive like a "sally!"

Yes!

Gittinit · « **Reply #20 on:** Jan 29, 2007, 06:43:41 PM »

Quote from: blackdiamond on Jan 29, 2007, 04:25:35 PM

New driver rating: If you have not broken your hub studs you drive like a "sally!"

I resemble that remark!

Sally

alwayzbroken · « **Reply #21 on:** Feb 10, 2007, 08:29:37 PM »

I am thinking about getting drive flanges and adding 5/16" studs (since all mine are busted and need to be replaced) at the Xs and adding two extra dowel pins since the drive flange would make adding two dowel pins very easy. Also the drive flanges are 45$ each as opposed to 70$ for longfield hub gears and a would make upgrading the hubs a lot easier and cheaper.

Does anybody see any way to improve this idea or reason why it wouldn't work?

What is the difference in function between a dowel pin and a stud? What is the advantage in having dowels instead of just making it a 12 stud?

Thanks

Gittinit · « **Reply #22 on:** Feb 10, 2007, 08:37:17 PM »

Studs would shear long before dowl pins but you could do both. Add two extra studs and 4 pins. the extra studs might help keep it all tight. I think I'll be going with flanges too instead of the hubs, when I order longs.

alwayzbroken · « **Reply #23 on:** Feb 11, 2007, 12:47:55 AM »

I just realized that a 5/16" stud would be smaller than the stock 8mm stud. 3/8" would be the one size larger and is equal to 9.53mm.

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