Topic: How is your weber jetted/setup?

[kneedownnate]

Well, my 32/36 is running like poo and has several flat spots.  So lemme know which weber you have, how it's setup and what elevation you're at.

[rednk1980]

In my experience with my weber they are very touchy and even the slightest movement of anything in the carb can cause the thing to run like crap. I have a 32/36 with the factory jets is came with ( what they are) but im around 2000 ft and it runs fine once i hade it tuned.

[79coyotefrg]

mine had just recently  started having a flat spot  at around 3000 

when i get this Jimmy back together  i'll pull the carb  and see whats going on

[kneedownnate [OP]]

That's kinda where mine is too, but it's more of a huge hickup when I'm cruising on the freeway and try acclerating. 

And rednk, mine is the 32/36 dgav, so you really only wanna leave the jetting alone if you like the truck bucking and stumbling all over.

[rednk1980]

Just talked to my dad about the weber, it has a shallow float or something like of that sort that keeps more fuel in the bowl so on inclines and what not it doesn't flood out as bad. I think its called and off-road kit or something of the sort. Sorry it doesn't help you any though.

[kneedownnate [OP]]

Oh man, webers hate inclines.  I messed with my float level trying to make it better, but it only made a tiny bit of difference.  That's another reason I'm going to be switching back to a 22r carb after a while

[rednk1980]

I have to be the 1st person to ever say this but i HATE stock carbs to many vacume lines and i never got any of the ones i tried to run right. Stay with the weber and get the kit ill find the website and give you some info it makes a difference.

[kneedownnate [OP]]

Bump, I want some more input.  More people have to be running these carbs

[mudmaster]

32/36 whatever it came with for jets, don't know. I have had it on about 6 months on my 80 and one on my 83 for about 2 years. No problems with either. The one on the 80 I bought new, the 83's was used. I don't know if it was messed with or not I just tuned it and went wheelin.

[kneedownnate [OP]]

Mine's a 32/36 dgav, smog legal, and only a fool would wanna leave it jetted stock!  It'll pass smog, but buck and lurch all over until you get the revs up.

[Hilux92]

I am running the 32/36
. Primary fuel 35/air 60.
Secondry fuel 40/air 70
the rest is stock
ope this helps.

[TRHS1980]

I installed a brand new 32/36 dgev on my fresh hybrid motor. Definitely needs to be rejetted, but current setup seems to run fine when warm, but truck doesn't seem to have the power I anticipated. I'm still having a bit of trouble getting it tuned right, but as this is my first time playing with a carb I guess that's fairly normal. 

[kneedownnate [OP]]

I am running the 32/36
. Primary fuel 35/air 60.
Secondry fuel 40/air 70
the rest is stock
ope this helps.

And at what elevation do you live?  That sounds very lean to me, pretty close to stock for a dgav maybe.  I think I had it at 55 primary and 40 or 45 secondary when it ran better, but may have a 45 or 40 main right now.  Can't remember what air jets I'm running, don't think I played with them too much.

[Hilux92]

Sorry thats 140 primary and 142 secondry, airs are standard 165/170

[abnormaltoy]

There's a friend of mine on the Toyota bbs at orc.com he goes by the name of Yodta, his name is Scott. He has a pretty lengthy write up on his travails with the Weber. You might find some good info there.

[te51levin]

I thought I gave you the procedure a while ago...maybe not...but here it is anyway, in the order it should be done in (though there are probably many ways to skin this cat):

1) Idle jet: with engine HOT, choke disengaged, float level correct, valve lash correct, and ignition timing correct, set idle to desired speed via idle speed screw.  Slowly turn the idle mixture screw in or out until you find the fastest idle speed, or use a vacuum gauge to find the highest vacuum reading.  Adjust the idle speed screw if necessary to get your preferred idle RPM.  Adjust the mixture screw again if necessary to the highest speed and repeat the process until the idle is at your preferred speed.  Turn the idle mixture screw in (clockwise) about 1/4 turn and turn the idle speed up via the idle speed screw if it drops significantly.  Now shut off the engine and count the number of clockwise turns until the idle mixture screw is fully seated.  It should be 1 3/4 to 2 turns.  If it is less than that, your idle jet is too big, and if it is more than that, the idle jet is too small.  The idle jet also handles progression from idle to low speed, so it needs to be big enough to feed a little fuel to the progression holes right below the throttle plate as the throttle starts to open.

2) Primary main jet: choose the smallest size that will run smoothly at low engine speeds on the primary throttle.  This jet typically affects the range from right off idle to halfway through the RPM range that you encounter without getting into the secondary barrel.

3) Primary air corrector: chose the largest (larger = more air = leaner) size that will run smoothly through the higher engine speeds when on the primary barrel.  This jet allows air to emulsify the fuel (mixes it into a froth, more or less) as air velocity through the carb increases, so its influence is on the mixture as engine speed and airflow increase.  The main jet sets the base fuel delivery on that barrel, and the air corrector trims the fuel delivery at higher engine speeds.

At this point, the vehicle should be smooth and responsive on the primary barrel under any conditions.  Once the primary side is sorted you can address the secondary, but the primary side MUST be sorted first.  Also, there is an idle yet on the secondary barrel, but it doesn't do much and can typically be ignored.

4) Secondary main jet: choose the smallest* size that provides smooth performance as the secondary starts to open, and midway through the RPM band with the secondary barrel open.  This is a good time to start reading plugs to make sure you have a "correct" air/fuel ratio.  Going lean at WOT is usually not a good thing.

5) Secondary air corrector: choose the largest* size that provides smooth performance through the upper portion of the RPM range with the secondary throttle open.  Again, reading spark plug colors or borrowing a wideband oxygen sensor are good ideas to make sure you have the mixture correct.

* For safety, you may want to choose one step richer (one step larger main jet, one step smaller air corrector) than the leanest that run smoothly for the secondary side.  For durability, it's generally better to be a little rich than a little lean under WOT.

[kneedownnate [OP]]

I'll hafta get into it a little more this weekend.  I used to be able to cruise up miracle mile in 4th at 50-55 easy, the other day I was floored in 3rd going barely 50, no acceleration.  I'm starting to wonder if I got the timing chain a tooth off when I did the head.  I don't think the mikuni cam is big enough to cause the lopey idle that it has.  I just wanna get this thing sorted out and somewhat reliable again  

[te51levin]

I will drive down and put a Level III Dark Magick Wizard tune on it if you can find enough crap to gt that '86 driveable.

I forgot - the cam could have a serious impact on air/fuel ratios, so it might warrant a retune.  But you definaetly want to double-check cam and ignition timing as well as all the other variables before trying to jet the carbonator.

[Bass Man]

rednck1980, did you find out what a jet was yet??  I believe it is the port at which fuel is mixed with the air.  By going bigger, you increase the amount of fuel going into the intake.

There was a vaccum fix for webers that kept them from stalling going uphill...  It takes a lot of solder and a vaccum nipple...  I will try to find it.

[Bass Man]

Gary A. Eck from www.offroad.com says:

The problem is the fuel bowl is vented open to the air horn and raw gas pours into the carb throat going uphill, but not downhill. You have to seal that opening with ?Liquid Solder?. The fuel bowl is now sealed, but you have now created another problem: your fuel pump is now pressurizing the fuel bowl and forcing raw gas out the main jets. To solve this (while you have the carb apart to seal the fuel bowl opening) examine the external vent casting. I am talking about the vent connected by a rubber hose from the carb to the charcoal canister.



If you examine the air horn closely you will notice the casting for the vent goes under the air horn next to the opening you sealed previously. Use an 1/8 drill bit to drill from the air horn into the tube created by the casting. By doing this you have once again vented your fuel bowl, but the raw gas will not flow back into the throat of the carb.



Sorry to jack the thread, I thought this would be a good place to post the fix.

[Hilux92]

I have not had a issue with stalling on any inclines. My carbs float bowl faces the front of my truck.

[rednk1980]

I have not had a issue with stalling on any inclines. My carbs float bowl faces the front of my truck.

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