Topic: engine compression check

[trekker]

I cant find my manual so what is acceptable  compression on a 1981 22r
Mine are
#1-130
#2-150
#3-150
#4-150
Im losing some water and its not going into the oil, so I did a compression test and these seem nuber seem fine
to me
 

[Shamb]

#1 cylinder's a little low but not going to effect anything. My #4 is only around 120.. maybe and it runs perfectly fine. Sounds like you've got a water leak somewere, check the base of the water pump, lines/hoses and make sure its not leaking out of your radiator cap.

Does it overheat?

[trekker [OP]]

no overhaeting new radiator,cap,and thermostat

[Shamb]

my next suspect would be the water pump leaking or a line. mine leaks a tad bit out of the return line but not enough to effect anything.


If you've got a 50-50 or 60-40 mix in the radiator i'd imagine you should see some red or green (depending on what coolant your using) stains were ever its coming from.

[79coyotefrg]

did that #1 plug  look different then the rest??  ashy color??


does the exhaust smell sweet??

[Hyena]

do a leak-down test.  it is different then a compression test that will tell you if you have a leak in a specific cylinder.  I did both tests on my old 22r before i pulled it out.  it was 160, 160, 150, 140.  the 140 had a 75% leakdown over a certain period of second ( can't remember what it was)  my engine didn't run strong at all.  i numbered it down to either bad cylinder rings or bad valve sealing since there was no air coming out through the radiator and i wasn't losing water (so a head gasket was out of the question).  but we also didn't hear any air coming from the oil cap either so we really couldn't tell which one was leaking.

[olemisstoy88]

I had a water leak out of the hose that runs vertical to the engine. Its the hose that runs near the headers.  It was a pin hole leak that only dribbled when the motor got warmed up.  this might be a noob idea, though.

[kneedownnate]

The manuals list 122 or 125 as the rebuild point, so 130 is gettin close.  I'd pick up a toyota head gasket and bolts and pull it off and check things out.  While it's apart you may as well lap the valves and get as tight a seal as you can.  I was sketchy about doing it myself, but it's super simple and cheap, about $12-15 for the tool and lapping compound, and you can totally feel when it starts smoothing out or when you hit a rough spot.  Valve seals are super easy to do at the same time and pretty cheap.