Blackdiamond (Gup-C build-up)

Started by blackdiamond, October 09, 2006, 10:47:34 AM

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blackdiamond

It appears that the issue with my 4Runner is with the passenger rear corner.  I got the rear end on jack stands tonight with the driveshaft removed and if I spin the tires with the differential locked the sound I have been hearing is clearly coming from the passenger rear. I think the t-case, rear driveshaft, and differential are ok which is great news. My guess is that it is the brakes but could also be the bearing.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

I pulled the tire off, removed the drum, and put the tire back on so that I could spin it the same before and after.  The noise is still present on the passenger rear so there isn't much other than the wheel bearing that it could be.  I don't know the history on it and it's possible, I guess, that it's the original bearing.  I have no idea how long they normally last. 224,152 miles at the last fill.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

SqWADoosh

Quote from: blackdiamond on July 27, 2016, 08:51:36 PM
I pulled the tire off, removed the drum, and put the tire back on so that I could spin it the same before and after.  The noise is still present on the passenger rear so there isn't much other than the wheel bearing that it could be.  I don't know the history on it and it's possible, I guess, that it's the original bearing.  I have no idea how long they normally last. 224,152 miles at the last fill.

Have your wife spin it for you while you place your ear on the diff. Make sure it isn't that. Otherwise the bearing is an easy job.

blackdiamond

Quote from: SqWADoosh on July 27, 2016, 09:02:03 PM
Have your wife spin it for you while you place your ear on the diff. Make sure it isn't that. Otherwise the bearing is an easy job.


The noise seems to be very much on one side so I am pretty sure it's the bearing.  My plan is to have my mechanic confirm my diagnosis and replace the bearing on both sides while also giving everything a much overdue inspection.  If he pulls the axle and everything looks perfect there he can move on to pulling the 3rd.  He hasn't had his hands on my 4Runner in several years.  It's due for a little TLC from someone that knows what they are doing.  I'll probably give him the oil I have ready for the next oil change and just be done with it.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

If things go as planned the 4Runner will return home tomorrow. Hopefully my mechanic gives it a clean bill of health other than axle bearings.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

The 4Runner is ready to be picked up. Both rear axles bearings were bad with the passenger side farther down the path to destruction. Sounds like everything else was more maintenance related.  The brake system was flushed which went from brown to green to clear.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

In other news, I accepted a "lateral transfer" at work that will completely change my job. I currently deal with structural incremental maintenance to keep submarines certified to dive. My new job will be cutting up the old submarines. Very little professional overlap and very few familiar faces so hopefully it will be "new and exciting" since I have been becoming less enthused about my current job. This is the first significant change in 15 years. Not much more to say about that.

Will report on the 4Runner after driving it home.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

I thought I had posted a report, but it seems to have gone missing.  The 4Runner is very very quiet with the new rear axle bearings.  They were clearly making a lot of noise.  I suspect the BFGs were masking the noise and then with the traction bar, new exhaust, and new tires all happening about the same time I didn't recognize the noise as it's own beast.  Ignoring the reasonable tire noise, I think the 4Runner may be more quiet than my 2008 Civic that sits much closer to the ground and lacks sound dampening.  It's almost unbelievable how much different the new bearings made.  I have not been this happy after visiting the mechanic in a long time.  I was curious to see what noises were left after the repair and it's pretty much just tires.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

I was able to get the 4Runner up to highway speeds and it was interesting to hear different vibrations come and go at different speeds. Lots of new things to hear and feel now that the axle bearings are no longer overshadowing everything. I am looking forward to wheeling next weekend.

I got my mud flap bolt retapped at the next size today so it's no longer hanging by a thread.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

I was looking at how much of a weight reduction I could get from an alloy wheel compared to my steel wheels and it was more significant than I remembered. I noticed a performance loss with my new tires that are around 6 lbs heavier.  It looks like I could easily drop almost double that with an alloy wheel.

I generally prefer the look of black wheels so how bad with a black alloy wheel look with scratches compared to a steel wheel?

I know one of my wheels is a bit out of shape and they are slightly rusted, but they definitely don't need to be replaced. Just a want...
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

Quote from: blackdiamond on August 01, 2016, 03:49:40 PM
In other news, I accepted a "lateral transfer" at work that will completely change my job. I currently deal with structural incremental maintenance to keep submarines certified to dive. My new job will be cutting up the old submarines. Very little professional overlap and very few familiar faces so hopefully it will be "new and exciting" since I have been becoming less enthused about my current job. This is the first significant change in 15 years. Not much more to say about that.

Will report on the 4Runner after driving it home.

The lateral transfer has been an excellent change so far. The lady that I am replacing had her last day on Friday so it's all me starting tomorrow. The learning curve is steep,  it I am slowly picking it up. I have been working a little overtime (about 5 hours per week) which provides a little monthly bonus to the family budget. I think the OT may be regular enough to almost call it a raise, there seems to be no shortage of things to do.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

Quote from: blackdiamond on October 01, 2016, 04:34:34 PM
I was looking at how much of a weight reduction I could get from an alloy wheel compared to my steel wheels and it was more significant than I remembered. I noticed a performance loss with my new tires that are around 6 lbs heavier.  Ito looks like I could easily drop almost double that with an alloy wheel.

I generally prefer the look of black wheels so how bad with a black alloy wheel look with scratches compared to a steel wheel?

I know one of my wheels is a bit out of shape and they are slightly rusted, but they definitely don't need to be replaced. Just a want...

:slap: If it ain't broke why spend the money...
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

mudmaster

A bent steel wheel can be hammered back enough to seal. Something to think about........
Time to go wheelin!

blackdiamond

Quote from: mudmaster on October 03, 2016, 07:06:46 AM
A bent steel wheel can be hammered back enough to seal. Something to think about........

I think I talked myself out of making any changes with the wheels since I won't really be solving a real problem it really wouldn't be a good value for the dollar. Rob has been running his alloy wheels without any issues so I would have any major concerns for durability though steel does have its advantages.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

My wife was kind enough to allow me to order an unecessary upgrade to the 4Runner.  A short throw shifter is on the way.  I almost got one before the last Moab trip but opted to go with the traction bar instead.  This better not be the black hole for my cash that the traction bar was.  This should be about as simple to install as anything could be and I have pulled the shifter multiple times so I don't expect any issues.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

Mudder

When installing mine it was straight forward and I love having it and won't go back to stock.

Ritchie

Quote from: blackdiamond on January 07, 2017, 07:30:30 PM
My wife was kind enough to allow me to order an unecessary upgrade to the 4Runner.  A short throw shifter is on the way.  I almost got one before the last Moab trip but opted to go with the traction bar instead.  This better not be the black hole for my cash that the traction bar was.  This should be about as simple to install as anything could be and I have pulled the shifter multiple times so I don't expect any issues.

What issue(s) did you have with the traction bar and where did you purchase it?

Thanks.
'03 Step side Pre-runner, F/R 4WU 3 linked, F/R Diamond axles, F/R ARB's w/5.29's, F/R Fox 12" CO's, ShrockWorks front bumper, self made rear bumper, WARN M8000S w/ remote, 4.7 Inchworm Lefty, MC sliders that hold air & a bunch of other stuff.

blackdiamond

Quote from: Ritchie on January 08, 2017, 05:28:31 AM
What issue(s) did you have with the traction bar and where did you purchase it?

Thanks.


I am running the bolt-on Budbuilt traction bar and it works just fine now that it's installed, the install just proved to be a lot more than simply a bolt-on for me.

Some 4Runners  (it's typically a 4Runner issue) don't have enough clearance between the cross member that the front bracket bolts around so you have to drop the bracket and drill two holes through the cross member.  The bracket is pre-drilled for this scenario, but I don't really have the right tools to drill through the frame.  I was able to install the bracket to the differential myself and then had my local 4x4 shop get the bracket on the front installed.  We then discovered that the standard traction bar was too long.  I think the rotation in my rear differential and my rear springs played a role but it still didn't seem like there was anything outside the range the bar should be able to handle.  Bud indicated that my 4Runner was the first time this had happened that he was aware of.  He was great to work with and we had many emails and several phone calls getting things figure out.  He ended up fabricating a custom sized bracket at no additional charge and even covered the shipping both ways for both bars.  Before I could install the bar I had to get my exhaust relocated and the muffler shop discovered that my muffler was cracked and the cat was too rusty to reinstall.  In the end the project more than tripled in cost between the 4x4 shop work (my issue) and the exhaust work (just bad luck).

In the end I had chosen the traction bar over new tires because it was going to be less expensive, then the project ended up costing more than the tires would have.  Then to top things off I found out that my tires were more than ten years old and Discount Tire would no longer service them.  Because I drive it cross country to Moab on the highway I made a conservative safety decision to also get new tires so it wasn't a much more expensive season of upgrades than I had intended.

The traction bar seems to be functional off road, but it hasn't been a night and day improvement in capability.  The only downside is I can hear the shake thunking around from time to time.  No biggie.

Go back a couple pages on this thread and you can read the full saga...
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

The short throw shifter is scheduled for delivery on Thursday by COB.  I placed the order on Saturday night, it shipped on Tuesday (two business days), and should arrive on Thursday (four business day), and based on the tracking number Fed Ex has taken custody of the box.  I see nothing to complain about so far in this purchase experience.

In the end, I won't be able to do anything with it anyways as work is filling most of my time and I will be traveling to the east coast for the first part of next week to attend my uncles military retirement.  I figured after nearly 31 years of service I should be there.  I'm taking my 5-1/2 year old son and my dad will be meeting us there.  I figure it'll be a great "man" trip and should be a great opportunity for my son to learn a little bit about life.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

dbbowen

Quote from: blackdiamond on January 08, 2017, 08:24:40 AM

I am running the bolt-on Budbuilt traction bar and it works just fine now that it's installed, the install just proved to be a lot more than simply a bolt-on for me.

Some 4Runners  (it's typically a 4Runner issue) don't have enough clearance between the cross member that the front bracket bolts around so you have to drop the bracket and drill two holes through the cross member.  The bracket is pre-drilled for this scenario, but I don't really have the right tools to drill through the frame.  I was able to install the bracket to the differential myself and then had my local 4x4 shop get the bracket on the front installed.  We then discovered that the standard traction bar was too long.  I think the rotation in my rear differential and my rear springs played a role but it still didn't seem like there was anything outside the range the bar should be able to handle.  Bud indicated that my 4Runner was the first time this had happened that he was aware of.  He was great to work with and we had many emails and several phone calls getting things figure out.  He ended up fabricating a custom sized bracket at no additional charge and even covered the shipping both ways for both bars.  Before I could install the bar I had to get my exhaust relocated and the muffler shop discovered that my muffler was cracked and the cat was too rusty to reinstall.  In the end the project more than tripled in cost between the 4x4 shop work (my issue) and the exhaust work (just bad luck).

In the end I had chosen the traction bar over new tires because it was going to be less expensive, then the project ended up costing more than the tires would have.  Then to top things off I found out that my tires were more than ten years old and Discount Tire would no longer service them.  Because I drive it cross country to Moab on the highway I made a conservative safety decision to also get new tires so it wasn't a much more expensive season of upgrades than I had intended.

The traction bar seems to be functional off road, but it hasn't been a night and day improvement in capability.  The only downside is I can hear the shake thunking around from time to time.  No biggie.

Go back a couple pages on this thread and you can read the full saga...


This sounds like everything ive done with my truck so far lol jesus

blackdiamond

I installed the short throw shifter last night and took it for a short test drive today.  It definitely has a tight feel to it, probably similar to if I had just upgraded the plastic parts like I did on my 85.  I think I'll enjoy the quicker shift in the mountains going from 5th to 4th more than anywhere else.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

#651
After a few months (not a lot of miles) with the short shifter I'm wishing that I'd skipped this upgrade.  While it does make the shift throw very short and the shift itself very positive, I'm finding that after driving my 85 truck and now 89 4Runner for most of 15 years it's just throwing off the timing of my shifts.  With the automatic locking rear differential there's quite a bit of backlash which translates to an unnecessarily rough shift if I "bang" the gears and make use of the short throw.  I find that things are the smoothest when I just let the RPMs drop between shifts so there's no rush most of the time time.  Between the short throw shifter and the 1200 lb Marlin clutch I can get a very positive shift that would be ideal if I was into hill climbs that required me to maintain speed, or at the drag strip, but I simply don't enjoy it for regular use.  The other thing that I don't care for is because the shifter has less leverage I'm finding it more difficult to shift into first while still rolling.  It's not a big deal, just requires enough effort that I notice it.  I'm strongly considering purchasing the replacement seat for $12.49 and the socket for $7.49 and putting the OEM shifter back on.

If anyones interested in motivating me to go back to the OEM shifter feel free to make me a fair offer for my nearly new W56 short throw shifter (MCTM-4534).  It retails for $299.  If you were on the fence for getting one, here's your opportunity to get one discounted.  It's a quality made part that does exactly what it is advertised to do, short tight shifts.  It's just not my cup-o-tea.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

I have decided that even though I spent $300ish on my short throw shifter that's a very stupid reason to not switch back if I liked the OEM shifter better.  Once I put my eyes on the original shifter again, I think I know which box I stuffed it in, I will be ordering a new heavy duty seat and socket and switching it back.  The worst case scenario is that I realize that I do like the short throw shifter after all and I've spend another $20+ to find out.  This is a risk I'm willing to take.  I'm pretty sure I can sell the short throw shifter once it's confirmed as not what I want to run.

I really need to be more careful with any future upgrades.  The 4Runner doesn't get a lot of use these days and the shifter upgrade was unnecessary and ended up not being a good purchase for my taste.  My traction bar turned into an unnecessary money suck as well.  I'd be money ahead to have skipped both and I don't think I'd really have missed either one.

The lesson is that my 4Runner is pretty perfect for me as it is and I should just be happy.  I hadn't done anything to it for most of seven years and other than the tires the money I have spent on it hadn't been well spent.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

$33.09 and new shifter parts have been ordered.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

OVRAROK

What are you doing with short throw  :eyebrow:
Even the most primitive society, has an intimate respect for the insane.

blackdiamond

Quote from: ovrarok on April 02, 2017, 12:29:15 PM
What are you doing with short throw  :eyebrow:

Assuming that I end up sticking with the upgraded OEM shifter, am I working a fair deal with you for the short throw shifter?
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

Quote from: liveoak on April 03, 2017, 07:52:16 AM
I bought and then sold my short throw shifter as well for a lot of the same reasons you did.

It's nice to have the benefit of someone else's thinking on this since it seems odd to not be excited about it.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

Cheesemaker

I always wanted the short throw shifter.  I even got to drive one of the first trucks that got it before it went to the public at Marlin.  It was 4thewkn's rig, which is the same truck 88Pathy owns now.  It was nice to have short and precise shifts.  But is it really a needed item?  I can row thru the gears just fine with mine, and I bang the hell out of it when I launch off the lines at lights.  Especially with the R151f.  That shift between 1st and 2nd is like 1 second after launching off the line. 
Miss ya Dean (4THEWKN) & Kyle (KYOTA)!!

4THEWKN~9/17/2006  If it wasn't for you, I'd be driving something other than a Toyota!

My build up ~ project Kilchis! http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=32961.0
Zak's truck build ~ http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=64319.0;topicseen

Rockcrawlintoy

The toyota trans shift super smooth. People need to go drive an old SM465 to remember how bad it used to be lol .
Resident Jeep Guy
2007 JKU All Stock
ECV 7-11

blackdiamond

The OEM shifter is with new seat is installed.  It's pretty loose compared to the short throw shifter, but that's to be expected.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved