lower "opsoing " bearing holder....

[Phazertwo]

When you rebuild the nuckels on a yota solid axle you have to remove the stearing arm.  This also holds the top of the two aposing bearins in place.  On the bottom that is a pice simmiler to the stearing arm, only it has no stearing.  I lost it!!!!!!!!!!    However, i have a left over stearing arm form my highsteer setup.  Can i simply cut the "arm" part of it off?  Can you get these anywhere but a junk yard?

TIA

PZ

[Prismo]

Possibly Toyota. If they do sell them they will be big bucks. Go with a junkyard part, unless Marlin has a source

[Phazertwo]

well, i decied to just go for it and cut the arm off the the steering arm, and it worked for now, hopfully there will be no major porblem with it
PZ

[kyle_22r]

i don't think there'll be a problem.  pretty sure the kingpins are the same size between the arms and the lower caps, and the shims are the same so i think you'll be fine.

[Phazertwo]

well, that side started leeking gear lube, so i am thinking that i messed up the inner axles seal when i put it all back togahter  , but it seems to be working great.

thanks
PZ

[Phazertwo]

does anyone use RTV on thos shimes to help seal the nuckle?
PZ

[IronClad]

the inner axle seals are imposible to keep in good shape on toyota front ends  nothing to be really worried about.  and no do not put RTV on the shims !

[Phazertwo]

well, its leaking form the nuckle, how do i stop it?
PZ

[kyle_22r]

put in a new inner axle seal.  actually the shims determine where the axle shaft rides on the seal, and there's an SST to figure out exactly how many shims you need and where.  few people actually use them though...

[Phazertwo]

SST?  special service tool?

[BigMike]

Yup, the lower and upper kingpin caps, or knuckle caps are the same, minus the steering arm. They are interchangeable.

If you put silicon on the shims and the castle washers, you will change the preload on the knuckle, and then the gear oil would just leak out past the felts.

Get your inner axle seal replaced.

[Phazertwo]

how can i tell which shims to use and how many?

BTW thanks for all of the help!

PZ

[BigMike]

Usually you want to reuse the same shims that came out, and in the same positions..

I do not know the proper way to shim it, other than the fact that you want about 12-15 ft-lbs preload once they are retorqued.

[Phazertwo]

yeah thats about where I am... however, I forgot to mark the shims, so I know that I am off...
PZ

[kyle_22r]

give 1 thick and 1 thin shim under each steering arm/cap and see how that works.  that's how most came from the factory

[Phazertwo]

alright, i will give that a shot.  Just need to find more garage time!

Thanks for all of the great help!
PZ

[79coyotefrg]

like kyle said 1 thick and 1 thin, tighten down and feel  how the knuckle turns ,   turning by hand not the steering wheel,  also , do this with the tierod off ,  it should take a gentle pressure to turn ,  if more than say 8 pounds of force,  add a thin shim to the top,   if better but still tight, add a thin shim to the bottom, YOU MUST KEEP THE SHIMS AS CLOSE TO THE SAME AMOUNT TOP AND BOTTOM AS POSSIBLE


if 1thick and 1 thin is loose,  and it just flops around easily remove a thin shim from the bottom,  if better great  if needs more, remove the thin shim from the top

[79coyotefrg]

if using all new bearings  1 thick and 1 thin will probably be a touch tight but should loosen up okay