where to lock

[1kz]

for a daily driven rig,

i understand that the ideal is to have a selectable lockers front and rear like the ARB, but if you would choose other traction aiding device...how would you have them and why?

[MiniSimp]

Aussie Locker front and rear.
They are quite, dependable, and cheap.

[WHITE_TRASH]

Aussie front and weld the rear.  Simple, cheap and extremely effective.

[BUBBA]

yep id just weld the rear,but for a d/d if your concerned about tire wear I'd go with a aussie or detroit.

[blackdiamond]

I'm a bit more conservative than many on the board on this issue.

If you have unlimited funds and/or you drive your truck on the road a lot, selectable lockers are the best way to go; however, they are expensive and not always as dependable.

I drive my 85 a couple hundred miles (I ride the bus to work) a month so I don't have a problem driving with a auto locker in the rear (the hubs are out so the front doesn't matter on the street).  I am running 33 inch tires and 4.70 t-case gears so I have a Trutrac limited slip in the front to avoid breaking my stock birfields (so far so good).  If you have the cash and are planning upgrade your birfields (longfields with chromo inner axles) then I wouldn't worry about breaking them from having a full locker installed.  I have a detroit in the rear and it has treated me well, but I might try a spool (or welded) if I had it to do over because the surging that I get when it locks and unlocks gets old fast.

If I was building a late model truck that was going to be driven as a normal daily truck, I would want an ARB or Electrac lockers installed.

Just my 

[1kz]

would you think it's proper to lock the rear first before the front and not otherwise, will the terrain be of question?

Am i right to think that the front axles are generally weaker than the rear, this is why i thought it is better to lock the rear first.

[k20]

i used to have a welded centre in the front,couldnt steer.so i went for an air locker in the front,had alot of trouble breaking cv's.rear is welded,next plan is to go for a lsd in the front.

[blackdiamond]

would you think it's proper to lock the rear first before the front and not otherwise, will the terrain be of question?

Am i right to think that the front axles are generally weaker than the rear, this is why i thought it is better to lock the rear first.

In general rear axles/differentials are stronger than the fronts, Toy rears are nearly bullet proof under reasonable use.  Most people put the first locker in the rear, but I know a few people that run a single locker in the front.  You will notice that Jeeps tend to lift front tires so having a front locker would be more of a benefit for them than on Toys that usually lift rear tires.

If you want to eventually install lockers at both ends, save the money and do it all at once or you will get to pay setup costs twice on the front.

[Rocksurfer]

I ran detroit's in the rear and limiteds or detroit's in the front of my daily drivers and never really had any issues. The only time I had issues was driving in snow, had to be careful while turning or the rear would kick out, but as long as you are aware of it, they're ok.

[BLACKDOG]

Detroit in the rear, lockrite in the front. I do still have IFS, but that doesnt really matter for this question.   Pretty much the same as rocksurfer said, only issues are snow, but if you are aware of it, its ok   I'd definitely do the rear first, if you were to one at a time, I had my detroit in the rear for 2 years before I got my lockrite, and it helped out tremendously.  'Cause if you break your front (more likely than rear) at least you still have two wheels turning.

[nowhitefenders]

   I say if your truck is a daily driver then you want the ARB.  Mine is a daily driver, I have ARBs front and rear with no problems.  I did not want the problems the full time lockers posses as described in this thread.  If money is the issue, I think its better to wait and get the gears/lockers at the same time.  I see deals for the compressor/locker/install kits all the time.  As someone that has built up-then removed parts on my truck, I think its better to buy what you need the 1st time.  Just pick a plan for what you want, like seeing what works for others, and build your truck around that.  But since you were just asking for lockers, go ARB. 

[WideOpen]

Yup, arbs all the way. I used to have Aussie lockers font and rear. then i got tired of having to unlock a hub to be able to turn tight while in 4wd. Now with the arbs in both diffs i find that i don't need the front locked in all the time, so less chance for breakage.I've had arbs for years with no problems.Its also fun to run trails with them unlocked then show your buddies how much difference the flip of a switch can make!

[blackdiamond]

Its also fun to run trails with them unlocked then show your buddies how much difference the flip of a switch can make!

Indeed this would be fun, the other method is to take a stocker along and drag them around.  I have a detroit and limited slip so this is my only option.

[blackdiamond]

There is another recent thread on the board that BigMike explains that the electric locker is much stronger than the ARB and can be manually operated if the primary switch breaks, plus they can be obtained for less money.  This is an advertisement for his 

[CTENG in KS]

I like to lock in the bar parking lot, the supermarket parking lot, sometimes my driveway, especially the MALL parking lot.   

[1kz]

anybody has a source link or pics of how does a toyota locker looks like up close....internals perhaps

[nowhitefenders]

   1kz: Off the top of my head I could only think of a few....hope this helps.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/
http://67.122.16.97/carterman/4runner/mods/locker/
http://67.122.16.97/carterman/4runner/mods/locker/

[RHG]

Yup, arbs all the way. I used to have Aussie lockers font and rear. then i got tired of having to unlock a hub to be able to turn tight while in 4wd.

Twin stick would have fixed that problem. I am going to be running a welded rear with Aussie in the front and do a twin stick to get over the poor steering problem. Plus its funny watching peoples eyes get big when they crawl into a truck with 4 shifters.

[Ramrod]

twin sticks might sound like an answer to a problem but really alot of times 2wd is not going to get you anywhere, especially if your turning really hard.  I'd say just put an aussie up front and stop being a puss. and if your only going to do one locker at a time do the rear first, don't put a locker up front with big tires with stock birfs.

[All_Set]

Locking axles on a budget daily driver.

IMO  Lunchbox lock the rear.  Why, Cheap, and if driven on the street with light foot, won't tear up the tires much more than an open axle.  Detroit does have friendlier road characteristics, but @ almost twice the price.

Don't think of touching the front until you nut up for some super birfs.  With stock gearing/tires you *should* be able to get away with a locker up front though, but I'd still put one in the rear before the front.

[over_rev]

would you think it's proper to lock the rear first before the front and not otherwise, will the terrain be of question?

Am i right to think that the front axles are generally weaker than the rear, this is why i thought it is better to lock the rear first.

You are off to a GOOD start Lock the rear go play,Start to save up money and stregnthen that front axle IE: Longfields,chromo inners and Hysteer should keep you out from under it
    Youll have plenty of fun 3 Wheelin it for now,Trust me

[Willy Mammoth]

Yea man. my front locker didn't do me much good climbing the slabs while the front wheels were in the air. I do so like the ability to unlock them at will so I can turn tight around obstacles and on again when I need sure footing. If you can afford it go with ARB's or electric lockers, if not just lock up the rear till you get stronger birf's. I know I broke lots birfs when I ran welded in the front and a locker up front will be the same cause it will only unlock if one wheel coasts faster than the driven wheel. It is the binding that will break birf's when power can't escape to the wheel with less traction.