Removing rear spring packs

Started by germ, August 31, 2005, 08:08:45 AM

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germ

August 31, 2005, 08:08:45 AM
Hey all,

Got 90% of my rear taken apart last night, but having some difficulty getting the forward bolts out. On the drivers side, the muffler is in the way (which I can sort of work around), but on the passenger side, the gas tank is in the way. Anyone have any tricks to get those bolts out without dropping the tank? Also, any thoughts about getting them out except a  :hammerhead: BFH?

Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated.

Erik :usa:
* Regardless of what happens, someone will find a way to take it too seriously.
* 2% rule: Must be 2% smarter than what your working on.
* If you make something even a fool can use, only a fool will use it.
* I've been crapping in the woods longer than lil'buddy has been alive!

19801981

#1
August 31, 2005, 08:18:43 AM
yea silly  just use 3/4 wrench vs socket then use a cheisel by bumping it between the outer piece lift the piece outward some then use a claw hammer r just lube it up and if youve got it loose u can pull it the rest the way by twist and pull the same time let me know how it gos

CTENG in KS

#2
August 31, 2005, 08:49:23 AM
I used the sawzall...cut between the spring and the hanger on the inside and outside...spring just falls out.   :flamer:
IFS is best kept at ambient temperature in a pile of scrap in the backyard.  When kept under a functioning vehicle, it tends to greatly diminish said vehicle's offroad ability.     -reklund5

4Runner: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4580.0
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germ

#3
August 31, 2005, 09:02:49 AM
QuoteI used the sawzall...cut between the spring and the hanger on the inside and outside...spring just falls out

I was kinda thinking about using the bolts again.....

Erik :usa:
* Regardless of what happens, someone will find a way to take it too seriously.
* 2% rule: Must be 2% smarter than what your working on.
* If you make something even a fool can use, only a fool will use it.
* I've been crapping in the woods longer than lil'buddy has been alive!

CTENG in KS

#4
August 31, 2005, 10:38:43 AM
Good luck with that...Doesn't seem worth it for $3.00 worth of hardware.
IFS is best kept at ambient temperature in a pile of scrap in the backyard.  When kept under a functioning vehicle, it tends to greatly diminish said vehicle's offroad ability.     -reklund5

4Runner: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4580.0
Beastmaster: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=34339.0

seanc

#5
August 31, 2005, 11:07:50 AM
on several toyota's i have worked on the rear spring bolts always tend to be a really hassle to get out. so... out comes the  :flamer:
You win some, you lose some.

MiniSimp

#6
August 31, 2005, 11:10:05 AM
You should replace the bolts anyways, so sawzall those off.
If you need to, remove the gas tank, I think it is only 12 bolts including the skid plate.

19801981

#7
August 31, 2005, 11:57:27 AM
wow you guys like more work if the rear is loose already the bolts will move easy with just prying about 5 secs then turn twist

CTENG in KS

#8
August 31, 2005, 12:10:56 PM
Nice though, too bad my bolts had bent inside the sleeves...those babies weren't coming out without some persuasion!   :_order:
IFS is best kept at ambient temperature in a pile of scrap in the backyard.  When kept under a functioning vehicle, it tends to greatly diminish said vehicle's offroad ability.     -reklund5

4Runner: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4580.0
Beastmaster: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=34339.0

MiniSimp

#9
August 31, 2005, 12:47:49 PM
Quote from: 19801981 on August 31, 2005, 11:57:27 AM
wow you guys like more work if the rear is loose already the bolts will move easy with just prying about 5 secs then turn twist
Mine had become one with the bushings. They weren't moving with out the use of a BFH from the inside.

RHG

#10
August 31, 2005, 11:24:24 PM
Yeah its a good idea to replace them like mini said. Even in good old california those things will rust and turn to crap being stuck in the rubber. What would be better? Stainless or grade 8?? Grade 8 has a coating on it thats supposed to resist rust and corrosion right? Straighten me out here. Sorry for the hijack but this could be beneficial to anyones suspension rebuild.
Only the dead have seen the end of war - Plato

89 Ext Cab Long Bed, SAS'd, Double 2.28's, 5.29's, 38" TSL's, Allied Beadlocks, Half Doors, Custom Trail Bodywork

seanc

#11
September 01, 2005, 12:44:53 AM
every piece of suspension, brake hardware, and even seat mounts in my truck are grade 8. why risk your life on cheap bolts?
You win some, you lose some.

MiniSimp

#12
September 01, 2005, 07:12:15 AM
Quote from: rocks hurt good on August 31, 2005, 11:24:24 PM
What would be better? Stainless or grade 8??
Every bolt I have replaced so far has been Grade 8, I never go below that unless I want the bolts to shear before what it is holding.

fellowsped

#13
September 01, 2005, 09:07:13 AM
whenever i take any bolt out of my truck before i put it back in i will cover that thing in tons of antisieze. works great for me
remember no matter how bad life gets there's always beer.

money is for rich people

85 toyota p/u, lincoln locker rear, debating on lincoln locker front, 22r desmoged, 31 bfg a/t (worn out but came with truck), the plan; 35 super swamper boggers, duel t-cases, buggy leafs, crossover steering, internal roolcage, rocker bars, a winch, and a few other little things.

Rocksurfer

#14
September 01, 2005, 01:55:32 PM
 :headscratch: I've never had any trouble taking a spring off my trucks, except for my Sammi, that thing was rusted on.
The Ghost-Rider/Ghost Runner

No matter how far you fall, the ground will always catch you

eddyb

#15
September 01, 2005, 04:12:54 PM
Sawzall on tank side and grinder on driver side.  Took a ton of sawzall blades though, And think god I don't have a swear jar.
A bad day of wheelin' is better than a good day at work
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