Author Topic: Marlin's 3RZ Conversion (Read 97180 times)

TacoRunner · « **Reply #150 on:** Jun 19, 2009, 01:19:49 PM »

here you go honey. Hope this is what you were looking for, remember to wear a sweater when it gets cold.

TacoRunner · « **Reply #151 on:** Jun 19, 2009, 01:21:07 PM »

One more

potter85 · « **Reply #152 on:** Jun 19, 2009, 05:22:38 PM »

man that thing is the

i see you got the colum and x member and it looks like the heatercore and fan
definatley going this route now

*ROKTOY* · « **Reply #153 on:** Jun 19, 2009, 05:30:29 PM »

Looks better when it looks stock, IMO. Guess I like the sleeper look.

TacoRunner · « **Reply #154 on:** Jun 19, 2009, 07:32:54 PM »

I was fortunate enough to have a Taco as a donor truck. So I took everything from it and shoved it into the 4Runner. Completley gutted the runner. Not even the dash crossbar was left from the Runner.

potter85 · « **Reply #155 on:** Jun 19, 2009, 09:11:35 PM »

yeah my donor truck is a 98 fourunner 5 spd with a 3rz.

did you cut the crossbar out and weld it in?

THK Matt · « **Reply #156 on:** Jun 19, 2009, 11:41:56 PM »

those are bolt-in IIRC

Thanks for the pics TR

TacoRunner · « **Reply #157 on:** Jun 20, 2009, 10:48:16 PM »

Yes I welded mine in. At that time I sucked at fab work so it was easier to just weld it in than build a bracket.

hilux-1983 · « **Reply #158 on:** Jul 24, 2010, 12:57:01 AM »

DTMRWC · « **Reply #159 on:** Jul 28, 2010, 09:09:15 PM »

That dash looks awesome

keep up the good work!

snowcat · « **Reply #160 on:** Jul 28, 2010, 09:38:09 PM »

Sweet deal Big Mike. Glad you finally got the okay to do it. Maybe one day Nathan and I will get the okay to spring my dad's '66 Landcruiser over the axles....

BigMike · « **Reply #161 on:** Jul 29, 2010, 07:38:15 AM »

Hey Dr

Yeah, his truck is running really, really great

Just work on your dad's truck during his next vacation!

rumentrocar · « **Reply #162 on:** Jun 06, 2011, 06:15:34 AM »

I have a few questions about your welder and OBA set up. I'm looking to do the exact same thing in my 3RZ '98 Tacoma.

Welder:
Are you running two alternators? Is the modified GM alternator the only alternator?

If it's the only alternator, how did you modify it? Is it similar to all the other GM weldernators I've found? Are you running an external regulator for system charging?

Do you have a wiring diagram for it?

Do you have any more info on the pulley mod?

OBA:
Any CAD or sketches of the bracket? It looks like the base mounts between the PS pump and the block. Also, it looks amazing.

Did you have to reroute your PS hoses or modify the upper connector to fit the York.

This setup is awesome. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

rcbro · « **Reply #163 on:** Apr 16, 2012, 08:57:46 PM »

Quote from: BigMike on Aug 04, 2005, 11:02:15 PM

Next-next Monday when I return, the first line of work will be eliminating the ol' Carb ECU system completely from the truck. I remember doing it on my truck and I traced every wire, and carefully removed and traced each circuit one by one, and then to find out, all of the wires needed to be removed anyways, so I just ended up pulling the whole ecu. So I imagine it will be the same here, and Marlin's truck definately has less circuits than mine, also considering that my rig had the rare '81 "Sensor" lamp.

That's it for today. Stay tuned for the next update Aug 15th!

BigMike

Mike,
Did you end up pulling the entire ECU and its wiring? Would help me out alot if the answer is yes, because I won't worry about tracing much lol.

weaselman · « **Reply #164 on:** Jan 07, 2014, 10:32:01 PM »

holy old threads batman.

BUT THIS IS AMAZING!

I plan on doing this to my 87. and throwing a turbo in there.

Datsun 720 · « **Reply #165 on:** Feb 25, 2014, 08:14:57 AM »

Big mike-
I found this thread online in my quest to find a replacement for a 22r in my Datsun 720.
It has bad rings. I could hone it and re-ring. But that doesn't fix the grotesque under power issue. Especially running 37's and stock 4.10 gears.
Well the 3rz from all my research is the way I want to go. I have experience in motor swaps, I've put a 22r in my Datsun, and a 20r into a Izuzu amigo and also a pickup. With several different types of ignitions. A Chevy hei and also with a stock igniter. So I am no noobie when it come to wiring. But the 3rz wiring harness into a carbureted truck has me concerned.
So what wires did you connect into in the carb'd truck? Was it just simple, power for his ground for that, ignition, kinda stuff. Really my concern is that I have all the essentials already in my truck to make this swap possible.

Please if you still have any of that info on the wiring to upload, please post it.

Nation · « **Reply #166 on:** Feb 25, 2014, 10:06:45 AM »

Quote from: Datsun 720 on Feb 25, 2014, 08:14:57 AM

I found this thread online in my quest to find a replacement for a 22r in my Datsun 720.
But the 3rz wiring harness into a carbureted truck has me concerned.
So what wires did you connect into in the carb'd truck? Was it just simple, power for his ground for that, ignition, kinda stuff. Really my concern is that I have all the essentials already in my truck to make this swap possible.

Please if you still have any of that info on the wiring to upload, please post it.

Different year models of the 3RZ have different wiring needs. If you haven't already. Figure out which one you want and go from there. Here is some wiring info that may/may not help you. I went from a 22R to a 4 coil 3RZ. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=95785.0

Datsun 720 · « **Reply #167 on:** Feb 25, 2014, 04:14:58 PM »

That's what I'm trying to research now. Which ones cheaper? Which ones easier to find? Most power? Reliability? Most support as far as install... Things like that. I just stumbled on this thread this morning. And it didn't take me long to see that this was the swap that was meant to be. I've been all over pirate and some other sites. But between mike and the others on here they have more info and knowledge then The rest of the internet. Props to them...
Now to find which 3RZ is for me.

Tungsten Slayer · « **Reply #168 on:** Feb 25, 2014, 04:37:07 PM »

2RZ's (142 hp and 160 ft. lbs. trq) are the little brothers of the 3RZ (150 hp and 177 trq) @ 2.4 litre's they tend to be cheaper, don't have balance shafts because of a shorter stroke and are 8 hp less.

2RZ's come out of the 2 wheel drives and the 3's from the 4x4's.

Mounts for both can be purchased to make it a bolt in from the 22r/re if desired

but that's neither here nor there

Datsun 720 · « **Reply #169 on:** Feb 25, 2014, 05:01:07 PM »

I know I am going to go 3rz. Just don't if dizzy or coil pack is better as far as OBD-II concerns or longevity. I imagine dizzy easier to wire, and easier to maintain. Less sensors. But electronic coil is pretty simple once installed.

Datsun 720 · « **Reply #170 on:** Feb 25, 2014, 05:09:14 PM »

Haha nation, I read your forum before I had even signed up for this forum. Lots of great info in there. Already took notes down from ya...

Tungsten Slayer · « **Reply #171 on:** Feb 25, 2014, 05:16:02 PM »

Your just imagining things

. The dizzy models have 1 more sensor(IAT intake air temperature) than the non dizzy and you will probably want a new cap for the dizzy when you do the install which the later models do not have. Wiring is going to be a learning experience either way if you haven't wired one before. Good wiring diagrams are going to be needed either way.

Nation · « **Reply #172 on:** Feb 25, 2014, 06:49:08 PM »

Quote from: Tungsten Slayer on Feb 25, 2014, 04:37:07 PM

2RZ's (142 hp and 160 ft. lbs. trq) are the little brothers of the 3RZ (150 hp and 177 trq) @ 2.4 litre's they tend to be cheaper, don't have balance shafts because of a shorter stroke and are 8 hp less.

2RZ's come out of the 2 wheel drives and the 3's from the 4x4's.

Mounts for both can be purchased to make it a bolt in from the 22r/re if desired but that's neither here nor there

I used Chilkats Mount conversion and oil pan setup. Bolted right up and are of great quality. 4 Coil is what I put in. Best thing to do is Read up. There are little things to concider like the differences in the intake manifolds and the way the spark is distributed just to throw a few ideas at you.

Nation · « **Reply #173 on:** Feb 25, 2014, 06:52:32 PM »

If you need to smog it***** Like I do in cali. The later model 4 coil 3RZ require 2 catalytic converters. If you don't have em from a donor truck they'll be pretty expensive. Id say that the Dizzied 3RZ may be an over all cheaper swap....but I may be wrong..

BigMike · « **Reply #174 on:** Feb 26, 2014, 07:34:12 AM »

Quote from: Datsun 720 on Feb 25, 2014, 08:14:57 AM

Big mike-
I found this thread online in my quest to find a replacement for a 22r in my Datsun 720.
It has bad rings. I could hone it and re-ring. But that doesn't fix the grotesque under power issue.

Hello Datsun 720!

to

land

You will definitely be impressed with the 3RZ-FE. Look at this Dyno sheet comparing the difference between a tired fuel injected 22R-E and a distributor-type 3RZ-FE. The 3RZ-FE is already making nearly 40 more ft-lbs at the bottom end -- and from my experience the 22R & 22R-E were always praised for their bottom end grunt.

As for the wiring you'll be happy to know that 75% of the job is already done for you by Toyota. In this reply #5 I briefly discussed how the majority of the engine's electrical equipment runs straight to the ECU via one large harness, and all that is remaining to wire -- the only wiring that you'll have to do

-- are the gauges, ignition/starter, alternator, fuel pump, and battery. Technically speaking all you really need to wire in is the ignition, fuel pump, battery, and connect a few grounds (engine, opening circuit relay, clutch start cancel or automatic park/neutral switch) and it will fire up on it's own. The point being that it's a pretty self-contained system. I've replaced a few 22R-Es with 3RZ-FEs and the wiring from the 22R-E is much more complicated, ie. has two separate engine harnesses passing through opposing sides of the firewall, and generally just more going on that is not contained as is with the 3RZ-FE.

Of course this is a basic explanation, as you'll need to integrate your chassis's ignition ON with the engine's ignition ON circuits, integrate or eliminate the driver's side under the dash fuse box, and route wiring harnesses back for your O2 sensors/fuel pump, forward for the Igniter/AFM, give the ECU a brake signal, install a Check Engine light somewhere (unless the 720 already has one despite not being EFI?), wire in A/C clutch pulley to the foreign 720 chassis harness, or cruise control setups, if applicable, et cetera, remove unneeded circuits such as air bags, ABS, and shared fuse box circuits such as your headlights, horn, blinkers, brake lamp, radio, et cetera, but these are basic requirements no matter the conversion as you are well aware.

Quote from: Datsun 720 on Feb 25, 2014, 08:14:57 AM

Especially running 37's and stock 4.10 gears.

Man, 37" tires, 4.10:1 gearing, and a carbureted 22R. Coming from someone who has replaced a 22R with a 3RZ-FE, I just don't know how you do it!

Kudos to you however, no doubt you've got a lot of love and passion into your 22R and it's awesome that you even considered swapping that into your 720 to begin with $Beer Chug\'n$ Since the age of 2, I was raised on a 20R, then 22R, then 22MAR (22R block with 20R head). But as early on as 33" tires we already had 5.29:1 diff gearing!

Quote from: Datsun 720 on Feb 25, 2014, 08:14:57 AM

Was it just simple, power for his ground for that, ignition, kinda stuff.

Absolutely, except for two things I can quickly think of:
1) An electronic fuel pump. You don't have one of those, or at least not one that develops 40+ psi. For us Hilux guys it is easy to just remove the carbureted fuel tank and replace it with a 1985-1995 EFI fuel tank, which is almost a direct bolt-in deal, and also entails new high-pressure fuel hard-lines to be routed. I don't know anything about the 720 but I'd first look at later model Datsun's to see if there is a EFI fuel tank that nearly bolts in place of yours. There is the option of running an external, in-line electric fuel pump, and while I don't have experience with these, I much prefer to have the pump submerged in the tank so that it is protected & gains significant cooling from the surrounding liquid for much improved life expectancy. Also tanks are designed with recirculate bowls and baffles so that even on steep angles you will have fuel pressure. I'm not sure on the reliability of external pumps and steep inclines. Again, I don't have experience with them, but if the pick-up hose sucks air and the pump's displacement is interrupted, there goes the power needed to get outta that steep incline (I assume it takes much longer to re-prime itself given that -- being external -- it is a certain distance away from the liquid). I just feel that all modern fuel pumps are in-tank pumps for a reason, so that is how I wanted mine done. And if you can find a Datsun tank with integrated electronic pump than it's all the merrier.

2) I do not know if the 720 has an integrated vehicle speed sensor which is required for the 3RZ-FE. Us Hilux guys are fortunate that by 1979 Toyota was experimenting with "poor-man's EFI" systems where a temp sensor near the catalytic convertor would alter the fuel mixture at the carburetor. This was done based on the vehicle's speed and therefore all 1979-1989 carbureted Toyota trucks have an integrated vehicle speed sensor built right into the speedometer unit itself. So we keep our mechanical speedometer cable and are able to take a VSS signal from the instrument cluster and wire it up to the 3RZ-FE ECU. Without any prior experience with the 720, if push comes to shove with this then maybe you could get a dual speedometer drive adapter -- they are hard to find but I've seen them -- where the speedometer output on your transmission (or t/case; however Datsun does it) is split into two ports where you reattach your factory speedometer cable to one port and then *maybe* use our mechanical-to-electrical VSS adapter *if* Datsun happens to use the same 22x1.50mm thread diameter and pitch, or you can find an dual port adapter that does. Then you can retain your original mechanical speedo cable but also have a digital speed signal available for the 3RZ-FE.

Other than that I can't think of any thing that is too serious for the conversion. Be sure to get the fuel pump harness & O2 sensor harness (there are two O2 sensors), which are often forgotten about and it's very nice to have all the original plugs and looms to make the job a bit less painful. I also grabbed the interior Cowl/Dash harness, which isn't required, but it was nice to have many factory wires that I cut and used to keep all the original wire colors consistent.

Quote from: Datsun 720 on Feb 25, 2014, 08:14:57 AM

Please if you still have any of that info on the wiring to upload, please post it.

I know I made mention of this a few time during my swapping days but I never translated my notes to the computer and to try to think about it all now is futile. 4RnrRick and Nation have both posted the most amount of wiring info that I've seen (however I know 4RnrRick deleted his photos, and actually I'm not even sure where his swap thread is....

)

Quote from: Tungsten Slayer on Feb 25, 2014, 04:37:07 PM

...2RZ's (142 hp and 160 ft. lbs. trq) are the little brothers of the 3RZ (150 hp and 177 trq) ... 8 hp less.

2RZ-FE will be cheaper however Torque is king and it's near 20-lb ft less torque figure is a deal breaker for me.

Quote from: Nation on Feb 25, 2014, 06:52:32 PM

Id say that the Dizzied 3RZ may be an over all cheaper swap....but I may be wrong..

One very important convenience with the 1995-1997 single-coil 3RZ-FE is that it uses the same standard round charcoal canister that Toyota has used since at least 1979. My 1995 3RZ-FE has the same diameter charcoal canister as my 1987 MR2 and as my 1981 Hilux. I was able to mount the 3RZ-FE canister in the same exact factory 1981 location using my original 1981 canister bracket, plus finding a replacement is a piece of cake. If anyone is familiar with Toyota truck engines this side of 1997, then you'll know that they switched to a large rectangular canister that has additional vacuum lines and electric solenoids. What's worse is that on 2000+ 3RZ-FE's, the canister is no longer mounted in the engine compartment and must instead be mounted near the gas tank (for emissions testing/approval purposes -- which may not apply to you), meaning you have additional wire harnesses and vacuum lines that must be routed to the canister and it's solenoids way back at your gas tank. So dumb.

Ok I gotta run. Let me know what you think about all this and best of luck with your 3RZ-FE endeavors!

My 3RZ-FE powered full-bodied truck with camping gear in the bed vs. a 22R-E Formula Toyota Buggy. Enjoy.

Nation · « **Reply #175 on:** Feb 26, 2014, 10:37:49 AM »

Wooot woot!!

thats what happens

old runner · « **Reply #176 on:** Feb 26, 2014, 10:40:43 AM »

Thanks BigMike, that has got to be one of the most informative responses I have ever seen. It even answered a couple of my lingering questions.

Capt. Crawler · « **Reply #177 on:** Feb 27, 2014, 02:35:44 PM »

Good info. Will vss get ecu out of "limp" mode?
Thanks Nation and Big Mike for updates.

Nation · « **Reply #178 on:** Feb 27, 2014, 03:04:04 PM »

Hate to say it, but no. It should have nothing to do with it. I am throwing a VSS code right now... Im running pretty good.

Capt. Crawler · « **Reply #179 on:** Feb 27, 2014, 09:49:52 PM »

I'm running in limp mode and showing no codes?
My solution to vss is a 1992 to 93 toyota landcruiser cable to vss adapter I will need to hook up the cable vs:s to the e_c_u and then connect the instrument cluster to the vss to the e_c_u correct?

BigMike [OP]

BigMike [OP]

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